John E. Posted January 12, 2009 Share Posted January 12, 2009 Please send me a couple of empty, unprimed samples that have been re-sized with the various dies that were not supplied with the Gizmo40. " Nothing is as permanent as change" Target Arms, P.O.Box 326, Grand River OH 44045 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CHA-LEE Posted January 12, 2009 Author Share Posted January 12, 2009 John> I will Gizmo some cases with the standard Dillon die and the EGW U-Die and send them off to you this week. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CHA-LEE Posted January 14, 2009 Author Share Posted January 14, 2009 John E.> I got some samples made up and going into the mail to you tomorrow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CHA-LEE Posted February 11, 2009 Author Share Posted February 11, 2009 Here is an update guys. Three other shooters and myself have been using this Gizmo resizing solution and none of us have encountered a single nose dive issue. When using the undersized brass with the Gizmo you MUST adjust your magazine feed lips to no larger than .390. I usually set my magazines to .385 and when they spread out to .390 I will bring them back down to .385. They will spread out over time and it usually happens when you drop a mag on the ground during a reload. One of the shooters has switched over to using 180gr Montana Gold bullets and we had to up the powder drop a little bit (4.6gr to 4.7gr) to keep the fps the same. For some reason the Montana Gold bullets shoot a little slower than the Zero bullets. But the good news is that both bullet types feed perfectly. We have been reusing the same Gizmoed brass over and over again with no ill effects either. It is actually easier to resize the brass in the Gizmo the second, third and forth time through. It really does not take that much longer to reload when using the Gizmo. I take about 400 - 500 cases and spray them with case lube, then run them through the Gizmo. Once that is done I move them over to the case feeder of my XL650 and chug out the rounds. It doesn’t take me more than an hour to get 400 - 500 rounds reloaded and ready to use for the next match. The $20 LEE Single stage press didn’t last too long as I accidently put a case upside down in the Gizmo and it got jammed up in the resizing die. I figured that I could still push it though but got a little too aggressive with it and ended up breaking one of the bench mounting legs off the press. So it was time to upgrade to a more permanent Single Stage Press solution. I got an RCBS Rock Chucker Supreme and it works great. There is more leverage when using the RCBS press so it makes resizing the cases even easier. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hardluk1 Posted February 13, 2009 Share Posted February 13, 2009 I had a problem with the mag that came with my gun but the two new ones from henning although stock mags worked good and ammo set different in those mags. I don't have the mics you use just oll time fiddle'n and on the original mag after try'n several things it would still try to carry the first couples rounds in the mag nose low compaired to the last several and when only trying to feed one round , the lastround or 2, by pulling the slide it would jamb up about 50% of the time. After ajusting and not helping as much as i hoped i trimed 1/8 of the front legs on the follower and round them over and that let the front of the follower ride a bit more nose high in the mag and seems to fix the problem completely. I do use large nose hollow points DPX enough to want to know the gun will work right with them so if the gun won't feed them it doesn't matter how well fmj's shoot. This is also my house gun and travels in the car.If a gun can't shoot hp's it does'nt matter how well it shoots fmj as i don't shoot competitively. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeffdg Posted February 16, 2009 Share Posted February 16, 2009 replying to the original post re: the recipe. I think I'm missing a point here - if the Gizmo resizes the case to .415, why is the EGW undersize die needed? The standard resizing die will be used simply to remove the primer, and won't actually resize anything so long as it has passed through the Gizmo? As I read it, the EGW seems redundant - so I must be missing a point here - can you help clear up my brain fog? Thanks, Jeff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff686 Posted February 16, 2009 Share Posted February 16, 2009 replying to the original post re: the recipe.I think I'm missing a point here - if the Gizmo resizes the case to .415, why is the EGW undersize die needed? The standard resizing die will be used simply to remove the primer, and won't actually resize anything so long as it has passed through the Gizmo? As I read it, the EGW seems redundant - so I must be missing a point here - can you help clear up my brain fog? Thanks, Jeff