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Reloading 40 Polly coated bullet help!


nikdanja

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15 minutes ago, 57K said:

 

I don't remember the OP mentioning a problem with Glock Bulge. If he has no problems with jacketed using the dies he has, a bullet .001" or larger in diameter will just have greater interference/tighter fit. Using cast or coated, there has to be enough flare to keep from shaving lead.

 

And, IMO, the best thing to do with brass that has the Glock bulge is recycle it. You only remove the bulge cosmetically: you do nothing for the area of the brass that has been structurally weakened, but that has nothing to do with the OP's issue. ;)

I never said he had problems with the bulge...but normally, people use the U-Die to get rid of any Glock brass problems...if he gets rid of the U-Die, he will probably get the Glock bulge problem again...the U-Die is the sizing die anyway...the powder/flare die is after the U-Die...so it shouldn't have anything to do with shaving the bullet...

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14 minutes ago, 57K said:

...there are several "bulge busting" type sizing dies...

And he listed his U-Die as his sizing die...which is prior to the flaring die...which as I said, should have nothing to do with his problem...
The other way to solve the Glock bulge is the Factory Crimp Die, which would be after seating die, which could be his problem...however, he does not list this as one of his die...so I would say that that is not his problem...


Glock bulge is another problem and another discussion for another thread...

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Exactly. And there are several "bulge busting" type sizing dies. Bulging has been an issue since the .40 S&W was released in 1990 when I first started shooting and loading it. However you address it is up to you, but one of the first tech reports I read after Ka-Boom issues began was the fact that removing the bulge is only a cosmetic remedy. The structural strength of the brass in the previously bulged area remains compromised. Combine that with inadequate chamber support and that previously bulged area ending up over the feed ramp at the 6 O'Clock position and you run a greater risk for Ka-Booms. In my case it's simple and I've never had any issues with .40 S&W loads. I don't use uber-fast powders, I don't shoot Glocks or any other make that does not adequately support the case-head, and when I pick up brass at the range, it it has any indication of being previously fired from a Glock, it goes into the recycling bucket. [emoji6]


Impressive. How do you sort Glock brass that was processed and shot out of a different gun? [emoji6]
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2 hours ago, 57K said:

 

Since I don't shoot Glocks I'm most likely to collect brass from them picking up after I shoot. If it's .40 S&W I just check the primer signature first. The unique signature that Glock's leave on primers make them easy to identify if you don't run into a couple of other identifiers first. Triangular scar at the case-mouth where cases have struck the ejection port, or the dreaded bulge. Considering the price of brass these days, they are worth keeping and recycling. ;)

Please read what fortyoverunder is actually asking/saying:

i.e. - I picked up Glock brass, I processed it and shot it out of my non-Glock gun...you come by and pick up my brass...there are no indication that my brass was shot out of a Glock...unless you are picking up your own brass that you had from the beginning, there is no way for you to tell if the brass was ever shot out of a Glock...you reload it...now, you have just as much a risk as if you picked up brass that was just shot out of a Glock...

 

I'm sure there are millions of brass that was shot out of Glocks that are being reloaded without a problem...there are a few that went ka-boom, but having reloaded ammunition in a brass that was shot out of a Glock was not the problem...and the ka-booms were shot out of Glocks, not non-Glocks with supported chambers...


I agree with tcazes...not enough of a risk to sort out Glock brasses...

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On 12/12/2017 at 8:26 AM, racerba said:

The U-Die is for the brass, not the bullet...Bullet type doesn't matter...it gets rid of the Glock buldge...

You will have plenty of neck tension with a standard resizing die and won't need to repeatedly over-flare the brass for oversized bullets.  Bullet matters. 

Increased neck tension is why I use a U-Die.  

 

Glock solved that Gen1 smiley issue a long time ago.  Unless you are shooting next to an old school Glock-man you are good to go.     

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On 12/15/2017 at 5:23 PM, Yeti said:

 

You will have plenty of neck tension with a standard resizing die and won't need to repeatedly over-flare the brass for oversized bullets.  Bullet matters. 

Increased neck tension is why I use a U-Die.  

 

Glock solved that Gen1 smiley issue a long time ago.  Unless you are shooting next to an old school Glock-man you are good to go.     

I thought bullet/neck tension happens at the crimping die, not the sizing die.  The U-Die is the decapping die and it sizes the brass closer to the head, thereby getting rid of the Glock bulge.  Bullet size/type doesn't matter at the sizing die because it happens before the flaring of the brass with no bullet involved.  I believe you are thinking of the Factory Crimp Die that goes after the seating die and replaces the standard crimping die.  There's no flaring involved with the U-Die...so there's no concern with over-flaring the brass at the U-Die station.

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8 hours ago, racerba said:

I thought bullet/neck tension happens at the crimping die, not the sizing die.  The U-Die is the decapping die and it sizes the brass closer to the head, 

Sizing provides the bulk of the neck tension. Over crimping can actually reduce neck tension.

 

while a U-die does size lower on the case it also sizes the case smaller. Hence the “undersized” moniker.

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