Slide to frame fit

[Chillywig]

Question 

 

How tight should a slide and frame fit together? I'm shooting a CK 9mm with about 6k rounds thru it today and have always felt it is a little tight. If I take out the barrel and recoil spring it takes close to 4lbs to move the slide past the cocked hammer. My Trubor is less than half - granted it has more rounds thru it. Just wondering? 

[Chillywig]

[drewbeck]

Take the disconnector out and try it and confirm it’s the same.  Usually there can be a higher force needed to push it down and let the slide start moving.

 

i think the “correct” answer from Jerry’s manual is that the slide should fall free from slide under its own weight

[Chillywig]

That got it down to about 2.5lbs...

[drewbeck]

Was it just cerakoted? If so it’ll loosen in short order.

 

also check the wear pattern on slide and frame and see where it’s tightest. If it’s reliable it’s nothing to worry about but it seems like it’s still a little tight

[Steelix]

1 hour ago, Chillywig said:

That got it down to about 2.5lbs...

 

My CK has 4K though it and is just as tight. The guns are very tight, maybe a little to tight. 

[Chillywig]

1 hour ago, drewbeck said:

Was it just cerakoted? If so it’ll loosen in short order.

 

also check the wear pattern on slide and frame and see where it’s tightest. If it’s reliable it’s nothing to worry about but it seems like it’s still a little tight

That's the factory finish. It's reliable just doesn't seems as slick as it could be. 

[Chillywig]

6 minutes ago, Steelix said:

 

My CK has 4K though it and is just as tight. The guns are very tight, maybe a little to tight. 

I had expected it to loosen up more by now. Maybe need to put a whole bunch more rounds thought it. ?

[Steelix]

1 hour ago, Chillywig said:

I had expected it to loosen up more by now. Maybe need to put a whole bunch more rounds thought it. ?

 

Yep maybe buy 10k rounds it will be loose. 

[Dranoel]

Field strip it. put a liberal coating of your favorite oil on the frame rails and the slide rails. Give both sets of rails a liberal dusting of powdered graphite. Put the slide on the frame and work it back and forth by hand about 100 times. Give the rails another dusting of graphite and reassemble it. Take it to the range and put 2-300 rounds through it. Give it a good cleaning and oil as normal. Bet you $10 to a donut that makes it slicker than anything you've shot.

[PaladinPrecision]

My question is how hard is it to move the slide on the bare frame, remove barrel, safety, disconnector, sear, hammer... Then if it runs smooth with nothing installed. I would look to the disconnector tunnel. I bought reamers to smooth out the disconnnector bore cause almost every 2011 /1911 that I have had a pin gauge fails to go all the way through the hole. However they make them they always have a stepped bore and or a bur that can be fixed with a properly sized reamer. Doesn't increase the overall diameter, just makes it uniform and the disco slides better. 

I would take dyekem and coat all of the parts and slide, recoil spring rod where it's widest etc. Then shoot it. and see where it's rubbing. paint disco too

 

[ACree]

Is it reliable? Does it shoot well? If so, I would not worry.

[abb1]

On 2017-11-25 at 2:06 AM, CCG said:

Is it reliable? Does it shoot well? If so, I would not worry.

+1, reliability is key! If it goes bang every time, carry on!

[Chillywig]

On 11/18/2017 at 9:55 PM, Chillywig said:

It's reliable just doesn't seems as slick as it could be. 

 

[abb1]

2 minutes ago, Chillywig said:

 

Again, I wouldn’t worry about if it shoots reliably. 2000 more rds, and it will be slick

[Chillywig]

On 11/19/2017 at 5:28 PM, Dranoel said:

Field strip it. put a liberal coating of your favorite oil on the frame rails and the slide rails. Give both sets of rails a liberal dusting of powdered graphite. Put the slide on the frame and work it back and forth by hand about 100 times. Give the rails another dusting of graphite and reassemble it. Take it to the range and put 2-300 rounds through it. Give it a good cleaning and oil as normal. Bet you $10 to a donut that makes it slicker than anything you've shot.

I haven't tried this but sounds like its worth a shot.

 

Or just keep putting rounds downrange. Both sound like fun 

[ACree]

I haven't tried this but sounds like its worth a shot.
 
Or just keep putting rounds downrange. Both sound like fun [emoji3]

I am guilty of this as well because I like things to be a certain way, but we spend a lot of time and money altering things that feel better when we are just manipulating the gun that we never notice or have zero affect while shooting.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

[Dranoel]

On 11/28/2017 at 10:42 AM, Chillywig said:

I haven't tried this but sounds like its worth a shot.

 

Or just keep putting rounds downrange. Both sound like fun 

 

Meant to mention before; When you take it to the range wear an old shirt and bring some shop towels. Oil and graphite will start leaking out and making a mess. I've used this treatment on several 1911s and even use it in the lockwork. The result will astound you.

 

Besides everyone needs an excuse to shoot more.

 

Edited November 29, 2017 by Dranoel

[scottlep]

Do both guns have the same shape firing pin stop? Meaning are they both rounded off where it cocks the hammer or is maybe the CK squared and the Trubor is rounded? Most STIs I have seen come with a rounded. Not sure what CK uses. If the CK is squared, or not as rounded as the STI, that will make a huge difference in the amount of force needed to rack the slide/cock the hammer. Many smiths and shooters will play with the shape of the firing pin stop to change how the gun feels during recoil since a more squared firing pin stop will take more force to cock the hammer, thus slowing down the slide much earlier in the recoil cycle. Difference in the force needed to rack the slide could also be the difference between say a 15lb and 18lb main spring. Just throwing some things out there to check that haven't been mentioned yet.

[Steelix]

Yes I know about going lighter on main spring. I have tried a 17lb and I was having a hard time with Winchester primers WSR, light strikes so went back to the 19lb spring. But that was one the gun was real new and super tight. 

[magpulled]

1 hour ago, Steelix said:

Yes I know about going lighter on main spring. I have tried a 17lb and I was having a hard time with Winchester primers WSR, light strikes so went back to the 19lb spring. But that was one the gun was real new and super tight. 

Since the gun runs I wouldn’t mess with it. It will free up after you’ve put some rounds through it. FWIW,  I think a 17lb hammer spring should ignite any of quality primer. Are you sure your primers were seated deep enough. Might try the 17 again and see how it acts. 

[zzt]

A 17 lb. main spring with a Ti firing pin usually will not ignite CCI primers, and often will not work with Win primers.  I use SS firing pins for just that reason.

[Steelix]

I think my problem with light strikes from the Aftec not hold the round tight to breach face. And that's why I need to keep the 19lb main spring in it. 

[echotango]

An aftec does/should not hold the round against the bf. Your issue is elsewhere. I have no problems with a 15# ms.

Edited December 21, 2017 by echotango

[Broncman]

Have you measured your headspace? Have you measured the cases with light primer strikes?

 

In 9 mm, I have saw cases with almost 15 thou difference. Take a very short case at say .740 and a head space on the larger side, say .754+ and that is a good distance it must push the case. .754 is SAAMI minimum, so headspace can be even more!