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New shadow 2


Majority1775

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Da is 7.5 to 8 lbs

SA is 2.5-3 lbs

smooth as my performance Center 686, very nice can’t wait to goto range.  Bone stock...any suggestion on springs recoil and trigger pull adjustment type springs?

 

Did an OAL Check and it shows I could max out with 1.19 with a 147 RN.  Magazines maybe 1.15...So I’m loading to 1.135 and going through charges with Titegroup and Bullseye.

 

superb gun so far...will update later once I’ve got her dialed in.  And sights setup for particular load

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33 minutes ago, rowdyb said:

 i use the 13# main spring from czc.

Do you find that one gives a smoother pull than the CGW 13?  I want to run the 13 for reliability. Don't want to worry about light strikes. The CGW 13# one I'm running is kinda stiff at the beginning of the trigger stroke. 

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2 hours ago, rowdyb said:

many change the front sight out with a thinner dawson one.

 

11# recoil spring, czc or wolff. and 8,5# cgw main spring if using federal only. 11.5# cgw if using others. i use the 13# main spring from czc.

Which of the Dawson sights do you recommend?  

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Rowdy will the 13 ms lighten up DA pull?  And not affect SA....2.5 avg is pretty sweet

 

Any idea what’s the stock recoil spring?  I use 11 in my 1911 9mm so that sounds right

 

i want to keep it as stock as possible, not make major changes just get a little softer DA and flatten it a bit.  10% improvement for nominal spring input.

 

any idea what a 10X bushing would/could do for me?  Is it worth it to do it now or after a couple thousand rounds?

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15 hours ago, B_RAD said:

Do you find that one gives a smoother pull than the CGW 13?  I want to run the 13 for reliability. Don't want to worry about light strikes. The CGW 13# one I'm running is kinda stiff at the beginning of the trigger stroke. 

i think that's a function of the hammer as well.  like usual, polish the heck out of the strut the spring rides on. take the 13# spring and clip 1 or 2 coils off of it (putting the cut end down when you reassemble) or take the 13# spring and lightly hit it on a belt sander around its circumference. all tricks i've used and seen used in the past.

 

12 hours ago, Majority1775 said:

Rowdy will the 13 ms lighten up DA pull?  And not affect SA....2.5 avg is pretty sweet

 

Any idea what’s the stock recoil spring?  I use 11 in my 1911 9mm so that sounds right

 

i want to keep it as stock as possible, not make major changes just get a little softer DA and flatten it a bit.  10% improvement for nominal spring input.

 

any idea what a 10X bushing would/could do for me?  Is it worth it to do it now or after a couple thousand rounds?

the 13# will do what you ask, a little lighter DA pull and not messing up your SA. and like b-rad said, you'll have ZERO thougths about a light strike or not having sufficient hammer speed. (and my own personal pet peeve in that the 8.5# is a crutch for folks who cant or wont learn good DA trigger technique)

i can't remember the stock numbers. they're in other threads....

i like the 10x bushing in mine. it was relatively cheap and easy to do. i don't think it is required though, at all.

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Got the bullets loaded with TG and BE...20 rounds of 3.2, 3.4, 3.6 each.  Tuesday, potentially Thursday.  I really want to shoot it outdoors for these but it’s 20 degrees here...hopefully it warms up to 40.

 

rowdy...yes I agree I plan on pulling the DA millions of times in practice I don’t need to make it sub 5# and fragile.  I don’t consider it cheating, I just don’t want to cheat myself of the practice behind the gun.  I’m going off my SW 686 work as a guide...I put a $15 Wilson Combat spring in it and it dropped DA from 10# to 6# and I didn’t go with the lightest new spring offering.  Still lights CCI primers...just a touch of improvement on DA...then I’ll rely on practice for improvement on top of that.  

 

10X accuracy isn’t improved for $60?  Looks like it’s an asswhip to freeze it all and install.  Just want to make sure it’s 10-15% increase if not I’ll stay stock and be a better shot from practice...lol

 

Good thing is...I’m not getting into the “Tweak race” with this one.  I’m talking 2 springs...and tons of trigger time.  I friggin hate constantly adjusting this or tweaking that with negative results.  This one is going to be just a used 99% stock piece of machinery.

 

Thanks for your help, watched your videos on YouTube...good shooting

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Other than putting the bushing in the freezer for 4 hours the bushing job took less than 20 minutes in entirety. (But I'd done one before and I'm comfortable doing anything to my gun that can be done with hand tools) And yes, accuracy was improved. And it seemed to fit in a logical continuum of accuracy stock to 10x to accu.

