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  2. What combo ended up working with Winchester primers? I am going to load some this week and have to clean and work my daa. When I first tried mine out of the box Winchester primers did not work at all with both plates
  3. My buddy has one of the 4" models (I forget which one) and is a dealer for them (it's an Israeli thing). I was able to put a couple of rounds thru it and he has shot it at the local Sunday night match. It's a very nice pistol with little to no work needed out of the box for an average shooter. As per the OP, I have no dog in the fight at all.
  4. Hello with the V2 and the Sellier Bellot primers no upside down I was already doing as Saul recommends it takes a certain amount in the bowl so that the filling of the tube is quick.
  5. Today
  6. The weight is often wildly inaccurate in 1911s especially when they list the 45 as having the same weight as the 9. With a rail I bet its overweight out of the box. They make the same gun without a rail which is what Id get or just the regular range officer which has a single sided safety for a bit less weight. Even then it might be tight but going to a GI rod and plug can cut a little weight too.
  7. https://nextlevelarms.com/product/9mm-speed-brake/ These guys do some M13.5 x 1LH for the MPX and also make an taper adapter for SIG's tapered barrels. Don't know much about the Competition version MPX. All mine are GEN II pistols that are SBR's
  8. LOL Reminds me of when I put the GG kit in my post recall build X5, I know I spent 45 minutes or more looking for the lift spring on the kitchen floor until I called Sig CS to order one, that's when I found out they are not in post recall builds.
  9. Really? This is a serious question not a negative comment on your post. You have no experience or data on this gun whose introduction looks worse than Dillon's release of the 1100. The class is largely custom or semi-custom 2011's. They are projected to be cheaper than the name brand and custom builder 2011's but I would be amazed if a factory production gun is better than those 2011's. At best the jury on that is still way out. At this time it's only a baseless comment that is unlikely to be true. If turns out to be true it will certainly help to reduce the price of high quality Limited guns.Right now it's nothing but an over hyped, unreleased dream. I own 3 Shadow 2's I shoot in Production. I like them, otherwise I would shoot something else. But I'd never shoot one in Limited where the custom 2011's are king. There is no comparison. Maybe this DW will be different, but I would not assume that right now.
  10. plenty of companies make bulk 147 gr ammo thats decent velocity without overkill, you can get alot cheaper than that federal stuff. Go to ammo seak and do a search for brass cased 147, pay attention to shipping charges though some pad snot out of it. LAX, Targetsportsusa, S&G are allpretty good suppliers
  11. Hooked, I know the last few primers out the collator sometimes do not go. But that was not really viewed as an issue, as the intention was to keep running the collator with primers in it – never running it empty. For best performance, load 300 primers and add 100 for each 100 you feed out. so you are always working in the 200-300 quantity in the bowl. That way output speeds are maximized. If you do have to empty the bowl completely, the last few may be slow to get out. often a primer will need another primer to ride up behind it to tap it through the slot (at the kink point), which is why when the bowl is empty some primers may remain in the disk going round and round. New primers loaded into the bowl will push them out. Saul
  12. Hi Longhill, you should not need to shim those primers. we tested extensively with Fiocchi primers. try a little dry lube in the bowl.
  13. I went to a CZ SP01 shadow for a year then bought the Shadow 2. I always hated both guns but thought I would eventually come around. The gun shoots great it's just everything else that's a problem for me.
