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Corn cob, or Walnrt shells?


bball97

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The problem I have with coarse grade corn cob (sold at Wal-Mart as pet bedding) is that the pieces are big enough to get stuck inside 9mm cases. I end up having to inspect every case and usually need to use a small nail or pick to get stuck media out of at least one case.

Fine walnut (sold at Harbor Freight as blasting/tumbling media) is small enough, the only place it might get stuck is flash holes.

I'm curious to find some finer grade corn and use it mixed with fine walnut.

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  • 2 weeks later...

"I'm always careful to discard the used rice where birds won't eat it. "

Rice sounds like the way to go. Sounds like it will also help get rid of the pesky birds and varmints from the yard too! Thanks for the tip! :)

Edited by grizzlywon
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+1 for both !!!!! Just mix them up and let it shake .... Honestly does fast even come in to play? I can clean about 5 times faster than i can load them ... or at least before I get tired of loading them

I thought the same thing - and mixed 'em together, added some Dillon Polish and got dirty brass shiny in a couple of hours. :cheers:

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  • 4 weeks later...

I've tried most of the suggestions posted here and came up with the following solution that gives me like new brass in about 2 hours.

Lyman 1200 Tumbler

Walnut Parrot / Reptile Bedding from pet stores for initial cleaning.

Added used fabric softener sheets, Yep they do keep the dust way down, and static in the tumbler bowl as well.

Dillon Case Cleaner cut 50% with rubbing alcohol, add to media and tumble until mixed well.

I usually clean about 1000 9mm or 40 at a time.

Tumble the finished rounds in large corn cob, also purchased at pet store for about 20 minutes.

Finished ammo looks like new factory loads.

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Tried walnut, but it was too dusty for my tastes. I found that I liked corncob media. I bought a 50 lb bag at the feed store, but it was way too large in particle size and pieces got stuck in 9 mm cases. Then I hit on Grainger Supply. They sell it as blasting media in 40 lb bags for ~$20. It's small particle size, cleans well, and sifts out of the cases easily. I bought 3 bags and will probably have media into the next century. You might also check out Rooster Laboratories. You can find them on the internet. They private label package polishing compound for various companies. A 1 gallon jug will cost you $50 plus shipping.

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Tried walnut, but it was too dusty for my tastes. I found that I liked corncob media. I bought a 50 lb bag at the feed store, but it was way too large in particle size and pieces got stuck in 9 mm cases. Then I hit on Grainger Supply. They sell it as blasting media in 40 lb bags for ~$20. It's small particle size, cleans well, and sifts out of the cases easily. I bought 3 bags and will probably have media into the next century. You might also check out Rooster Laboratories. You can find them on the internet. They private label package polishing compound for various companies. A 1 gallon jug will cost you $50 plus shipping.

Hmmm last time I tried to get walnut OR corn at Grainger they said they were discontinued. That was earlier this year. Did you actually get some corn? Pass along the item # from their book and I will check again this week. Thanks

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Tried walnut, but it was too dusty for my tastes. I found that I liked corncob media. I bought a 50 lb bag at the feed store, but it was way too large in particle size and pieces got stuck in 9 mm cases. Then I hit on Grainger Supply. They sell it as blasting media in 40 lb bags for ~$20. It's small particle size, cleans well, and sifts out of the cases easily. I bought 3 bags and will probably have media into the next century. You might also check out Rooster Laboratories. You can find them on the internet. They private label package polishing compound for various companies. A 1 gallon jug will cost you $50 plus shipping.

Hmmm last time I tried to get walnut OR corn at Grainger they said they were discontinued. That was earlier this year. Did you actually get some corn? Pass along the item # from their book and I will check again this week. Thanks

Yes, I did. Grainger had a sale where they provided shipping for free, so I ordered 3 x 40 lb bags of ground corncob. I couldn't find my order info, but I looked in their online catalog and found:

Corn cob 425 micron item no. 2MVR5 $23.60. They also have a grade that is a bit larger in particle size at 600 microns, but I chose the smaller size and find it works well.

