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Getting my first press tomorrow and have a couple of questions


vnboileau

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I'm getting a Lee turret kit tomorrow, along with primers and bullets.  I've also picked up a couple pounds of powder.  But I've got a couple of things I'm curious about.

 

I've ordered SNS coated bullets, 125rn and 147fp.  The SNS site says to load them using lead bullet data.  So, are loads for RN, LCN, FP, all interchangeable (referring to powder amount, not OAL)?

 

And when it comes to OAL, do you stick to the load data, or try to match it to your pistol?  Or something in between?

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On OAL, you want to run The Plunk Test in Your gun/mags.

 

See how far out you can seat the bullets and they still fit in your mag, and when you

drop the round (no primer or powder) into your chamber (barrel out of gun) there is

a PLUNK which indicates the round has fully seated.   Then, you should be able to

spin the cartridge easily and the round should drop out easily when you turn the barrel

upside down.   If you can't, the round is too long for your chamber - shorten it a bit.

 

If you are loading 9mm minor (standard velocity) OAl will have very little, if any,

to do with velocity/pressure.  Unless you load VERY short.

 

Yes, the shape of the bullet shouldn't affect velocity either.

 

If you're new at this, you should also pay attention to "crimp" - not actually 

crimping the round like you would with a revolver cartridge  -  but removing

the bell you created to seat the bullet.

 

Also, I'd start with light loads and work up slowly with a chrono.

 

What powder are you using ?

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HP-38 is almost the same as Winchester 231. That is what I load in 9mm start at the stated overall length then adjust it longer if needed. Bullet weight will be the same data start at the bottom end and slowly work up. Welcome to reloading!!

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vnboileau,

 

Haven't seen any updates. As others have said I would go with the HP38. And I would start with the 124g RN bullets. As far as seating length it obviously has to be seated so that the case mouth is positioned on the bullet before the bullet starts to taper but not soo long that it will not feed or chamber. You should have (or get) a load manual this will get you in the ballpark.

 

For coated bullets it is my opinion easier to use a 4 pc die set for pistol. You haven't said but I will assume that you are using a Lee 4 die set with the factory crimp die?  Most pistol die sets including the Lee have a combo seat and crimp die. When using anything other than jacketed bullets back the combo die out a few turns then adjust the seating screw to the desired seat depth. By backing the die out you will disable the crimp function. Then use the 4th (crimp) die to just take out the belling or flair that your second die put in. What you don't want to do is double crimp or put too much taper crimp on your brass as 9mm headspaces in the case mouth and this will cause chambering problems.

 

FYI, it is case mouth tension that holds the bullet in place on a rimless cartridge, not crimp. Go easy with your crimp. I'm personally not a big fan of Lee dies but they are inexpensive and do work. Most other makes are 3 pc die sets so you have to buy an additional taper crimp die. A little bit of spray lube, while not required will make it smoother to run thru the resizing die. Don't exceed published powder loads.

 

Have fun be safe.

Edited by firewood
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On OAL, you want to run The Plunk Test in Your gun/mags.
 
See how far out you can seat the bullets and they still fit in your mag, and when you
drop the round (no primer or powder) into your chamber (barrel out of gun) there is
a PLUNK which indicates the round has fully seated.   Then, you should be able to
spin the cartridge easily and the round should drop out easily when you turn the barrel
upside down.   If you can't, the round is too long for your chamber - shorten it a bit.
 
If you are loading 9mm minor (standard velocity) OAl will have very little, if any,
to do with velocity/pressure.  Unless you load VERY short.
 
Yes, the shape of the bullet shouldn't affect velocity either.
 
If you're new at this, you should also pay attention to "crimp" - not actually 
crimping the round like you would with a revolver cartridge  -  but removing
the bell you created to seat the bullet.
 
Also, I'd start with light loads and work up slowly with a chrono.
 
What powder are you using ?
What he said. And my Lee lasted 6 months, then I went 650. I still use my Lee for load development and bullet changes of small runs, etc. Great initial press. Have fun, read a lot and go slow.

Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk

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5 hours ago, firewood said:

vnboileau,

 

Haven't seen any updates. As others have said I would go with the HP38. And I would start with the 124g RN bullets. As far as seating length it obviously has to be seated so that the case mouth is positioned on the bullet before the bullet starts to taper but not soo long that it will not feed or chamber. You should have (or get) a load manual this will get you in the ballpark.

 

For coated bullets it is my opinion easier to use a 4 pc die set for pistol. You haven't said but I will assume that you are using a Lee 4 die set with the factory crimp die?  Most pistol die sets including the Lee have a combo seat and crimp die. When using anything other than jacketed bullets back the combo die out a few turns then adjust the seating screw to the desired seat depth. By backing the die out you will disable the crimp function. Then use the 4th (crimp) die to just take out the belling or flair that your second die put in. What you don't want to do is double crimp or put too much taper crimp on your brass as 9mm headspaces in the case mouth and this will cause chambering problems.

 

FYI, it is case mouth tension that holds the bullet in place on a rimless cartridge, not crimp. Go easy with your crimp. I'm personally not a big fan of Lee dies but they are inexpensive and do work. Most other makes are 3 pc die sets so you have to buy an additional taper crimp die. A little bit of spray lube, while not required will make it smoother to run thru the resizing die. Don't exceed published powder loads.

 

Have fun be safe.

 

Yeah, I got a little sidetracked...

 

Finished putting together a workbench this afternoon, and plan to mount the press tomorrow.

 

I did a 4 die set from Lee...

 

And thanks for the tips, I'll keep all of that in mind

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I have a Lee CLASSIC Turret that I started with and picked up a Dillon 650 because I got a nice deal from a guy that moved up to a Dillon 1050.

I've told a few folks that if I actually had to sell one of them - I'd be keeping the Lee.  There are a few videos out there on fine tuning a few minor things - the most annoying part was getting that primer feeder to line up perfectly with the cup.  In the beginning, you WILL be dropping some primers on the floor.  I found that some carpet keeps them from bouncing into Neverland.

Once you develop a good process though, you can kick out 200 rounds per hour.

Since I rarely load more than that at a time, that is one of the main reasons I would keep it.

Not to mention that when I run into a minor screwup on the Dillon - I fix it with the Lee which takes up VERY little room on the bench.

Oh - get the Auto DRUM powder feeder also - it puts the Auto Disk to shame.  Best of luck.

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I don't mean to tell you anything that you might already know but a burning question I had when I started this endeavor was "do I trim pistol brass?"

 

The answer is no. As far as setting up your dies, the instructions that come with lee dies and the information in the lee 2nd edition load book are slightly at odds. If you have the book pay more attention to that over the sheet that comes with the dies. The wording in both are confusing to the beginner. Not that RCBS or Dillon are any better.

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