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1050 Tips and Tricks


Nik Habicht

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Note to all readers: If a thread seemed applicable to more than one category i.e. 1050 vs. other presses and 1050 vs. Super 1050 the link appears in both places.

Why buy a 1050 versus other presses:

Dillons, What's with the 1050

Dillon 650 vs. 1050

Dillon 550 or 650

Buying a new Press, upgrading from Square Deal B

1050 vs. Super 1050:

Dillon 1050 vs. Super 1050

Do you need the 1050 toolhead ratchet:

1050 toolhead ratchet, do I need that?

Dillon Powder Check on the RL 1050

1050 problems and solutions:

Primer Feed mechanism hints:

1050 primer feed problems

Dillon updates 1050 to 1050B, improving case indexing performance for pistol calibers.

Powder Check System:

Dillon Powder Check on the RL1050

Routine Maintenance:

New/old 1050 how far would you go? (tearing down the machine)

Original 1050 Support from Dillon:

Dillon 1050 no longer supported? Yes, it is!

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  • 2 weeks later...

Dillon customer support for the 1050? got mine in 1991-documented loading in excess of 300,000 rounds of 38 super- ive moved 8 times since . once coast to coast,to arrive in arizona-phx, the meca of shooting and home of dillon.thru my lack of expertise ive trashed or abused several parts of my 1050 over the years. i walk into dillon"s showroom,tell Dave or whoevers behind the counter what i need that i broke and walk out with new replacement part in hand-no hassles-no questions-just professional help and immediate remedy to my problems . same treatmentwith problem resolution with my 550. --what else could you want?

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  • 1 year later...

Shell Plate when loading Super Comp.

Dillon says use the .223 shell plate, not the 9mm. This is true. With the 9mm I had all kinds of primer feed problems. With the .223 shell plate the brass and primers line up perfectly.

The .223 shell plates if for Super Comp. or rimless .38.

The 9mm is for the +P brass. The +P rim has a slightly larger diameter.

Indy

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Primer Feed Trick

Add wieght to the top of the "primer feed rod." I just taped (duct tape of course) a 230 gr. .45 on top and now it works alot better.

I pushed the feed rod down about every 10th load. Towards the bottom I would check it about every other load. The primers were sure not to feed at least once and usually more for every 100 rounds. This was time consuming. Then I thought!!! (What a novel idea - use my brain). The primers aren't going down because of friction. They need more wieght to push past the friction of the primer getting caught on the side of the primer tube. So, I added wieght. It works alot better. I still check it when I get to the last few primers, but not always. I've loaded 1000's now and only once did the primers not feed down.

I recommendation for Dillon - make the primer feed rod heavier - lead? no that's not good for our health. titanium? yeah, but to expensive. Ok, cheap heavy steel would be fine. The plastic is too light.

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Re; Weight on the primer rod.

You may be getting some built up primer residue in the tube that needs cleaned out or the plastic tip on your primer magazine may have a burr or may need replaced. It should really feed every single primer without any added weight. Ive learned not to tighten the nut on top of the primer magazine "tight" but to leave it a little loose, mabey a quarter turn; and let the primer magazine "float"

Adam

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  • 3 months later...

I always had a 200 gr bullet taped to the top of the plastic primer follower.

Dillon doesn't make the follower heavier in case you were to absentmindedly drop it down the primer magazine, which only happened to have a few primers in it. Heavier, in that case, isn't good.

be

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I always had a 200 gr bullet taped to the top of the plastic primer follower.

Dillon doesn't make the follower heavier in case you were to absentmindedly drop it down the primer magazine, which only happened to have a few primers in it. Heavier, in that case, isn't good.

be

ROFL

Just the other day I was thinking must be the only fool with bullets taped to his primer follower :wacko:

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  • 1 year later...

In reading the FAQ for the 650, I saw something that caught my eye that would (and does) work on a 1050.

Fact - the primer catcher sucks the BIG one.

So when I first got my 1050, I installed a funnel and a length of clear tubing to funnel the spent primers away, and it work fine. Just didn't look good.

After reading the 650 FAQ, I took a .223 case and cut off the head. Installed the clear plastic tubing on the cut end and then jammed the neck into the hole at the bottom of the frame.

HPIM0693-1.jpg

Works well and looks good.

RePete.

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  • 1 year later...

I am going to have to do that primer catcher mod!

Is there a caliber conversion list for the 1050 any where? There is this http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=11064 but it does not cover the 1050. I have a new 1050 in .223 and possibly want to load .40 s&w on it. It seems like I would not need that many different parts and most would be for the case feeder.

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  • 7 months later...

This only works for small primers. As I have found out that large primers get wedged in the .223 case mouth & push the case out. What works 100% of the time is take a .357 Magnum case & drill out the bottom using the case as a drill index.

Then use epoxy or JB weld to hold the rim to the bottom of the 1050, then slide on a piece of 3/8" clear plastic tubing & run it into a 5 gallon bucket. Works Great!!

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This only works for small primers. As I have found out that large primers get wedged in the .223 case mouth & push the case out. What works 100% of the time is take a .357 Magnum case & drill out the bottom using the case as a drill index.