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^^^ Is that $22.72 delivered, for forty pounds (57 cents a pound) ?

When I last pestered Grainger about it, they said that I would have to still pay their shipping and handling charge even when I went to their St. Louis location to pick it up.

:wacko:

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I've used both, Walnut to clean and then Corncob to polish. However I recently

ran several batches using "Lemishine" and am quite happy with it. I pick up brass

from an outdoor range occasionally and it can be pretty nasty.

Lemishine is a granular material to help in dishwashers and can be found at Walmart.

I put 4 to 5 tablespoons of lemshine in a 5 gallon bucket but only a little over a gallon

of water. Also added a couple squirts of Dawn Dishwashing soap. NOTE: Added the

Dawn after mixing the Lemishine and water so as to keep it from sudsing up..

Then dumped in as much brass as I could as long as it was all covered with the mixture.

Let it set for a couple hours in the garage, stirring it a few times with a paint mixer stick.

When finished, I strained it thru a colander and hosed it off. Spread the brass out on

some newspapers in the driveway to dry in the sun. That did a great job and got the

gunk out of the inside of the brass as well as cleaning and shining up the outside.

This stuff did a much better job of cleaning the brass than any tumbling I have ever done!!

I did run it thru the tumbler with corncob and polish for about an hour to give it a

good "Spit Shine"... Probably didn't need that last step, however i'm kind of a perfectionist.

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Interesting, I'm going to take a look at that tomorrow. If it doesn't have any ammonia could be a great way to clean lots of brass in a hurry.

But you're right I would still tumble it before using but getting the inside super clean sure has its advantages.

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Some corn cob media and two hours in the tumbler is all I need. Keep the media changed out with some fresh stuff, let it do the work. Walnut has been worked great in the past for me, but the dust and the redish hew the brash comes out with was too much of a pain.

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looks like it's been said, but I will just re-enforce the opinions

Walnut to clean

Corn cob to polish

(the IOSSO brass polish for tumbling, is nice....so is Flitz, so is the Lyman stuff, so is car wax, so is cheap off the shelf grocery "brass polish")

I like to de-prime before my brass goes into the walnut, it seems to help the re-priming go faster and more consistent (but I use mixed head stamps most of the time)

I also have a little concoction that I came up with (while experimenting with tumbler medias)

1. Walnut shells (25 grit)

2. Ceramic/Carbide coated steel shot (the really really small stuff)

3. a tiny tiny tiny amount of 80 grit glass beads (has the consistency of sand).....but be really careful with the glass, it's an abrasive and will stick to your brass if there is ANY moisture in your mix (which can equal scratched up dies).....

4. Grocery Store "brass cleaner" (a few caps full)

5. cut up micro fiber cloth to absorb additional moisture and keep down the dust (seems to work better than cotton or dryer sheets)

start by blending all of those items and letting them tumble (WITH THE LID OFF) so all of the moisture is evaporated.....run your brass through, overnight.....then use a decent rotary media separator.....next use compressed air to blow off/out your cases.....

seems like total overkill, but my brass comes out BETTER than factory.....they look like jewels....does this help performance? doubt it, but it makes my cases easier to identify out at the range...and I put a black dot on the primers with a sharpie (that way I can give the guys carting away my brass sh@t) :roflol:

also I think I suffer from some kind of mild OCD...so I tend to be picky and obsessive/compulsive about my brass (with everything else)....

here are some results....seems a bit hard to see the black dot on the once fired primer, but it's there....

brasssmall1.jpg

brasssmall2.jpg

brasssmall3.jpg

Edited by AriM
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Grocery Store "brass cleaner" (a few caps full)

Does this Grocery Store "brass cleaner" contain amonia ?

If so you may want to do a little research on amonia and what effects it has on brass.

