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Two Stage Rem. 700 Trigger?


bigbrowndog

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Jewel did make a two stage, but, they don't any longer. Timney now has a tactical model, but no two stage. If you really want to have a two stage, Briley makes an Anshutz adaptor. The stock needs to have more clearance cut in, and the triggers are PRICEY!

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Thanks Dan, i'll call Briley, and see just what pricey!!!! means. It was just a thought, I have one on a very nice 10/22 and like it, so I thought i'd see whats available.

Trapr

Briley only sells the adaptor....about $90.00 if I remember correctly. The Anshutz trigger is around $300.00 I think. An awesome trigger, but maybe not for a MOR gun.

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There is a 2 stage that's supposed to fit a Remington. Or is it more like there's supposed to be a 2 stage that fits a Remington? Anyway, I think it's made in New Zealand, imported through Canada. I've seen in mentioned on one of the highpower boards. It could be like the Milazzo trigger for an AR.....it exists....try and find one!!

If you really want a 2 stage trigger.....go with an M1A.

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If interested in doing a trigger job on your Remington 700 trigger, here are some directions I pulled off the internet a while back. I'm sorry I don't remember the source or I would give them the credits due. As with any trigger job, be careful and if you aren't good at this type of thing, consult a gunsmith.

Bill

The Remington triggers are very good, except they come with a built in lawyer, and he weighs about 9 or 10 pounds.

You will need a bit of good quality gun oil (CLP or equivalent), and a set of small screwdrivers, and some white or red nail polish.

Remove the barreled action from the stock.

Looking at the gun and trigger so the safety is up, and the barrel is pointing to your right... the front of the trigger is to your right...

The three screws are as follows...

* On your right, (the front of the trigger) the top screw, near the action, is over travel...

* The bottom screw is spring tension...

* On your left side, (the back of the trigger) is the engagement screw.

First, break the white "Seals of God" and screw the three screws out enough so that you see several threads.

They may be hard at first, but they are NOT staked in place. The screws and trigger body are carbon steel, and may be rusted, or they may have a sealant on them. Just break them free. Drop a teeny bit of oil on the threads. Run the screws in and out several times until the oil is in the threads, and they turn freely.

OK, now down to business.

Back out the spring tension screw out until there is just enough pressure to keep the trigger forward, but it's very light (4 or 5 oz's) and easy to move.

Back out the engagement screw, (the single screw on the left) and the over-travel screw (the upper screw on your right) out, so there's play to adjust.

Close the bolt on a cocked pin (don't pull the trigger) and VERY SLOWLY turn the engagement screw (on your left) in until the firing pin drops. Back it out about 1/3 to 1/2 of a turn. With the firing pin down, you should now feel the trigger wobble back and forth if you pull it because there is excessive over travel.

Because the back surface of the trigger is NOT undercut, you have to adjust over-travel with the pin "down".

Now, with the firing pin in the "fired" position, screw in the over-travel screw until it "just touches" the trigger lightly, preventing the trigger from moving... back out the over travel screw 1/4 turn. Pulling the trigger now, (with the pin "down") you should feel just the "slightest" free movement.

Now turn in the spring tension screw (lower right) to a pull that you like... I'd strongly suggest a good trigger pull gauge, instead of guessing.

Cock the pin and try it... it should break like glass.

Check by:

* Slam the bolt closed a dozen times, check to see if the pin dropped each time. If the pin drops, back out the engagement screw 1/4 turn, and do again.

* Cock the pin, set the safety, pull the trigger, release the trigger, and release the safety, a dozen times... if the pin drops, increase the spring tension (shouldn't be necessary, unless you're down around 10-15 oz's, and this trigger is not reliable at that light a pull.

Put white or red nail polish on the screws. Let dry, and put another coat on it again, and again.

There will be no "take up slack", this is a single stage trigger, and can't be adjusted to act like a two stage.

These triggers are easily capable of going to 24-26 oz's, and they keep the setting year after year, and I've never had to re-adjust one.

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and after all that mill work the only thing showing, that even alludes to it being different is that straight trigger. <_<

those that know would be envious, and it would have a high cool factor.

Trapr

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Dan, I spoke with the maker of the 2 stage, he said they should have US dealers in about 2 months. the cost he qouted me right now was 199.00 british pounds, about 400.00US.

However, he also said they were considered "military goods" and so were heavily taxed, and not exportable right now. So even if I got one in the UK, next month, I couldn't leave the country with it.

Thanks for the link, it may work out in a few months.

Trapr

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I have a Timney trigger for my Remmy and it is not a two stage, nor was one available when I ordered mine. I would go with a Jewel if I were to do it again. They do make a two stage for the Remmie's and the Jewels in my friends rifles are all real "Jewels"!

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I have a Timney trigger for my Remmy and it is not a two stage, nor was one available when I ordered mine. I would go with a Jewel if I were to do it again. They do make a two stage for the Remmie's and the Jewels in my friends rifles are all real "Jewels"!

George,

Jewel did make a two stage, I have one. My understanding is they no longer make it. I have seen postings on other sites to call Jewel and ask them to make one special ordered. I don't know if they will or not.

My 2 stage Jewel is over 10 years old. I built that rifle for the Masters......I think it was Masters 9.

Dan, I spoke with the maker of the 2 stage, he said they should have US dealers in about 2 months. the cost he qouted me right now was 199.00 british pounds, about 400.00US.

However, he also said they were considered "military goods" and so were heavily taxed, and not exportable right now. So even if I got one in the UK, next month, I couldn't leave the country with it.

Thanks for the link, it may work out in a few months.

Trapr

Trapr,

For the cost and hassle.....I would do the Briley adaptor, and Anshutz setup. Or, do a cheap 2 stage......lot's of engagement on the lever and a rubber stop for the final weight. :)

Keep us posted.

Dan

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that last description sounds like something you'd find on a toilet flusher!!!!!!!

I may go with the Jewell HVR, for now, i gave serious thought to buying a Jackson and just putting it in my checked baggage, or checking it with my Benelli. ;)

Trapr

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George,

Jewel did make a two stage, I have one. My understanding is they no longer make it. I have seen postings on other sites to call Jewel and ask them to make one special ordered. I don't know if they will or not.

My 2 stage Jewel is over 10 years old. I built that rifle for the Masters......I think it was Masters 9.

Dang last I checked was back in 02 when I went with the Timney instead of a Jewel. I had my eye on the Jewel 2 stage but passed on it to save a few bux ;-/

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that last description sounds like something you'd find on a toilet flusher!!!!!!!

Trapr

Trapr,

I set up my front grip XP100 with a Shilen benchrest trigger. The leverage in the linkage made trigger travel a bit long. It's light...about 6 ounces. I actually glued an eraser to the back of the trigger, and "tune" the "second stage" with layers of tape! It sounds funny, but works!

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