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Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!

Speaking of Firing Pins.....


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I had a failure to fire the other day at the range. I cleared the round from the chamber, loaded another, and went on shooting. After another hundred rounds, or so, I packed up and went home.

This morning I was reading the thread that's currently going around regarding the high number of broken firing pins plaguing the PCC community. I decided to give mine an inspection and here's what I found. 

 

It's amazing how this thing continued to function, but as long as the two ends continue to come together I suppose it has to. The problem, of course, is when one half slips over the other in the middle of a stage.

 

IMG_0852.JPG

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I polished mine at the point they break, where they machine it down, in hopes it will increase its life. I of course carry a spare. I would hope they would cut a taper instead of a square shoulder at that point.  I also reduced the weight of the mil-spec hammer and lighten the hammer spring. 

Edited by rstandley
added information
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I had a misfire during a match, went to the safe area and found the broken pin. There were some metal chips in the tunnel so I cleaned them out and dropped the two pieces back into the bolt.  The pin allowed me to finish the match.  

 

I do not think it will slam fire because the heavy part of the pin is still retained by the spring.  The broken part, that is not sprung, is very light and does not have enough energy to set off a primer.  

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When it rains, it pours. 

Just for the hell of it I took my spare bolt out of my range bag and took the pin out for inspection. It came out in two pieces. I put in a new one, wrapped it back up, and put it back in the bag.

 

How many of you are running a busted pin, but don't know it?

 

No more pulling the trigger during dry fire.

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2 hours ago, MikieM said:

 

How many of you are running a busted pin, but don't know it?

 

 

You made me check, so far so good, my pin is not broken and it is not beating itself up anymore either.

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2 hours ago, MikieM said:

No more pulling the trigger during dry fire.

 

I also try to not drop the hammer when dry firing but I still want to manipulate the safety and have the trigger movement.  For 99% of my dryfiring I just lock the bolt back. Initially I was concerned that this would result in over inserting magazines but so far that has not been a problem.

 

But sometimes my practice requires me to drop the hammer.  An example is unloaded starts. I have a 33rd mag loaded with around 28 dummy rds and a piece of folded kydex above the bullets so they do not feed into the chamber when I work the charging handle.

 

For these exercises I have a bolt that is dedicated to dryfire practice and range practice.  Its never used in a match.  So far so good.

Edited by Flatland Shooter
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Of course at the end of each stage the RO orders the hammer to be placed down, so that's a few more times the FP has no cushion.

 

What's needed are better, more reliable pins. It's time to build a better mousetrap.

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4 hours ago, Flatland Shooter said:

 

Works for me but its not in compliance with USPSA rules.

 

PCC 8.3.7.1    (Hammer down prior to inserting the flag.)

 

 

Correct. That's why I mentioned it.

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I'll repeat a comment I've made on other firing pin threads... if you round the strike end of the pin (like the AR 5.56 pins) the hammer will strike closer to the center line....which I think would help to help prevent pin breakage

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16 hours ago, Les Snyder said:

I'll repeat a comment I've made on other firing pin threads... if you round the strike end of the pin (like the AR 5.56 pins) the hammer will strike closer to the center line....which I think would help to help prevent pin breakage

That makes sense.  My next project.

 

I see some metal displacement on my current pins (which have plenty of rounds).  I will put in a new pin after I round it and compare.

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On 4/14/2018 at 6:03 AM, Les Snyder said:

I'll repeat a comment I've made on other firing pin threads... if you round the strike end of the pin (like the AR 5.56 pins) the hammer will strike closer to the center line....which I think would help to help prevent pin breakage

 

Couldn't hurt a thing.

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1 hour ago, JAFO said:

Checked mine last night and thankfully saw no deformation of the tip or the strike end.  And, FWIW, my NFA pin has a sloped shoulder where Mikie's pin broke, not a flat step.

 

I think that is the key, that and making sure you are impacting the center of the pin.

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What trigger are you all using when the pin broke?  Is the 24c impacting too much force?  Just think out loud.

 

The inconsistency of longevity is the worrisome part.  I am at about 500 on a new taccom bcg.  I’ll check mine tonight.

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I honestly felt that the Hiperfire striking force was, at least, somewhat to blame, then broke my pin with a JP trigger with the reduced power hammer spring.  That spring is not even  powerful enough to consistently set off military primers. 

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NFA now has this notation on their spare firing pin page:

"**NOTE:  Many Aftermarket drop in triggers use modified hammers which may not reset properly, or hit the firing pin square on the carrier which could cause firing pins to bind and snap.  We recommend using only MILSPEC hammers with any 9mm, .40, or .45 blow back bolt carrier groups."

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On 4/14/2018 at 4:03 AM, Les Snyder said:

I'll repeat a comment I've made on other firing pin threads... if you round the strike end of the pin (like the AR 5.56 pins) the hammer will strike closer to the center line....which I think would help to help prevent pin breakage

 

Looks like Les hit the firing pin on the head:

Quote

"**NOTE:  Many Aftermarket drop in triggers use modified hammers which may not reset properly, or hit the firing pin square on the carrier which could cause firing pins to bind and snap.  We recommend using only MILSPEC hammers with any 9mm, .40, or .45 blow back bolt carrier groups."

 

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