First Time Reloading .40 Questions

[Steppenwolf]

I finally got a Hornady AP progressive press and a .40 cal plate and die set. Cleaned everything per instructions including die set (set up for small primers and pistol meter gauge. De-primes, feeds primers well, and drops powder well (tested 4.2 grains of Titegroup) and got about six or seven similar readings on my Hornady digital scale. I did some test loading to get OAL with 180 grain FMJ bullets set correctly. I'm initially loading OAL to approximately 1.127 (same as Federal 180 gr. FMJ) which my STI Edge runs well.

 

I tested five rounds (without any powder nor primer) in them in the barrel of the Edge ("plink test"). Some of the reloaded rounds dropped in and out easily. A couple dropped in, but did not fall out until I tapped the barrel. I did run six rounds (no primer or powder) through manually and they all ejected.

 

First question) Should the plink test be done with a primer and powder charge (weighs a bit more)? I think I have the bullet seater die set up correctly. I had to use Berrys .401 180 grain FMJ Round Flat Points (only local FMJ .40 cal bullets available). Have some XTreme 180 grain .40 FMJ on order.

 

Second question) I'm using the Edge for USPSA Limited. I'm going to start out with 180 gr. FMJ at OAL 1.127 with 4.2 grains of Titegroup for testing. I do have other pistol powders. Any suggestions for other recipes for Limited USPSA 180 gr FMJ Flat Point?

 

Thanks

[Hi-Power Jack]

1 hour ago, Steppenwolf said:

  Some of the reloaded rounds dropped in and out easily. A couple dropped in, but did not fall out until I tapped the barrel.  

 

Sounds like a good plan.

 

The Plunk Test gets a passing score if :    1.  the round PLUNKS into the chamber (fully chambered), and

                                                                          2.  spins easily while fully seated, and

                                                                          3.  drops out when the barrel is inverted.

 

Your Plunk Test did NOT get a passing score, despite being the same OAL as Federal factory ammo.

 

I'd shorten it a bit, and try it again.

 

AND, if you change bullets (even same manufacturer or weights) I'd run The Plunk Test again.

 

Good luck with it    

[rowdyb]

Are they passing a separate case gauge? What is your "crimp" measuring?

 

You could have a perfect oal but without removing enough bell flunk chamber checking.

[Steppenwolf]

Thanks for the replies. I'll check the bell tomorrow--in looking over the rounds now that you mentioned it that might be the issue.

[Steppenwolf]

Update. Given the advice above (thanks again) I finally figured out that following the instructions in the Hornady DVD that came with the AP press regarding setting up the bullet seating die did not work well for .40 180 grain. I had to turn the bottom of the die (not the OAL sizing knob) more than recommended to resize the case better. Approximately 50% of the finished rounds were "plunking" previously, but 10 out of 10 plunked after re-adjusting the die.

 

I hope to try some actual rounds soon. I guess like anything in life you gotta wade through the learning curve even if you follow the instructions meticulously.

[DougM]

If you are using range pick-up brass, you will eventually run into some that have slight bulges near the web due to being shot in a barrel that may not fully support the case.  These will invariably fail the plunk test.  The earlier Glocks (but not the newer) were notorious for this hence the nickname "Glock bulge".   Seems to be unique to 40S&W.  If you are only using your own brass, then you will not likely encounter this.

[StuckinMS]

I also use the hornady press.  I recommend getting a lee u die for sizing.  If you get some glock fired brass you will be happy you did.

[Steppenwolf]

Thanks for the suggestions!

 

I tend to only use my own brass, but good advice to know.

[rowdyb]

Now that you're removing enough bell to chamber reliably pull a bullet or two and look at the projectiles to ensure you're not doing it too much.

 

A crimp that pierces plating or coating will yield poor accuracy. There is a fine balance middle ground.

[Steppenwolf]

Thanks for the advice. After slowly processing some more rounds and plunk checking I discovered that I had the expander die (second die) set a "tad" too much. After adjusting and putting just enough expansion to seat the bullet I was able to get better results. About 4 out of the last 16 finished rounds did not quite "plunk" all the way in into the barrel (almost). So I'm getting close, but 75% is not good enough.

 

I've learned that I'm going to be spending a lot more time learning. I didn't think the "balance" between the various dies was going to be as difficult.

[jo jo]

On 11/25/2017 at 1:02 PM, StuckinMS said:

I recommend getting a lee u die for sizing

I to have switched to a U die, prior to the U die I was getting bullet setback with R-P 40 brass, now I no longer use R-P brass with 40sw , I still prefer the U die to help ensure I do not have setback issues again. 

