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Muffin top issues part II


sasquatch981

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Decided to load some 9mm today, and came up with about 16- rounds out of the first 60 loaded that look like this.  Very frustrating.

 

Dillon 650

DIllon sizing die

Dillion seater die

Lee Taper Crimp die

 

This all happens at the seating station.  I have set the crimp per the manual at 1.10"  I have loaded with the seating die insert set to "both" sides of the bullet profile and it does with both.  The factory crimp makes them look a little better, but still have the muffin top.

 

What could it be?  There is no insert in the seating die that can be adjusted other than the profile doodad that is either set to one side or the other.

IMG_1589.jpg

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It's a little concerning that your mixing crimp and OAL, but if this is happening during the seating process you don't have enough flare on the case prior to seating.  The powder measure funnel/case expander looks to be the only way on a 650 to increase the case bell so I would gradually reduce the powder measure height until the bullet can be seated without damaging the plating.

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7 hours ago, HesedTech said:

Odd looking brass color, what kind of casing are you reloading? Are you possibly trying to reload poly coated steel casings?

Agree, they truly look odd, way too dark for brass (unless it is aged outside .....), they look more like coated steel.

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They look like lacquered steel cases. Almost too shiny to be old brass cases, but with pics I could be wrong. What does the stamp on the bottom of the case say? If they are brass, I'd suspect the flare is too small, so I would expand it a bit. 

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The reason why I’m asking about the metal composition is steel may not bell easily and when a bullet is pressed, especially with plated, the steel will not give and expand suffiencently thus pressing the plating (or coating) up the lead core.

 

If you’re not sure, as it has been written, use a magnet to check. I have actually had brass plated steel cases and they get rejected.

 

The problem showing is really odd, even for not having enough bell.

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On ‎1‎/‎13‎/‎2018 at 3:14 PM, sasquatch981 said:

Decided to load some 9mm today, and came up with about 16- rounds out of the first 60 loaded that look like this. 

IMG_1589.jpg

 

Are the other cases the same color? Or are all 16 out of the 60 look like this? Like mentioned above, it looks like you're mixing steel with brass cases during reloading. The steel cases are not turning out while the brass cases (the other 44) are turning out correct. 

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I have been reloading for the past 15-years or so.  The cases are definitely brass.  Mixed head stamp, federal, win, etc.  They have old case lube on them, and have not been through the wet tumbler.  The color is off from the phone and the shop light.  I never had this problem with MG's, but with the new bullets, and some moly-coated bullets started having this issue.  I'll try more bell tomorrow.

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9 hours ago, sasquatch981 said:

I have been reloading for the past 15-years or so.  The cases are definitely brass.  Mixed head stamp, federal, win, etc.  They have old case lube on them, and have not been through the wet tumbler.  The color is off from the phone and the shop light.  I never had this problem with MG's, but with the new bullets, and some moly-coated bullets started having this issue.  I'll try more bell tomorrow.

Yeah, true Jacketed you hardly have to flare much at all. If you switch to coated or thin plated you have to flare quite a bit more.

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  • 2 weeks later...
3 hours ago, 57K said:

If the plated bullets are .356" D. all you need to do is remove flare and bring the case-mouth to "neutral" D. You can do that without detriment when you're seating bullets so long as the case-mouth isn't trying to dig into the bullet. I would not use a LEE FCD with over-diameter bullets in particular (I wouldn't actually use them, period). To find what the "neutral" case-mouth D. should be just measure case thickness within 1mm of the case-mouth, double that dimension and add the average D. of the bullets you're loading. ;)

I would assume that to be correct if one sorts head stamps as the sum would change with each different head stamp, right?

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15 hours ago, 57K said:

 

Yep, to get the least amount of variation for case-mouth D. and OACL. Most American made brass is pretty close to the same and add to that Fiocchi, GFI and a few others. One of the reasons I use the .0015" dimension for 9mm taper crimp is because even within a single brand case-wall thickness can very by 5 ten-thousandths, or .0005", so things tend to even out, and then there's some variation cause by slightly different length cases.

 

CBC, PPU, Aguila, S&B of late and REM with the new headstamp will be thicker, and there are others. If you're using .355"  jacketed bullets, seat and crimp in separate operations if you're going to taper crimp. For .356" bullets the extra .001" of D. translates into greater case-neck tension. So long as the seat/crimp die is set only to remove flare and set the case-mouth D. to it's neutral position, it won't have any effect on OACL since the case-mouth isn't trying to bite into the bullet as it's being seated.;)

Bingo, thx!

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20 hours ago, IGOTGLOCKED said:

Bingo, thx!

Add Tulammo and Perfecta to the list of really thick brass in 9mm. Just last night I neglected to sort those out of my loading steps, and with 147 grain Blue Bullets, I was getting the awful bullet bulge near the middle of the brass. Didn't even come close to chambering.

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