Jeff, The gizmo is just an adapter that lets you easily push a case all the way through a die. It comes with a die attached (similar to a lee FCD). The die included with the gizmo is not undersized. In the setup described in this thread, they have removed the gizmo from the die, and attached the EGW undersize die to the gizmo. Since the EGW die is threaded to accept a decapping pin, they drill out those threads, creating an undersized pass-through die. They then use the gizmo+EGW to resize to .415. After they get to .415, they put the brass in the progressive press. The resizing die in the progressive press is normal size, so it doesn't do anything except deprime. You could replace it with a universal deprimig die instead. See the picture of the gizmo. Maybe it will help. http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?...36&hl=gizmo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DarthMuffin Posted December 28, 2009 Share Posted December 28, 2009 Anyone have a web address or a phone number of where to get the Gizmo case sizing die? I emailed the address given a while ago and have not heard back. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrumpyOne Posted December 28, 2009 Share Posted December 28, 2009 I shoot an old Springfield P9 Factory Comp (Cz/Tz clone essentially) and have never had any feed issues, but thanks for the heads up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RevolverJockey Posted December 31, 2009 Share Posted December 31, 2009 I have a solution, I will get a video made and posted in the next 24 hours. Not sure what thread to put it in, so I will probably start a new one. Maybe even one in the Enos reloading forum. Lee Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DarthMuffin Posted December 31, 2009 Share Posted December 31, 2009 (edited) I have a solution, I will get a video made and posted in the next 24 hours. Not sure what thread to put it in, so I will probably start a new one. Maybe even one in the Enos reloading forum.Lee At least post a link to your post in the reloading forum in this thread. That sort of seems like a good compromise between giving info and thread-jacking. Oh, and for those that care, I got in touch with the maker of the Gizmo and "the check is in the mail". Edited December 31, 2009 by DarthMuffin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RevolverJockey Posted January 1, 2010 Share Posted January 1, 2010 I have a solution, I will get a video made and posted in the next 24 hours. Not sure what thread to put it in, so I will probably start a new one. Maybe even one in the Enos reloading forum.Lee At least post a link to your post in the reloading forum in this thread. That sort of seems like a good compromise between giving info and thread-jacking. Oh, and for those that care, I got in touch with the maker of the Gizmo and "the check is in the mail". Sorry if it looked like I was thread-jacking. That certainly was not my intention. For those who care, I started a thread in the Enos Reloading Forum and in the Witness Forum with a link to the video I made. Lee Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DarthMuffin Posted January 9, 2010 Share Posted January 9, 2010 I got my gizmo in and hooked up using my "u" die. It works great and seems to have solved my nose-dive issues, at least cycling by hand shows as such. I'm running 1.225 OAL (my gun feeds up to at least 1.230 but since 1.225 works for Cha-Lee, I thought I'd start there) with MG 180 CMJ bullets. Mixed brass, but mostly Winchester. I thought I'd have to go borrow a friends drill press or even his mill to get the threads on the inside of the U die hogged out, but it turns out it's not the hardened steel I thought it would be. I jammed two lock rings together to hold it and put it in my vice and the hand drill made quick work of it. I got a piece of tupperwear from the dollar store and mounted that over the die. Two holes in the bottom, one held down by the die the other on the opposite end for the brass to fall out into a bin. The lid on the top even helps the brass from flying too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glk21C Posted January 10, 2010 Share Posted January 10, 2010 I haven't shot my limited in a match yet but luckily for me I've never had a nose dive issue with it. All my dies are Lee in my 550. I've put about 1000 practice rounds through it, my mags are all from Henning with grams guts. I'm considering myself lucky! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tanfogliocoe Posted January 10, 2010 Share Posted January 10, 2010 CHA LEE. What tool are you using to squeeze your feedlips down? