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Micrometer seating die


soundlzrd

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I’m am starting to load two different bullets on a regular bases. Both coated lead, one is 124 and the other 147. I was toying with the idea of a micrometer seating die to reduce switch over time.

 

Originally I was looking at the Redding but for half the cost I could get a hornady seating die with their micrometer stem.

 

Is the for my purpose is the Redding worth the extra money? Is there something I’m overlooking that I could also do with my current LEE die that I could do for less?

 

Thanks

 

Sean

 

 

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For what we do in USPSA I found the competition seater die to be overkill. Plus the oal varied more than it did with a cheap Dillon seater. Then I found folks who took the guts out to decrease oal variance. Heck with that!

  I use a Redding Pro seater. It cost $30 and has micrometer threads. I found it easy to get used to how much adjustment it needs for various bullets. 

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If you're considering buying a second die, you could just buy a 2nd 9mm die and swap them out when you change bullet types. That will be even easier than a micrometer. Obviously not as reasonable if you have like 5 bullet types, but it's pretty manageable for two bullets.

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Sarge,

Is there a place on the die I could mark with a sharpie or something to estimate the two different bullet depths?

 

Slvr

 

that is a good idea! Could mark the threads and lock rings to get them to the right place every time. Cheaper than second tool head setup which was my first, expensive, idea.

 

 

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I was also looking into one of these. I’d like to be able to change depths.

 

But more importantly is there anything that will improve the seating depth consistency? If I set it at 1.1420 in the first round then load 50, I find the overall lengths to range from 1.1400-1.1480 with a stock 1050 with Dillon dies.  

 

I was also looking into the Redding micrometer seating die but it sounds like that would make the oal variance worst. 

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I've been running the Redding Competition Die for at least 10 years and have had good results. The OAL variations haven't been anymore than other dies, and the ammo I've been producing with it has been accurate and reliable. What got me into it originally was the micrometer dial since I was buying whatever bullets were most affordable at the time, which had me switching between three or four brands, and the OAL differed from one brand to another. I was married at the time, so I had access to finger nail polish in a variety of colors. What I did was get the OAL dialed in for each bullet I was using and then put a dot of nail polish on each micrometer setting. I knew red was the BBI 124gr, pink was Precision 125gr, and so on and so on. At any rate, the Redding die and, and that system worked really well for me. Now a days, I don't bounce around between bullets brands, but I am still using the Redding die because it still produces good results.

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5 hours ago, Wheelsonly said:

I find the overall lengths to range from 1.1400-1.1480 with a stock 1050 with Dillon dies.  

 

Sort down to one headstamp of brass (go grab 50 “WIN” cases for example) and dump those in your hopper, load, and check the OALs. Brass is the 2nd biggest reason for OAL inconsistency... right behind imprefect human cycling of the handle. If your OALs shrink to .003 then you know your press and dies are doing their job and shellplate is tight enough. What’s left is all in the raw material (brass and bullets varying.)

 

I was also looking into the Redding micrometer seating die but it sounds like that would make the oal variance worst.

 

I’ve used Dillon and a Redding Micrometer die. I’m back to the Dillon. The Redding in collecting dust.

 

;) 

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I really like the Hornady seating die.  It is consistent and easy to adjust.  I only use it for seating, not crimping.  I put small colored dots on the strm to show the positions for different bullets.  It repeats nicely.

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I bought the Redding micrometer seating die and I would get readings +or- .005 and it drove me nuts.  Then I separated by headstamp and the readings were pretty much perfect.  I don’t know why same headstamp made the difference but it did.  So if you need the oal +or -.001 you have to sort, if you load different bullet profiles it’s still nice to record your setting and get pretty close.  If you sorted you’ll be within a thou.  For our game not really necessary.  There is a you tube video by “knowledge to you” and he goes through the steps to set up the die and it’s really good.  The die not only sets repeatable oal, but also seats the bullet straight and also keeps the brass perfectly vertical if you set the bell so the die contacts it during the operation.  It’s pricey but I think it’s worthwhile for the convenience that you get.

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To take full advantage of the Redding competition pro seater you should get the tool head clamp kit from uniquetech. Tool head movement increases OAL variances. I found the best results with the pro seater, tool head clamp kit, Montana Gold FMJ bullets, same head stamped brass, and a slower but consistent pull on the press handle. OAL of +- .002. BUT it makes no difference for the uspsa competition shooter. This drive to reduce OAL variances will drive you to drink too.

 

 

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4 hours ago, rooster said:

I bought the Redding micrometer seating die and I would get readings +or- .005 and it drove me nuts.  Then I separated by headstamp and the readings were pretty much perfect.  I don’t know why same headstamp made the difference but it did.  So if you need the oal +or -.001 you have to sort, if you load different bullet profiles it’s still nice to record your setting and get pretty close.  If you sorted you’ll be within a thou.  For our game not really necessary.  There is a you tube video by “knowledge to you” and he goes through the steps to set up the die and it’s really good.  The die not only sets repeatable oal, but also seats the bullet straight and also keeps the brass perfectly vertical if you set the bell so the die contacts it during the operation.  It’s pricey but I think it’s worthwhile for the convenience that you get.

The reason sorting makes a difference is because different head stamps have different characteristics and those characteristics influence how deeply a bullet will be inserted into the case.

Cases made from brass that is "stiffer" or "thicker" or in some way provide more resistance to insertion will load to a longer OAL than "softer" or "thinner" brass will.