Just a thought.

no ammonia....but if it's an area of concern...use Flitz...my point was less about the brand of polish, more that you don't have to go buy some fancy cleaner that cost $2319487213905871234532 an ounce to get results....I can provide a picture and specific brand of what i use, but it's not that important...

also, not to be argumentative, but the effects of ammonia on brass are debatable....yes over time it will make it brittle....however, I am pretty specific about letting the tumbler run until all moisture has evaporated (with the lid off)....I do believe that if there was ammonia in the cleaning/polishing agent that it would evaporate...could be wrong, but I have thousands of cleanings/reloads using the method I describe.....and I have never had one single case fail on me or split, or show ANY signs of wear/brittleness (other than what can be expected from the extractor/ejector)....

on that note, I am using the EGW HD extractor now, which is slightly shorter than the original specification, and the way I have it set-up it leaves no claw marks or "moon like" prints on my cases....doesn't chew up the rims either...you could easily under-cut the stock extractor to do the same....also properly cutting and putting a radius on the inside, leading edge of the ejector will help keep your brass wear free.....

I know it defies common understanding to use once fired brass in competition, and I can totally see why....but I have fired thousands of rounds of range brass, of varying head stamps and varying conditions (mostly just affects OAL) with ZERO failures to feed or extract...not one case blow-out or ANY signs of excessive pressure or any ill effects on accuracy or anything else I can think of or mention....

maybe I'm a bit off topic, but my method seems to work very well for me....zero failures, no problems to speak of, clean brass, smile on my face while I am shooting....

I think the topic of ammonia making brass brittle is blow a bit out of proportion (pun?)....but if it makes you feel better, don't use a product on your brass that contains ammonia....to each his or her own...

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Tried walnut, but it was too dusty for my tastes. I found that I liked corncob media. I bought a 50 lb bag at the feed store, but it was way too large in particle size and pieces got stuck in 9 mm cases. Then I hit on Grainger Supply. They sell it as blasting media in 40 lb bags for ~$20. It's small particle size, cleans well, and sifts out of the cases easily. I bought 3 bags and will probably have media into the next century. You might also check out Rooster Laboratories. You can find them on the internet. They private label package polishing compound for various companies. A 1 gallon jug will cost you $50 plus shipping.

Hmmm last time I tried to get walnut OR corn at Grainger they said they were discontinued. That was earlier this year. Did you actually get some corn? Pass along the item # from their book and I will check again this week. Thanks

Yes, I did. Grainger had a sale where they provided shipping for free, so I ordered 3 x 40 lb bags of ground corncob. I couldn't find my order info, but I looked in their online catalog and found:

Corn cob 425 micron item no. 2MVR5 $23.60. They also have a grade that is a bit larger in particle size at 600 microns, but I chose the smaller size and find it works well.

Funny, I went by the Grainger store yesterday and they had the corn. I am trying to decide on which size to get. The walmart stuff hangs up in the separator because some of it is too big. So, which one? 18 or 30 sieve?

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I'd get the walnut. I use the walnut hulls or (lizard litter) from the pet store, for found range brass that is very dirty. I run it for a couple of hours in the walnut and then about an hour in the corncob media for a high shine. Necessary? No, but my brass sure looks "purdy".

I have used the Lizard Litter from Pet Smart for over 10 years. I just got a 25 Lb bag for OTD $21.06. I add a bottle cap of Dillon Polish on ever batch of brass I run. I only change media when it begins to looks black instead of goldern brown.

If I am processing range brass. I put them in a colander from Wal Mart. Shake like heck to remove all the dirt stuck inside the cases and If they are really dirty I wash them off with a garden hose while they are still in the colander. When they are dry I give them a once over to make sure I don't have any cases with rocks in them and no split cases.