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DarthMuffin Posted January 10, 2010 Share Posted January 10, 2010 I don't know about ChaLee, but I'm using a pair of lineman's pliers (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lineman%27s_pliers) to bend my lips (one at a time). I initially had electrical tape over the plier jaws, but that's worn through and doesn't seem like it's necessary. The jaws of my pliers have smooth faces, at least for the part that matters. I just focus on the front of the feed lips. The rear will take care of itself, provided they're not too small. There's not much you can do to adjust the rear anyhow without risking cracking the mag body. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mo Hepworth Posted January 11, 2010 Share Posted January 11, 2010 I don't know about ChaLee, but I'm using a pair of lineman's pliers (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lineman%27s_pliers) to bend my lips (one at a time). I initially had electrical tape over the plier jaws, but that's worn through and doesn't seem like it's necessary. The jaws of my pliers have smooth faces, at least for the part that matters.I just focus on the front of the feed lips. The rear will take care of itself, provided they're not too small. There's not much you can do to adjust the rear anyhow without risking cracking the mag body. yeah,..pliers work for me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kestutis Posted January 28, 2010 Share Posted January 28, 2010 Hello. Have someone tried to solve 38 sa primed and used brass nose diving problem with gimzo and 38 SA EGW Undersize drilled threads Die ? For those who use standart 38 SA brass and can't buy unprimed may be is solution with Gimzo and EGW die ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CHA-LEE Posted January 28, 2010 Author Share Posted January 28, 2010 The last I heard the guy doing the Gizmo was only doing them for .40 S&W. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iggy42 Posted November 7, 2010 Share Posted November 7, 2010 (edited) Since it looks I may be joining the EAA family with a Witness Elite Limited .40 I was wondering if I order my 140mm mags from Henning if I might run into the problems it seems people are having. Also since I will be shooting .40 S&W will I be safe to get the .40 mags from Henning or should I get the 10mm? Guess I should mention I will either be using factory ammo, or Atlanta Arms loads since I lack the space to reload my own Edited November 7, 2010 by Iggy42 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bamayne Posted November 7, 2010 Share Posted November 7, 2010 Since it looks I may be joining the EAA family with a Witness Elite Limited .40 I was wondering if I order my 140mm mags from Henning if I might run into the problems it seems people are having. Also since I will be shooting .40 S&W will I be safe to get the .40 mags from Henning or should I get the 10mm? Guess I should mention I will either be using factory ammo, or Atlanta Arms loads since I lack the space to reload my own I would get the 10mm from henning just in case you ever decide to reload in the future. With the 10mm mags you can load to a longer oal. I have not had any problems at all with hennings 140mm mags. I've put thousands of rounds through my limited 40 with hennings 10mm mags without a nose dive. I do use the lee u die to help the rounds stack better in the mag. I don't have any experience with the 40 sw 140mm mags so I really can't comment. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
geo Posted January 26, 2011 Share Posted January 26, 2011 Hello, If needed we can offer the die opened up for pass through, Chris alerted us to this post today. best regards geo www.egwguns.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kurtb Posted January 26, 2011 Share Posted January 26, 2011 38SA is semi-rimmed? Would a push through die work? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff686 Posted January 26, 2011 Share Posted January 26, 2011 I've 'pushed through' 38 super using a Lee Factory Crimp Die. Well, that is to say, I've pushed through 38 Super Comp (Starline and Armscor) and 38 TJ. Occassionally, I get a piece of 38 Super mixed in, and it won't go through. However, the rim is definately squeezed down a little too. I've had a few of my 'pushed through' brass pop out of the shell plate when priming. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JCB Posted January 27, 2011 Share Posted January 27, 2011 What if the bottom of the die was cut, so that there was almost no cone on it, just streight. It would mean I guess that you have to stear every case into the die... But doable? CHA-LEE system works from what I see... Not tried yet... But I think its already timeconsuming to reload... And then also puch every case thru before loading... I wanna find another way. And if you wanna cut the die... what will cut the carbid insert, since I know that is super hard.... Geo, you ave experience in this... Making the die straight without the cone making it go all the way? Doable? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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