I would advise that after you have your die's set and achieve 100% pass with plunk and function also make sure that you can not push the bullet in the case deeper with your thumb,  

[Dr Mitch]

Your recipe looks good. Use coated bullets from Blue Bullets, BBI, SNS, or Gallant

 

[zzt]

Glock'd brass is also a 9mm problem.  I run all Hornady dies in 40 in my LnL, except for the crimp die.  I use the Hornady seater without crimp and use a Lee Factory CARBIDE crimp die.  That die sizes the bullet on the way down, crimps and sizes again on the way up.   Everything chambers, including Glock's brass after I added that die.

[Steppenwolf]

Thanks for the replies. I now get almost all rounds to drop into the barrel all the way, but some don't drop out as freely as I'd like, but I'm thinking that I need to perhaps clean the brass a bit more and try One Shot Case Lube as well.

[GrumpyOne]

You should remove the lube before chamber checking, so right now, them not dropping out is not because of no lube. I suspect that they are very slightly bulged for your barrel, or you haven't removed enough of the bell/flare.

[StuckinMS]

52 minutes ago, Steppenwolf said:

Thanks for the replies. I now get almost all rounds to drop into the barrel all the way, but some don't drop out as freely as I'd like, but I'm thinking that I need to perhaps clean the brass a bit more and try One Shot Case Lube as well.

You can get a Redding carbide gx push through die that will allow you to do so with loaded ammo.  Or just push all your brass through first and then reload with a lee u die.  I pick up brass at my local police range for free and run all of that glock brass through that very same process and haven't had one fail the plunk test yet. I loaded over 40,000 .40 cal this year!

[72stick]

This is just my experience and your mileage my vary. Early on in my reloading experience I tried Titegroup behind 180g plated bullets in my .40. To make major power factor, the recoil impulse was uncomfortable and I noticed my strong hand wrist was bothering me after a match. Titegroup over the chrono gave me wide standard deviations. I moved over to 180g powder coated bullets and the slower burning WST powder. Recoil is noticeably softer and I don't have any discomfort in my wrist after a match. WST brought my std div down to the low teens and I even saw a few rounds in the single digits. That's getting into the range of rifle ammo consistency. Maximum spread is also in the low double digits with WST. I'm not a big fan of plated bullets anymore because of their pour accuracy. Powder coated cast bullets are more accurate and cheaper too.

[Steppenwolf]

Thanks for the feedback. I have some WST. I've ordered some Blue Bullets to try as well. The learning curve will require trying out different powders, etc.

[CHA-LEE]

Invest in a Single Stage press and get the GRX Push Though die setup. Push Though size all of the 40 brass before you reload it and this will dramatically decrease your "Plunk Test" failures due to brass problems.

 

Since you are new to reloading I would suggest you ask for some help/guidance in reloading best practices at your next local match. Experienced local shooters would be more than willing to come over your house and go through the proper reloading process with you as well as troubleshoot whatever issues you currently have.

[dsu96]

Another thing I have found when reloading is, with my new blaster, .401 bullets would randomly fail the plunk test (regardless of OAL) whereas .400 bullets would work flawlessly.

[DougM]

I do the same as Cha-Lee by putting all my brass - including those out of my gun - through a push-thru die in a single stage press as the first step after tumbling and I rarely have a plunk test failure any more.   By the way, I've found that lubing the cases makes this go much easier.  I can easily push thru 400 - 500 cases in half an hour so it isn't a real issue to me.  

[Steppenwolf]

Thanks for the feedback. I own a Hornady single-stage L&L press (bought it last year for eventual .223 rifle re-loading). So investment already made. Several local USPSA shooters that I know reload so hopefully I will get some pointers.

Edited November 29, 2017 by Steppenwolf

[dsu96]

If you haven't done so already, check out 76Highboy's youtube channel.  He has several videos on there related to the LNL press...they helped me to get mine dialed in.

[StuckinMS]

8 hours ago, dsu96 said:

Another thing I have found when reloading is, with my new blaster, .401 bullets would randomly fail the plunk test (regardless of OAL) whereas .400 bullets would work flawlessly.

Dido that.  Mine did the same

[Steppenwolf]

Thanks for the Highboy link. I ordered the GRX Push Through to use on my single stage press. I also think that, per the advice just mentioned, that the Berry's .401 180 grains are part of the issue. I have a batch of XTreme 180 gr. FMJ FP and Blue Bullets 180 gr FP coming soon (per Black Friday sales and specials). They are both .400 bullets.

 

Thanks again to everyone for the feedback.

Edited November 30, 2017 by Steppenwolf