I have used the same large Dillon polisher since 1992 :cheers:

I like to de-prime before my brass goes into the walnut, it seems to help the re-priming go faster and more consistent (but I use mixed head stamps most of the time)

I deprime after polishing, Double checking== no unwanted objects remain in the cae to cause problems being jamed in my XL650. A small rock lodged in your case when your running several hundred a hours causes production to come to halt until that case is cleared or maybe having to replace a decapping pin also.

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I'd get the walnut. I use the walnut hulls or (lizard litter) from the pet store, for found range brass that is very dirty. I run it for a couple of hours in the walnut and then about an hour in the corncob media for a high shine. Necessary? No, but my brass sure looks "purdy".

I have used the Lizard Litter from Pet Smart for over 10 years. I just got a 25 Lb bag for OTD $21.06. I add a bottle cap of Dillon Polish on ever batch of brass I run. I only change media when it begins to looks black instead of goldern brown.

If I am processing range brass. I put them in a colander from Wal Mart. Shake like heck to remove all the dirt stuck inside the cases and If they are really dirty I wash them off with a garden hose while they are still in the colander. When they are dry I give them a once over to make sure I don't have any cases with rocks in them and no split cases.

I have used the same large Dillon polisher since 1992 :cheers:

I like to de-prime before my brass goes into the walnut, it seems to help the re-priming go faster and more consistent (but I use mixed head stamps most of the time)

I deprime after polishing, Double checking== no unwanted objects remain in the cae to cause problems being jamed in my XL650. A small rock lodged in your case when your running several hundred a hours causes production to come to halt until that case is cleared or maybe having to replace a decapping pin also.

that's why I blow out my cases with compressed air after I tumble...also my redding resizing die is not going to break....have not had ONE single issue with a piece of walnut being stuck in the hole yet....also walnut can just as easily get stuck in the flash hole with the primer still in.....to each his own though

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looks like it's been said, but I will just re-enforce the opinions

Walnut to clean

Corn cob to polish

(the IOSSO brass polish for tumbling, is nice....so is Flitz, so is the Lyman stuff, so is car wax, so is cheap off the shelf grocery "brass polish")

I like to de-prime before my brass goes into the walnut, it seems to help the re-priming go faster and more consistent (but I use mixed head stamps most of the time)

I also have a little concoction that I came up with (while experimenting with tumbler medias)

1. Walnut shells (25 grit)

2. Ceramic/Carbide coated steel shot (the really really small stuff)

3. a tiny tiny tiny amount of 80 grit glass beads (has the consistency of sand).....but be really careful with the glass, it's an abrasive and will stick to your brass if there is ANY moisture in your mix (which can equal scratched up dies).....

4. Grocery Store "brass cleaner" (a few caps full)

5. cut up micro fiber cloth to absorb additional moisture and keep down the dust (seems to work better than cotton or dryer sheets)

start by blending all of those items and letting them tumble (WITH THE LID OFF) so all of the moisture is evaporated.....run your brass through, overnight.....then use a decent rotary media separator.....next use compressed air to blow off/out your cases.....

seems like total overkill, but my brass comes out BETTER than factory.....they look like jewels....does this help performance? doubt it, but it makes my cases easier to identify out at the range...and I put a black dot on the primers with a sharpie (that way I can give the guys carting away my brass sh@t) :roflol:

also I think I suffer from some kind of mild OCD...so I tend to be picky and obsessive/compulsive about my brass (with everything else)....

here are some results....seems a bit hard to see the black dot on the once fired primer, but it's there....

brasssmall1.jpg

brasssmall2.jpg

brasssmall3.jpg

Mine looks at least this good with a lot less hassle. Walnut for a few hours, Corn with nufinish for an hour or so, done. Depriming first is a huge waste of time for the loads we tend to make, not to mention not getting the most out of a good loader like the Dillons, and walnut does migrate into the flashhole much easier than if there was still a primer in it. I deprime and resize military brass before cleaning and it almost always gets a little walnut in the flashhole.

