Removing bell all the way?

[twobrat]

I started out loading plated bullets and had great success (40 cal). I'm now giving coated bullets a go. First I tried beyou bullets and had some issues with scraping. So a while later I decided to give it another go after doing some reading and got some blue bullets. This time I may have figured out my primary issue was the seating die crimping to soon during seating. So at this point I have it setup to wear the bell is just about visually removed and seated to the correct depth. My question is, is it necessary to completely remove the bell, or is a pass of the plunk test sufficient? Is there a measurement I should be going for?

[CrashDodson]

the crimp should remove the bell.  But as long as it gauges it should be gtg.  

[Steve RA]

Side of case should be straight after removing the bell.

[MemphisMechanic]

Press should be sold and seating crimping should take place in separate stations.

 

 

 

(What? It’s EASY to hypothetically spend someone else’s money...)

[twobrat]

How straight are we talking here? Visually? Or? I'm mesuring 0.423 at the top of case and 0.420 about an 1/8th inch down.

[twobrat]

2 minutes ago, MemphisMechanic said:

Press should be sold and seating crimping should take place in separate stations.

 

 

 

(What? It’s EASY to hypothetically spend someone else’s money...)

 

Haha. It's a single stage press. Can't justify another with the volume I would produce. I'm like a twice a month competitor.

[Steve RA]

That means the case is somewhat "wasp waisted" which is good as it helps prevent bullet setback when chambering the round.

[MemphisMechanic]

Two matches a month was way more than I needed for a 650!

 

I must have a lower tolerance for wasting my time, which is how I view reloading ammo.

 

I am aware others enjoy the task... somehow.  

 

Edited March 9, 2018 by MemphisMechanic

[twobrat]

5 minutes ago, Steve RA said:

That means the case is somewhat "wasp waisted" which is good as it helps prevent bullet setback when chambering the round.

 

That seems counter intuitive. In case I gave a poor description, the case is larger by 0.002 at the end the bullet goes in. So its still belled just a tiny bit.

 

EDIT: okay googling wasp wasted I get it now, i think we are on the same page.

Edited March 9, 2018 by twobrat

[RiggerJJ]

6 minutes ago, twobrat said:

How straight are we talking here? Visually? Or? I'm mesuring 0.423 at the top of case and 0.420 about an 1/8th inch down.

 

More crimp. It should at least be the same if not a couple thou under at the mouth.

[Steve RA]

With coated bullets you really don't want any "crimp" as it will normally damage the coating.

[Furrly]

5 hours ago, MemphisMechanic said:

Press should be sold and seating crimping should take place in separate stations.

 

 

 

(What? It’s EASY to hypothetically spend someone else’s money...)

This ?

[inkballedtarget]

For what its worth, my crimp measures .4210. I am not sure if that is right or wrong, but it works for me. I would imagine if they gauge and they arent tumbling, you should be set. 

 

 

[GrumpyOne]

Your "crimp" should be...Diameter of the bullet (.400, .401) + case wall thickness x 2. So,  using a case wall thickness of .010, your "crimp" should be .400 + .020 = .420 at the case mouth.

[bigedp51]

A picture is worth a thousand words

 

Good light crimp

 

needs more crimp

Edited March 23, 2018 by bigedp51

[inkballedtarget]

16 hours ago, GrumpyOne said:

Your "crimp" should be...Diameter of the bullet (.400, .401) + case wall thickness x 2. So,  using a case wall thickness of .010, your "crimp" should be .400 + .020 = .420 at the case mouth.

 

Good info! thanks

[tcazes]

I measure the bullet diameter at the base,  measure the thickness of the case, add the two together and set my crimp die to that total. That ensures full removal of the bell and no chance of scraping the coating. 

[HesedTech]

Problem is with range brass it varies in size a bit, but there are two cardinal rules:

1. Don’t over crimp, basically no dents in bullet.

2. They have to case gauge

 

For the latter this is the best tool made:

http://benstoegerproshop.com/100-hole-40-s-w-hundo-chamber-checker-cartridge-case-gauge-by-shockbottle/

 

note:

 

I have used BB 180 gr, Rainier plated (very easy to over crimp) and PD FMJHP. While pricey l prefer the PD. 

[IHAVEGAS]

On 3/9/2018 at 3:15 PM, Steve RA said:

With coated bullets you really don't want any "crimp" as it will normally damage the coating.

 

If your bullets fly like a good curve ball, good groups at 0 -15 yards or so, deltas and mikes at 30 yards or so, that is your sign. 

[cs62]

I measure the wall thickness at the base of the inserted bullet and then also at the bell, make sure they are the same and you are good to go.