  14. HI Balakay I do believe the product is well engineered. In fact, I really believe it’s an ingenious design, one for which I cannot take much personal credit. It is mostly the brain-child of one of my engineering team. However, I am most proud of its design and being able to realize it into a Product at the Price point we have. And while there are a dozen or so people with issues on this thread – and I do take that seriously (as you can see) we have just over 1,000 units out there being used! The majority of those users are using it successfully. More than a few have emailed us to say so, or have left positive reviews on the product page. Some issues do exist, and greatly depend on the brand of primers in use. But most have found that the use of a little dry lube, or Pledge type cleaner solves any function/output issues. Saul
  15. Hi ltdmastr, Yes, I assure you I am well aware that there are many kinds of plastics. I have been involved in plastic production for more than 20 years, since the days I used to work with BUL. We did not randomly choose the types of plastics used in the Primer Pro. In fact, there are three types of plastics being used in the product, and none of them were chosen for price consideration! They were all chosen in order to maximize performance and molding behaviors. These materials were chosen in consultations with our mould and plastics supplier, based on our requirements for tolerances and accuracy and warping issues. Are there other types of plastic we could try? Yes, for sure. slickness of the plastic was never a main requirement as this issue was not identified early on, as previously explained. We may look into experimenting with other plastics now, but I am doubtful the solution will ever be possible without using a cleaner/dry film protection layer. A tacky wet/sticky primer is always going to stick to some degree or another, it would seem, and in combination with its very light weight, this is an issue. and issue solved by some cleaner applied from time to time. Machining these parts from any kind of plastic or aluminum is no option. costs aside, the design does not lend itself to machining, due to sharp inner corners and lack of tool access in some places. Saul
  16. Did you try to apply a plastic cleaner or dry lube in the disk? that seems to have solved the issue of primers not exiting the disk for every customer I had direct contact with about this issue! Have you tried this solution?
  17. I'm a believer. I avoided interest in 1911/2011 for several years because of the cost of custom guns. Boy was I wrong.I wasted a lot of fun time. I agree with "addicting". Those who point out that the capital cost of the gun itself is peanuts versus the ammo you'll run through it and the costs of matches you'll attend.BTW get two. You need a similar backup and practice gun. Maybe three.
  18. I've been running mine solid since I got it., over 25,000 primers through it. Outside of the first few thousand, it's been a new batch of primers every time I do it (the first few I just ran the same batch through over and over). I'll a tube, dump it into press, continue. I've cleaned and lubed it twice, and the second time was just to make a video of how I did it. I do not take apart the bowl and disk to clean. Takes maybe 5 minutes to do the whole thing. Since lubing it with Pledge the dust from the Ginex and Federal primers doesn't seem to stick like it did new. Or perhaps there was something left on the plastic from manufacturing that made that dust stick. I know my RF100 suffered worse from the mighty yellow dust than even the priming collator on my Revolution. Not sure why the aluminum there is so hard to clean (the RF100) but it is a pain. At least with the Primer Pro it just wipes off. As for the durability of the machine, so far with getting close to 30,000 primers through you can't even tell the machine has been run, the plastic doesn't look any different at all, no wear visible.
  19. Yes, you need to reload. Fast reloads are required to make M/GM.
  20. The question of "when is a reload the mandatory reload per WSB" would remain even with Comstock...
  21. Just an FYI for anyone attempting to remove the front sight ; on my X-Five Allround, the sight came out left to right and it was jammed in there TIGHT! Same with with another Allround, owned by a friend of mine. So there are Sigs with sights that come out left to right.
  22. Contact Dillon and asked them if you could return the unit for the RL1100. I did, they were also to accommodate my needs but my 1050 is barely 2 months old... doesn’t hurt to asked...
  23. This may seem obvious but - know the rules. Especially when it comes to rule infractions leading to a DQ, you may only see it for a split second and you'll have to call it right there and then. As a brand new RO, issuing a DQ may feel intimidating, especially if it's a veteran shooter. If you completely trust your knowledge of the rules you will be more confident in making the tough calls. Also - carry a printed out version of the rule book. Not because you don't know the rules but to show the shooter the rule if and when and argument arises.
  24. I’ve run about 5k CCI and 1k of S&B through mine. Haven’t had to make any adjustments since my initial set/tweaking. Have had 1 upside down primer so far. My only problem is that I can’t get the last 10 - 12 primers in the bowl to go down the feedramp. Have tried 150 Fiocci non-tox primers and they ran just as well as the CCI and the S&B. Small sample size I realize, but they seem to run ok.
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