Running a tumbler all night is overkill if you keep clean, sharp media. If walnut takes more than an hour or two change it and you will be amazed at the difference.

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looks like it's been said, but I will just re-enforce the opinions

Walnut to clean

Corn cob to polish

(the IOSSO brass polish for tumbling, is nice....so is Flitz, so is the Lyman stuff, so is car wax, so is cheap off the shelf grocery "brass polish")

I like to de-prime before my brass goes into the walnut, it seems to help the re-priming go faster and more consistent (but I use mixed head stamps most of the time)

I also have a little concoction that I came up with (while experimenting with tumbler medias)

1. Walnut shells (25 grit)

2. Ceramic/Carbide coated steel shot (the really really small stuff)

3. a tiny tiny tiny amount of 80 grit glass beads (has the consistency of sand).....but be really careful with the glass, it's an abrasive and will stick to your brass if there is ANY moisture in your mix (which can equal scratched up dies).....

4. Grocery Store "brass cleaner" (a few caps full)

5. cut up micro fiber cloth to absorb additional moisture and keep down the dust (seems to work better than cotton or dryer sheets)

start by blending all of those items and letting them tumble (WITH THE LID OFF) so all of the moisture is evaporated.....run your brass through, overnight.....then use a decent rotary media separator.....next use compressed air to blow off/out your cases.....

seems like total overkill, but my brass comes out BETTER than factory.....they look like jewels....does this help performance? doubt it, but it makes my cases easier to identify out at the range...and I put a black dot on the primers with a sharpie (that way I can give the guys carting away my brass sh@t) :roflol:

also I think I suffer from some kind of mild OCD...so I tend to be picky and obsessive/compulsive about my brass (with everything else)....

here are some results....seems a bit hard to see the black dot on the once fired primer, but it's there....

brasssmall1.jpg

brasssmall2.jpg

brasssmall3.jpg

Mine looks at least this good with a lot less hassle. Walnut for a few hours, Corn with nufinish for an hour or so, done. Depriming first is a huge waste of time for the loads we tend to make, not to mention not getting the most out of a good loader like the Dillons, and walnut does migrate into the flashhole much easier than if there was still a primer in it. I deprime and resize military brass before cleaning and it almost always gets a little walnut in the flashhole.

Running a tumbler all night is overkill if you keep clean, sharp media. If walnut takes more than an hour or two change it and you will be amazed at the difference.

the inside of your cases look that clean??? I am calling that one man....let's see a pic

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Tried walnut, but it was too dusty for my tastes. I found that I liked corncob media. I bought a 50 lb bag at the feed store, but it was way too large in particle size and pieces got stuck in 9 mm cases. Then I hit on Grainger Supply. They sell it as blasting media in 40 lb bags for ~$20. It's small particle size, cleans well, and sifts out of the cases easily. I bought 3 bags and will probably have media into the next century. You might also check out Rooster Laboratories. You can find them on the internet. They private label package polishing compound for various companies. A 1 gallon jug will cost you $50 plus shipping.

Hmmm last time I tried to get walnut OR corn at Grainger they said they were discontinued. That was earlier this year. Did you actually get some corn? Pass along the item # from their book and I will check again this week. Thanks

Yes, I did. Grainger had a sale where they provided shipping for free, so I ordered 3 x 40 lb bags of ground corncob. I couldn't find my order info, but I looked in their online catalog and found:

Corn cob 425 micron item no. 2MVR5 $23.60. They also have a grade that is a bit larger in particle size at 600 microns, but I chose the smaller size and find it works well.

Funny, I went by the Grainger store yesterday and they had the corn. I am trying to decide on which size to get. The walmart stuff hangs up in the separator because some of it is too big. So, which one? 18 or 30 sieve?

I've been buying the smallest corncob that Grainger has. It really sifts out beautifully, in fact, most of it comes out of the sifter without even shaking it.

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