Maximis228 Posted March 19, 2018 Share Posted March 19, 2018 I went and shot a bunch of 220 gr subsonic 300 Blackout and now im hooked. I load pistol ammo at a fairly high rate as of now (60+K a year on a MK7). Used to load 223 on a single stage before getting my 1050s but as of now I just load pistol. I have nothing for Rifle for a progressive press outside of a set of dies. There is so much information on here and some of it seems to be conflicting from my searches. Do I trim in 1 pass or 2? Do I use Dillon's toolhead or the GSI one? Is there better options available. What stations do I set up what in? Do I need to anneal? If so What method? What do I need to get to Convert 223 to 300 BLK on a 1050? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nathanb Posted March 19, 2018 Share Posted March 19, 2018 I do mine on my 650 dillon rt-1500 trimmer toolhead for 300blk dillon carbide trim die. Universal decap die in station one run it through to prep once. Swage primer pockets run it through to load. do large batches. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cvincent Posted March 19, 2018 Share Posted March 19, 2018 I’m on a Mk7 650. I’m using the titan trimmer adapter with the Bosch router. (Google Titan trimmer, or honey badger trimmer) I’ve had issues with it, mainly related to the large amount of brass swarf. The chips would get sucked in to the front bearing of the motor and cause excessive heat. I made a shield and added 2 more vacuum ports. Seems to have fixed it. The brass chips are long and stringy and get wrapped around the end mill causing excessive amp draw and if they didn’t clear before the next brass goes in, it would trip the electrical breaker. The stringy chips also get caught in the corrugated vacuum hose, I’ve since made the hose out of 1 1/2” pvc pipe. Haven’t made any brass since that mod, but if anything it will be easier to clean out the giant chunks of stringy brass. I have also switched to the fast and friendly brass boring bar. Instead of the end mill, The insert has a chip breaker, so the consensus is that it breaks up the stringy brass better. Haven’t cut any amount of brass with it yet, so can comment on the effectiveness. You will need the short trimTool head. Carbide trim die. I do a universal decap. Trim/size, in 1 toolhead. M die, powder, MBF, seat, crimp in the other. Also not all brass works, I’ve found wolf, herters, do some weird belling in the M dieAlmost like an hourglass shape. GFL brass won’t chamber in 2 guns I’ve tried. They were both ballistic advantage barrels though. I just stick to LC brass now. It’s the easiest to swage in the 650 with a swage it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike94yj Posted March 20, 2018 Share Posted March 20, 2018 (edited) There is a list of good .223 brass to use, best is around .012 wall thickness. Some is up to .017 thick and creates problems. I cut at the shoulder, size, and trim. Edited March 20, 2018 by mike94yj Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DWFAN Posted March 20, 2018 Share Posted March 20, 2018 (edited) You need 2 passes on the 1050. Trim pass: Decap, swage, trim, regular 300blackout sizing die to fine tune headspace. I use the second die to avoid having to change the trimmer setting very often. It's easier to use the 2nd die to me. You'll need the GSI or a milled/short toolhead, trimmer (Dillon or one of the router based ones), trim die, expander die. Load pass: decap to remove media from flash hole, lyman m die, powder, bullet drop, seat, crimp (if you want to crimp). setting the MBF up for long subsonic bullets, looks to require some extra work in devising a guide for the bullet flip. Lots of videos out there with examples. Edited March 20, 2018 by DWFAN Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cvincent Posted March 20, 2018 Share Posted March 20, 2018 Oh yeah.. the Mr bulletfeeder.. it seems the dropper assembly is a pretty tight tolerance to the .308 diameter. When using coated Bullets sized to .310 some would get stuck. Had to modify the dropper assembly to work as well. It’s been a lot of work to get everything to run properly. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DWFAN Posted March 20, 2018 Share Posted March 20, 2018 (edited) The good news is.. 300blk doesn't grow much, so once you form it if the initial trim is short enough you won't ever need to trim again. If you get most of your brass back after shooting, it's probably easier to buy 2-3k already processed than to tool up to make it yourself. Edited March 20, 2018 by DWFAN Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maximis228 Posted February 17, 2020 Author Share Posted February 17, 2020 On 3/19/2018 at 6:16 PM, cvincent said: I’ve had issues with it, mainly related to the large amount of brass swarf. The chips would get sucked in to the front bearing of the motor and cause excessive heat.I made a shield and added 2 more vacuum ports. Seems to have fixed it. The brass chips are long and stringy and get wrapped around the end mill causing excessive amp draw and if they didn’t clear before the next brass goes in, it would trip the electrical breaker. The stringy chips also get caught in the corrugated vacuum hose, I’ve since made the hose out of 1 1/2” pvc pipe. Haven’t made any brass since that mod, but if anything it will be easier to clean out the giant chunks of stringy brass. I have also switched to the fast and friendly brass boring bar. Instead of the end mill, The insert has a chip breaker, so the consensus is that it breaks up the stringy brass better. Haven’t cut any amount of brass with it yet, so can comment on the effectiveness. You will need the short trim Tool head. Carbide trim die. Im having the same issue with brass being pulled up into the router (Currently using a carbide cutter bit, have a boring bar on order) and causing excessive heat quickly. Tot he point ive had to take the unit apart and clean it out after only 100 cases. I know the carbide bit isnt helping as it kinda pulls the swarf up and away VS out and away like a boring bar might. You mention a shield you have built. What does this look like? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cvincent Posted February 17, 2020 Share Posted February 17, 2020 Im having the same issue with brass being pulled up into the router (Currently using a carbide cutter bit, have a boring bar on order) and causing excessive heat quickly. Tot he point ive had to take the unit apart and clean it out after only 100 cases. I know the carbide bit isnt helping as it kinda pulls the swarf up and away VS out and away like a boring bar might. You mention a shield you have built. What does this look like?I used a piece of Kydex, slip it on the router shaft and the OD should fit snuggly but not too snuggly in the ID of the router adapter. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maximis228 Posted February 17, 2020 Author Share Posted February 17, 2020 11 minutes ago, cvincent said: I used a piece of Kydex, slip it on the router shaft and the OD should fit snuggly but not too snuggly in the ID of the router adapter. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk I appreciate the photos. Thank you sir. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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