Then use epoxy or JB weld to hold the rim to the bottom of the 1050, then slide on a piece of 3/8" clear plastic tubing & run it into a 5 gallon bucket. Works Great!!

I use it for large primers too.

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  • 6 months later...
  • 1 year later...

mike1911: My "W" shellplate just lets a 9x19 case sort of float. I wouldn't trust it to pull out of the sizing or expander dies.

My 9mm shellplate will not take a .40 S&W case. It will "almost," but it just can't quite do it.

If you have the tolerances just right, you probably could, but I would worry about damaging the shell plate or sticking a bunch of cases.

I was "shocked" when I read that Lee's shellplates are made for 9mm and .40S&W, but you need the .40/10mm shellplate for 10mm Auto. None of that makes any sense to me as the head of a .40=the head of a 10mm.

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Thanks for the info. Some time ago I heard you could use either the 40 or the 9mm shell plate with different pins to make it work so you could load both with one shell plate and different pins. Maybe someone got it confused with the Lee. Looks like I will have to buy another shell plate.

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Thanks for the info. Some time ago I heard you could use either the 40 or the 9mm shell plate with different pins to make it work so you could load both with one shell plate and different pins. Maybe someone got it confused with the Lee. Looks like I will have to buy another shell plate.

No, some have reported that they can. I can't with mine.

I just find that there would appear to be too much shop for comfort. If you have one of the shellplates, try the other caliber and see.

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  • 5 months later...
This only works for small primers. As I have found out that large primers get wedged in the .223 case mouth & push the case out. What works 100% of the time is take a .357 Magnum case & drill out the bottom using the case as a drill index.

Then use epoxy or JB weld to hold the rim to the bottom of the 1050, then slide on a piece of 3/8" clear plastic tubing & run it into a 5 gallon bucket. Works Great!!

I use it for large primers too.

I will now say that the Winchester LP primers started to push out the .223 case, so I looked at an alternative.

I have modded 4 SDB's and a 650 using a drilled out 38Special case. I had one left over and utilised it on my 1050.

After the case is drilled out, take a 3/8" flat washer and remove a third of it so that you have a cresent shaped washer. You can use the left over piece as a shim later.

Remove the case retainer pin - at station 1 - and tap the hole from the bottom with an 8-32 tap. Use lots of cutting oil and go slower than normal. The hole doesn't have to be enlarged, as it's the right size. You don't have to go to the top either, when you see the tap rising in the hole, you are done.

If you can get a large head machine screw, all the better but a regular one will suffice.

Assemble as per the picture, paying attention to where the ejection hole is.

I have to clean mine up but it's functional as is and works well.

_MG_0041.jpg

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  • 3 years later...

A little blue birdy turned me onto this...

in the spare parts kit for a 550, there is a part called a Cartridge Spring, #13926. it looks like a paper clip, and it is the top left item in the picture of the 550 parts kit. order a couple.

When they arrive;

On the 1050, remove the white plastic piece from the primer seating station that holds the case in place, and with the long end sticking outward toward the right, fasten the clip down with the screw with a case in the station with the normal amount of play. With a strong wire cutter, cut off any excess of the spring clip so the handle doesn't hit it during cycling.

now you can see the primers in the primer slide...

jj

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  • 2 weeks later...

I am fixing to convert my 1050 from .45acp to .40 S&W. I converted it to .45 from .40 but it was a couple of years ago. Any tricks advice steps on the conversion yall can help me with? I 'm a bit nervous about the switch

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As you pull the parts off, wipe them clean. When the shellplate is off, clean and lube underneath and lube parts as necessary.

Don't forget to lube the grease fitting on the press.

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  • 4 weeks later...

Followed advice from RePete and my conversion went fairly smooth. Stripped down the machine wiped all parts down including the frame. I had to adjust the shellplate down a little and adjust the dies but all else went very smooth. I also replaced the white nylon tabs that hold the shellplate down. My machine was purchased in 1999 and is running like new again. If nothing else the conversion gave me a chance to clean it up real good, probably should do a clean up once a year anyway. I am going to load up a bunch of .40 then switch it back to .45 probably in the spring.

Edited by lppd4
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  • 1 month later...

A little blue birdy turned me onto this...

in the spare parts kit for a 550, there is a part called a Cartridge Spring, #13926. it looks like a paper clip, and it is the top left item in the picture of the 550 parts kit. order a couple.

When they arrive;

On the 1050, remove the white plastic piece from the primer seating station that holds the case in place, and with the long end sticking outward toward the right, fasten the clip down with the screw with a case in the station with the normal amount of play. With a strong wire cutter, cut off any excess of the spring clip so the handle doesn't hit it during cycling.

now you can see the primers in the primer slide...

jj

Would it not be better to use clear plexiglass (or something like that)? I wonder if using the spring you describe would leave the primer vulnerable to extra dirt/debris/etc falling into the primer without being noticed. Am I wrong?

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Where is the dirt coming from in the short time the primer is exposed?

On the occasional primer jam, now all I have to do to clear the jamed primer is grab it with some tweezers and keep loading, vs finding the correct sized Alan wrench and removing and the white triangle, clearing the jam, and replacing the white triangle. Much easier...

jj

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