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All groups were good but 3.2gr Titegroup CCI SPP and 147gn Berry’s Roundnose were the best.  2” at 10yards and 4” at 25yards (off the rickety bench and no chair). I assume that’s where the increase was gained.  Not slow fire.  I assume if it wasn’t 30 degrees and I took more time I could’ve done better...but for a Box stock gun I couldn’t be more pleased.  Couple springs will tighten controlled pairs...lot more dryfire and plenty of range time.  I don’t think I did the gun justice...I bet this gun could cut those groups in half given more time, it feels inherently accurate.  

 

Jeez Louise you CZ guys have been holding out, this is a whole ‘nother world.  I enjoy this gun and will begin ammo production and see y’all next year in the matches!  

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Furthermore...I was same holing the 3.2 TG batch of 20.  I was worried I had screwed up my reloads and had a dud.  But not the case...I triple checked all my loads so no squibs.  So that’s 2” and 4” groups of 20....if you cut it down to 5 rounds I’d say the gun is capable of .5” groups and 2” groups respectively.  Amazing machine!

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On 12/31/2017 at 3:03 PM, Majority1775 said:

Da is 7.5 to 8 lbs

SA is 2.5-3 lbs

smooth as my performance Center 686, very nice can’t wait to goto range.  Bone stock...any suggestion on springs recoil and trigger pull adjustment type springs?

 

Did an OAL Check and it shows I could max out with 1.19 with a 147 RN.  Magazines maybe 1.15...So I’m loading to 1.135 and going through charges with Titegroup and Bullseye.

 

superb gun so far...will update later once I’ve got her dialed in.  And sights setup for particular load

 I just got my Accu-Shadow 2 and am reloading - question, how did you measure the OAL ? I want to be sure I load optimum for my chamber.

 

My first CZ. Always been a 1911 and 'other' SA/DA (Sig, Beretta, S&W) - but i'm super impressed by this gun.

 

loading Berry's 115gr plated RN now at 1.1450 with 4.9gr CFE Pistol. About to run a batch of 124 gr , figured I'd dial in the OAL if I can figure out what optimum is for this baby.

Edited by OptimiStick
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2 hours ago, OptimiStick said:

 I just got my Accu-Shadow 2 and am reloading - question, how did you measure the OAL ? I want to be sure I load optimum for my chamber.

 

My first CZ. Always been a 1911 and 'other' SA/DA (Sig, Beretta, S&W) - but i'm super impressed by this gun.

 

loading Berry's 115gr plated RN now at 1.1450 with 4.9gr CFE Pistol. About to run a batch of 124 gr , figured I'd dial in the OAL if I can figure out what optimum is for this baby.

the optimum oal for your gun is the plunk and spin test in your barrel. Take the barrel out of your pistol. hold it vertical with the chamber end up. Drop a completed round in. Does it drop in easily and fully. The "plunk" part of the test. Then grasp the rim and rotate the case, does it spin freely?

 

If the answer is yes and it seems to be in the area widely reported by others with the same gun and bullet you're probably good.

 

You also test if it's a good oal by loading into a mag and cycling the gun by hand, checking for function.

 

Then take your calipers and measure 5 cases and take the average. This is what goes in your notebook and on your label as the oal for that particular load.

 

I will "waste" 5 to 10 cases when first developing a load doing dummy loads to set belling (for my bullet feeder mainly), seating (oal) and crimp.

Edited by rowdyb
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I used the video on YouTube...guy takes a rod covered in blue painters tape.  Puts rod in Gun all the way to breechface, while in battery.  Makes mark on rod.  

Guy takes barrel out of gun, puts in specific bullet he wants, I.e 147 flatpoint and holds it in contact with rifling with a pencil.  Guy inserts blue painters tape rod again from barrel crown and takes second measurement.  

 

That’s how I got my chamber depth for max oal.

 

that doesn’t factor magazines or feeding issues...I go through as many as it takes to get it to 100% reliable.

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I choose a popular 1.135 or something less than the max overall.  Then begin moving up in 5 thousandths...1.140....1.145...if it hits at 1.150...then I start backing off in one thousandths...until I can feed into mag and into chamber 100%.  I might take another thou off just to make sure the variance in my shoddy reloading is accounted for...lol

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On 12/31/2017 at 4:38 PM, rowdyb said:

many change the front sight out with a thinner dawson one.

 

11# recoil spring, czc or wolff. and 8,5# cgw main spring if using federal only. 11.5# cgw if using others. i use the 13# main spring from czc.

 

What size front sight do you recommend? I’ve been using stock. 

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I know you’re asking Rowdyb this...but I don’t know why you’d need much thinner?  Stock post has good amount of light on either side to find it and fiber to use it.  This is one of the 10 stock items that helped me choose this gun, I see no need to change.

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