For example: Blazer brass has a much "softer" feel when sizing than CBC brass. That is at least partly because the case walls of CBC tend to be thicker and because Blazer just seems "softer". Yeah, I admit those are very subjective descriptions so fire away if you don't like that sort of thing. :-)

Here is an experiment, I admit that I haven't run it but now I'm curious so I just might: Sort out 10 to 20 cases of Blazer and 10 to 20 cases of CBC. Load 'em up. I'll bet that the OAL of the Blazer is consistently less than the OAL of the CBC.
 

 

 

Edited by ddc
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Since I am a seasonal .45 ACP shooter, I use the Dillon seater. It probably has not been adjusted since I gave up 200 SWC about 10 years ago. I just use whatever 230 Gr RN that I can find and if it falls (and it always has) within 1.240-1.250", life is good.

 

I am feeding 9 MM to an open gun and a couple PCCs with numerous changes in bullets and OALs. I use the Redding die (and the UT micrometer on the powder measure). I really don't chase OAL variations as long as it falls within +/- .005. And it does. It is nice to change the press for a different load in about 10 seconds...

 

Both approaches produce fine USPSA pistol/PCC ammo. Are there cheaper ways to go? Yup. But for me, after using the seater, powder mic, bullet feeder and hundo, I would never give up my "unnecessary" accessories. ;)

 

Later,

Chuck

 

 

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On ‎2‎/‎1‎/‎2018 at 3:58 AM, soundlzrd said:

 

I’m am starting to load two different bullets on a regular bases. Both coated lead, one is 124 and the other 147. I was toying with the idea of a micrometer seating die to reduce switch over time.

 

Originally I was looking at the Redding but for half the cost I could get a hornady seating die with their micrometer stem.

 

Is the for my purpose is the Redding worth the extra money? Is there something I’m overlooking that I could also do with my current LEE die that I could do for less?

 

Thanks

 

Sean

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

I measure the length of the adjustment screw sticking out of the die with a dial caliper.

This is doing the same thing on a powder measure, no need for a micrometer stem:

 

BestPicSmall.jpg

 

Edit: I do the same to factory crimp dies, bullet seaters, die bodies, etc.

        I just write the reference measurement in my reloading log and it's easy to get back to.

        If the screw is domed, I spin in a drill and grind it flat...

:D

Edited by Kenstone
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I measure the length of the adjustment screw sticking out of the die with a dial caliper.
This is doing the same thing on a powder measure, no need for a micrometer stem:
 
BestPicSmall.jpg.fe950fd050466cef565b9bc3941d4524.jpg


That’s a good idea!


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9 hours ago, Kenstone said:

I measure the length of the adjustment screw sticking out of the die with a dial caliper.

This is doing the same thing on a powder measure, no need for a micrometer stem:

 

BestPicSmall.jpg

 

Edit: I do the same to factory crimp dies, bullet seaters, die bodies, etc.

        I just write the reference measurement in my reloading log and it's easy to get back to.

        If the screw is domed, I spin in a drill and grind it flat...

:D

I did something similar with the Dillon seater. I would take out the insert and measure the depth of the die in the tool head and spin it out/in accordingly. Got pretty close. Knob is easier ;)

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  • 4 months later...

I just ordered the hornady micrometer but havent received it yet. I may be wrong about this but from what Ive seen online it appears the die has the hashtag measurements but is just sort of a dial and not a clickable type incremental turn. I ordered the hornady micrometer stem to use with the hornady 2in1 crimp seating die.

 

I know Redding has the micrometer stem but does anyone know if Redding has a 2in1 crimp seating die? 

 

Googling it only shows one page as having such and on that it only lists it actually being available for the 380 caliber. So Im left wondering if they actually sell this product or not

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OAL variation is contributed to by a number of factors.  A consistent pull of the lever on your end goes a long way to reduce OAL variation.  Having the press mounted to a bench that is itself absolutely rigid and bolted to a wall will reduce OAL variation.  Using the cases sorted by headstamp, so that they flex to the same degree under force, and spring back to the same degree -- that reduces OAL variation. 

 

But there is also the issue of variation in the lengths of the bullets themselves.  Certain seating die anvil press down on the nose of the bullet, and others have hollow/concave anvils that bypass the nose and press on the ogive/cone.  The greatest part of bullet length variation occurs in the nose (the exception is FMJ, but every other bullet type, greatest variation is in the nose).  So when you bypass the nose with an anvil that seats off the ogive/cone, that  variation in the nose shows up in OAL variation.  Note that if you seat off the tip of the nose with a flat anvil, that variation is taken out of OAL, and instead that variation shows up in seating depth (how deep the bullet base is seated into the case).  How deep the bullet is seated into the case has a real ballistic effect.  How far the nose is from the headstamp (which is all OAL is) does not have a ballistic effect. 

 

SO while there is an understandably logical drive to get OAL as consistent as possible, it's more important to get the seating depth as consistent as possible.  It's the seating depth that alters ballistics.  TIghten up your bench, use a a hollow anvil that seats off the ogive/cone, and don't worry about variation in the OAL (within reason).

 

If you want to see what your OAL variation really is, take an FMJ, seat it, pull it (and pad the inside of the puller if using a kinetic pullet so as not to ding the bullet), then resize the case, and seat the same bullet in the same case again, and then do it again, then do it again, then do it again.  And measure each time.  THAT is your OAL variation.  Measuring your OAL variation with different bullets and cases is a measurement of the consistency of the bullet and case manufacturers, not YOUR OAL variation.

 

But again, tighten up your bench, get your arm moving consistently with each pull of the lever, get a seating die that seats off the ogive, like the Redding Pro, Redding Comp Pro, or Hornady New Dimension, and don't worry about OAL variation. ;) 

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