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Targets USA makes an inline plate rack using their Rhino plates. It's showed up at a few matches around the country so far. I have not shot one but am thinking of putting it into one of the tuesday night USPSA matches at Birchwood.
I never liked the tiny viewing port than the RMR has. For an RMR footprint, I'd take the Holosun 507c over the RMR anyday. The circle-dot reticle is also very cool, and destructive testing has shown it to be quite reliable.
If you guys are undoing the set screw on the TTI base pads, you're doing it wrong. It's factory-set to tight enough to stay in place but still movable without tools, allowing you to just move the blocking pin aside and then you can slide it off the mag body. Makes the TTI much superior in field cleaning, they're otherwise identical in operation.
I want to say it's less than a $100 typically... $70 maybe? But as already stated, unless it's a rusted heap you can't beat it, I have a 550 Pre B still chugging along. 1050 does most of my works these days but I still load all my rimmed ammo on the 550.
When you engage the safety it has to slide under this arm. but you want to go slow and take off the least amount of material. if you take too much off (leave a large gap) - when the safety is engaged and you pull the trigger the sear will travel until this arm contacts the safety = the trigger will travel. you can assemble everything with the slide off before you take any material off this arm and push the safety on and off to see where the safety needs to slide under this arm and you will understand it easily. edit: i see you are trying to fit the safety and not the sear - sorry
EAA was showing this particular model in their booth during this year's ShotShow and the rep I was talking to told me they will try to import this model as soon as this summer. Now that being said, how much of this is actually going to happen I have no idea but I am waiting to get my hands on one as soon as they are available.
For an open class gun, there is no comparison between a Czechmate and an Atlas. The Atlas has superior ergonomics (grip, safety, etc; the PT grips are insanely great). For contrast, the controls on the CM are bunched up on the left, and the slide racker rides far too low; people often run the CM charging handle on the right (a.k.a. wrong) side for this reason. The Atlas also shoots flatter. Both guns are extremely fast, and the CM trigger is probably the best non-1911 trigger I've ever shot, but here again the Atlas outshines: less travel to the wall. The CM magwell also leaves *a lot* to be desired (poorly blended with the frame); and even a CZ Custom magwell doesn't being to approach the quality, fit, and function of the Atlas magwell. Atlas customer service is superb. Oh, and the red dot mount on the CM is not nearly as reliable--I find the Atlas holds zero longer and better. (It's ~2 screws on the CM versus ~5 on the Chaos). One possible advantage of of the CM: mags are cheaper and probably require less tuning. Granted there is a 2X price difference between the guns. Depends on how serious you are about shooting open class
Do what steven t said. The slide will get stuck if the takedown lever isn't all the way in the most clockwise position. When the recoil assembly slips and dips down, it makes it impossible to turn the lever all the way to the locked position. All you have to do hold it straight/tilt it slightly up before/while turning the takedown lever. This happens on totally stock guide rods too.
I think people are talking about two different screws here. Some of us are referring to the Torx head screw that holds the mag release tab on. This is the one I had hell with. I think others are referring to the flat head screw on the opposite side of of the mag release tab.
There is a post on this somewhere, but you can simply grind off the bevel on the end of the guide rod and run it uncaptured. You can also try clipping a coil or two off his factory spring and see if there is any improvement. On a side note, I have 1000+ rounds thru my P10F OR and I’ve shot everything from hot 115’s to very weak 147’s, both new and remans and I’ve had zero malfunctions or failures of any kind. Also, you can try having him keep his slide locked back for a week or so while it sits in the safe or case.
The DAA racemaster can bind on the trigger guard of a revolver if it is twisted a bit during the draw. It is worse if it's a bit dirty, i used to clean mine with armor all periodically. In addition to cleaning it, the silicone in the armor all worked as a lubricant and significantly slicked up the holster.
I'm trying to help a new shooter buddy who bought a P10F as his first pistol. First range trip I brought a bunch of my ammo that is 134PF in my Shadow and they wouldn't cycle in his gun, after a couple of boxes of factory ammo my stuff would run but barely eject. Are there any options other than CGW for springs? I would order from them but they won't event talk to Canadians so I need to find a more common source of lighter springs. Also ok to simply alter the guide rod for spring replacement and run it uncaptured?
I’m confident it can handle it with no mods. I’ve been running 140+ PF ammo through mine for a year with no issues. Just work up slowly. I used to shoot 9 Major in my Czechmate in standard config (no comp) all the time. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
- John C
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