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Heres my problem with the rmr and dpp for work, it becomes a water collector when it rains lol From what i hear, the height, width and length are near identical to the rmr, just happens that the optic is enclosed. Yes it is ugly....like really ugly...but it is said to take a beating Sent from my SM-G935T using Tapatalk
CO setup acquired, will be testing and transitioning to in May. On a short vacation this week, going to probably shoot prod at my 1st Sunday home club match this month with the P10C and work on transitioning to a dot as the month goes on. Gen 5 Glock 34 MOS (Production is my backup division) Double Diamond Tungsten Guide Rod with 13 & 15lb springs to test TTI GM Spring & Connector kit 3x TTI +5/6 basepads Leupold DeltaPointPro Also bought a test batch of Fenix 124gr and 147gr "training" ammo. Going to see if I can feel a big enough difference between that and the Lawman 124 I usually run.
Just because someone has taken and passed the RO certification course/test doesn't make them a "Good" RO. ROing effectively is a practiced skill no different than shooting. You also need to understand that just like shooting, no matter how much someone "Wants" to get better, without the proper effort and dedication to actually get better you will still suck. RO's also need to accept the fact that they are expected to do the job competently and if they are not willing to do that then they shouldn't volunteer to do the job. Luckily I have only run into totally incompetent RO's a few times while attending major matches. In the first instance I made them call the Range Master, then explained the incompetence scenario to the RM and requested replacement RO's to be assigned to the stage. In that scenario the RM took over running the stage as the CRO while working with the existing RO's to not only show them the proper way of doing the job but also observe their issues first hand. The RO's for this stage were replaced later in the match. I can only assume that was done because they didn't "Get it" when the RM was babysitting them. In the second instance when the RM got to the stage and after explaining the situation he stated that there were no more RO's to replace the ones we already had. I told him that I was a certified CRO and asked if I could RO the remainder of the squad to show the RO's how it should be done. He agreed and it worked out for the rest of our squad and hopefully it was a good learning experience for the RO's. I am not sure what happened with that stage after my squad left but I was at least trying to be part of a solution to the problem instead of doing nothing but whining about it.
I was able to accomplish this as well, if you know how to drill and tap metal its a 30 min. job including filing down the old one. I (do not recommend) did not even remove it from the gun.
I do add a little oil here and there when it needs it but its usually not more than a single drop in key locations like the barrel hood, frame rails and guide rod. Through the years I have found the best lubrication package being a mixture of BE Slide Glide and Lucas Extreme Duty Oil. After I do a detailed clean on the gun and everything is dry I will put Slide Glide Standard on everything except for the trigger components. I will use Lucas Extreme Duty oil on the trigger components. Once I have everything put back together with only Slide Glide on the major components I will rack it a bunch of times to get it spread around really good. Then I will add a few drops of Lucas Extreme Duty oil to the frame rails, barrel hood, barrel and guide rod. Adding the oil to these areas eliminates the slight "Gummy" feeling of the slide glide and makes it feel like it only has oil on it when racking it. But this combination of slide glide and oil helps everything stay put and produce very good lubrication for much longer than oil alone. The slide glide also serves as a physical barrier on all of the internal metal surfaces to keep the burnt powder from building up excessively. When I clean my guns I use a plastic safe electronics component aerosol spray that easily and quickly breaks down the oil and slide glide along with cleaning off all of the burned powder. No excessive scrubbing needed. I never do "Field Strip" cleans on my guns for a partial cleaning/lubing. To me that is a waste of time. Any time I clean my gun I do a full detailed disassembly, cleaning, inspection, and relube. I can usually hammer that out in less than 20 Minutes which is not much of a time investment if you are shooting 1500 - 2000 rounds between cleans. The longest I ever went between cleans on one of my 2011 Limited guns was 10,000 rounds. During that time all I did was add a few drops of oil when needed and kept shooting it. Even at 10,000 rounds it was still functioning with 100% reliability. When I cleaned it up most everything looked good without excessive wear. The extractor tunnel was packed with crap though and I am not sure how much longer it would have run before I would have started having extraction issues. From my experience with 2011's the number one component that is sensitive to being dirty or contaminated is the extractor tunnel. That is usually the first thing to cause problems when you shoot a bunch of ammo through a gun between cleans. How "Dirty" your powder is also plays a big roll in how long you can go between cleans.
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Hi Chet, the 9mm TSO is designed specifically towards competitive "practical shooting" i.e. 3-gun, Steel Challenge, USPSA matches, etc. If I read between the lines of your posts, it seems like you are primarily target shooting at static paper and you are most interested in the absolute most accurate pistol possible. The majority of users here on the BrianEnos forums focus on practical shooting competitions where accuracy is important, but other factors are far more critical. Virtually any quality gun produced today is "accurate enough" for USPSA, but things like followup shots, reloads, etc are far more critical. The TSO and Range Officer will likely have a very similar trigger. The RO might even be a little bit better as a 1911, however both will be very light, very short, single action triggers and it will really be about preference. Accuracy will be similar although again, the RO might be a little better. However, compared to the RO, the TSO will offer much faster follow up shots, faster reloads, triple the magazine capacity, and less perceived recoil. If you are after the most accurate hammer-fired 9mm steel frame pistol, you would probably be better off looking at the "AccuShadow" or "Shadow 2 Accu" from www.czcustom.com. They are both custom tuned pistols with a barrel bushing, are DA/SA, and will have fantastic triggers with polished internals. Either of them would probably be more accurate than a stock TSO, and they would use the same magazines as your 75B. For the TSO, you would need all new mags. Another option outside of CZ would be the Sig P210 Target. It is an SAO target pistol and reported to be highly accurate, but I've never shot one so I can't say for sure. Any pistol with a red dot optic will be more accurate at distance than iron sights. Especially with a small red dot (1-3 MOA). You just have to decide whether you prefer optics or iron sights.
If by Sig 17 you mean the M17, it is ready for the DeltaPoint Pro which seems good for competition (large window, but somewhat awkward brightness changes that are no big deal on the range). Most reports suggest the DPP is second in reliability to the RMR.
Actually it can be done, just email them (can't remember who specifically handles it though) and they will set you up by email and pay on line. At least in December I renewed that way.
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