Jump to content
Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!

Glock Trigger Job Links On The Web

Recommended Posts

This thread was lost during the conversion.

Glock Trigger Job Links on the Web


Here are the some links to Glock Trigger job information:

Trigger pull chart with various part combinations

Trigger job detail links (this link is dead, I'll see if I can dig up the original...KF)

$0.25 trigger job

Dale Rhea dremeling

General information



Additional info copied from a thread on GlockTalk describing the addition of an internal over-travel stop on a Glock.

Limiting overtravel is simple for $5 or less. Buy a plastic washer, some 4-minute two-part epoxy, and a razor blade from the local home improvement store.

Cut the plastic washer to make a block that fits vertically into the aft part of the left side window of the trigger housing, where the left wing of the trigger bar resides. The plastic will stop the trigger bar from moving when the left wing of the trigger bar contacts the plastic block.

Assemble the pistol and test dry-fire to ensure the block is not too thick. If it's too thick, sand it thinner. If it's too thin, go spend a few cents on a thicker washer.

Once the thickness of the washer is determined, mix up some epoxy, daub a bit on the plastic block and trigger housing with a toothpick, and let it cure.

Presto chango, you now have reduced the overtravel in your Glock. If you can't understand this description with five minutes or less of looking at your trigger housing/trigger bar interaction then don't waste your time. Go spend $20 or whatever the gimmick will cost.


Be very careful with this modification. Placing a block or shim in the left side of the housing where the trigger bar rides disables the drop safety in the glock. The reason that slot is there is to prevent the trigger bar from bouncing downwards in the event of an impact and letting the striker slip off. The shim also negates your firing pin block. The plunger that blocks the firing pin will remain depressed also with this modification.



You are warning about being careful limiting the forward travel of the trigger with shims, correct?

The info that vincent posted is for the rearward travel of the trigger.


Just a follow-up. Using the info provided by the original links, the following trigger modifications were performed on a G17 (and only these - all parts stock Glock unless noted):

1) 3.5 lb connector

2) Dale Rhea trigger bar trigger spring move (the bar must be heated to dark cherry red which is a LOW temp - if it gets orange it's too hot and won't anneal. The new hole was drilled just over existing hole.)

3) Dale Rhea firing pin lightening - shaft reduction and head cuts (minimal material removed from "heel" - the steep 45 degree angle cut shown in the article produced occasional doubles).

4) 4 lb Wolff reduced power firing pin spring

5) Debur and polish all contacting trigger mechanism surfaces

6) Jim Brown overtravel stop (fitted piece of aluminum square rod + krazy glue. The epoxy I bought didn't stick to the trigger housing very well and eventually broke loose). I'm thinking about drilling and pinning this stop into place just for good measure.

They immediately produced a no-bull 3.25 lb peak trigger pull on an RCBS trigger pull gauge. After about 500+ rounds of S&B 115 FMJ it is down to ~3 lb with no light strikes or doubling (and S&B is known for hard primers). The overtravel and corresponding reset distance is a bit shorter and quite nice. If you reload and use soft primers then you might be able to tweak another 1/2lb off and get good strikes, but you would be dedicated to soft primer ammo. I can live with 3 lbs and then I can shoot whatever's on sale. In case anyone was wondering, NO safeties were affected.

PS: As fishnfst noted, don't mess with the forward travel section of the trigger housing "window". The narrowed section in the front is the "drop safety" for the trigger bar and any mods here could disable it. It's just not worth the minor "take-up" reduction.

PPS: Amateur gunsmithing can lead to broken and/or unsafe guns. When in doubt send your gun off to a good Glock gunsmith like Matt at Custom Glock Racing (before you wreck it - it will cost you LESS in the long run.

Edited by Flexmoney

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

I am going to unlock this for a bit, as I don't think the links are current.

Please copy and paste in a list of good links, and I will update the thread. (lets leave the dialog out...just stick with links to resources)

Kyle Farris

Forum Administrator

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

The " Glock trigger-bar-nose re-shape trigger-job", as far as Glock trigger stuff goes this is pretty advanced, be prepared to be buying a new trigger-bar if it doesn't work out right... I don't use power tools to do this, I think they make it too easy to go too far and mess it up, a file, 600 grit, and Flitz are enough...


Edited by ck1

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

JOHNNY GLOCKS LLC you tube channel has a vid called the Glock 42 internals. It's 20 min long and if you know what to look for you can pic up a lot of mods. Also in the new geometry (long Version) vid there are some real game changing mods that probably should have stayed in the the bag with the cat.

Just a word about safety if you do choose to modify the trigger safety tab make sure the crossbars still rest on some of the horizontal shelf this truly is the safety that is most over looked. With a 4lb comp striker spring that polished sear to striker lugface engagement can be pretty slick and that's not a lot of counter tension holding it even at Glocks required 2/3rds engagement. Also consider the reduced poundage recoil springs comp guy love to use. All those springs and timings factor in!

Now my 2 cents worth: aftermarket strikers are nonsense( someone please show me some hard data on lock time and not the "I've seen matches won by 1/30th of a second BS" not to mention the striker is only traveling less than half an inch at most under relatively high tension. This time frame unless your a highly trained martial is artist is beyond human response timing.

also to my knowledge none have the Rockwell hardness that Glock has still those of you that may work on a lot of Glocks have been noticing they are cutting corners on the lug face hardness as I see a lot of the dreaded sear cut into that tool steel these days so the short save some $ there and buy a great set of stones buy the way there is a method that is sooo much better than stones PM me for that one.

if you hold your finger against the outside of the frame where the transfer bar is traveling it will become very apparent the frame is not to be over looked in all this may be I'll start a thread on frame jobs as some plastic polish and dremmel accessory 423E can really make an fu#$%ng unbelievable difference at short count I can think of 10 places on the frame that may deserve attention.

Just for fun

8 mods to the housing

5 to the 3.5 connectors which could be a thread of it's owne

12 to the bar thread on it's own as well- by the way modifying the beak I have always found never to cut the mustard in fact it's a sketchy mod. I return to it now and again as if I've missed something but I've been doing Glocks and only Glocks for 12 years now and well.....

anyway if anyone wants to talk shop just PM me I'm all about sharing real hands on experience and frustration as well...

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now