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Drills and taps for 2011 frames


Broncman

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2011 CK frame . Drilling for the CMore Mount. Got the 5 holes center spotted with a carbide center drill. Got one hole drilled and the next hole ate 2 HSS bits.

 

Where do you guys get your small bits and taps for the scopes? Should I get some stub length straight flute carbide bits or would some Cobalt be fine. What taps are you guys using.

 

This area seems to be very hard on this frame.

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While I haven't done a lot of drilling on guns, i've done a lot of drilling on stainless steels and other metals at work.  Not sure what tool/machine you have or RPM you can get but...

 

For tool life Carbide > Cobalt > HSS

Tool coating like TiN helps as well

Lubrication really helps (a light weight oil)

 

MSC Direct, Grainger, & McMaster Carr are all good websites to get cutting tools from in small quantities. 

 

As for Drill bit brands:  MAFord and Guhring have worked well for me and have pretty good customer service...like help you find what series of drill you should you use for your material/application.

 

Edited by uewpew
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Just now, Broncman said:

Relton Rapid Tap is what I have on the bench. Hardly ever do anything this small or hard. Will look for those brands.

 

So far, most of my stuff has come from Drills and Cutters, Kodiak and Amazon...

 

Use Grainger, Fastenall and McMaster Carr at work. Might take a look through their catalog.

 

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I just drilled some holes in a CK frame for cmore mount using a Kodiac brand .101 black oxide hss drill bit at 1875 rpm and a 2 ipm feed with moderate coolant flow after a small spot drill. Worked very well

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The ones I have done were started with a HSS center drill bit then finished with HSS TiN coated jobber drill bit. I use tap magic for cutting fluid and turn the drill bit at slow speeds (250 to 400 rpm) so as not to burn up the bit which dulls it very quickly. You should be able to do the holes you need with one bit.
I use carbon steel taps with tap magic so that way if one breaks it can be drilled out with carbide. You need to go real slow, reversing the tap often to remove chips, also make sure the tap is straight, if it isn't perfectly straight it will break much easier.

FYI if you use a HSS tap and it breaks it will ruin a carbide bit if you have to drill it out.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk

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I would use carbide drills and roll form taps. It depends what kind of set up you have. If you break a tap you can get it out with a carbide endmill with no problem. Or if your scared, take it to a machine shop and tell them burn it out with an EDM. 

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The bits I first got were very cheap and were supposed to be HSS. Got everything tapped tonight. Now just have to shorten my screws a little and I am done. 
 
Have a mill by chance?

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Yep. No lathe yet. Hopefully that will be soon. Got any tricks for shortening small screw easily in the mill?
 
Got an idea for a jig. If it works, will post it up.
Dremel with cut off wheel, or belt sander holding the screw with a pair of pliers is much faster.

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39 minutes ago, MrPostman said:

Dremel with cut off wheel, or belt sander holding the screw with a pair of pliers is much faster.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk
 

 

Yep. If you're good enough you don't even need to chase the threads with a file or a tap.

 

 

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3 hours ago, Broncman said:

Yep. No lathe yet. Hopefully that will be soon. Got any tricks for shortening small screw easily in the mill?

 

Got an idea for a jig. If it works, will post it up.

 

There's some good ideas in this thread:

 

 

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25 minutes ago, Broncman said:

That is basically what I am doing. Threaded plate milled to length needed for screws.

 

Ever tried to accurately grind a tiny screw with a pair of pliers!

i use this  method  most times and chamfer  the edge with  sandpaper by hand.

pliers can damage s. head

what type of lathe u ordered?

i have 2  bench lathes and bench mill.  german  made. 

Edited by yigal
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Broncman, 

 

I took a small piece of aluminum, about an 1" wide and a 1/4" thick - nothing special, a piece I bought at Fastenall for scrap. I drilled 4, #38 holes in it, then tapped the holes for the 5/40 threads. Now when I need to cut the four screws to length for either a frame mounted dot or a thumb rest, I insert all four screws into the fixture and cut them all to length at once together on the mill. Depending on how much needs to be removed, you will have to make a pass or two, but all of the screws come out the same length and with a nicely cut end that needs little attention. 

Edited by CCG
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3 hours ago, CCG said:

Broncman, 

 

I took a small piece of aluminum, about an 1" wide and a 1/4" thick - nothing special, a piece I bought at Fastenall for scrap. I drilled 4, #38 holes in it, then tapped the holes for the 5/40 threads. Now when I need to cut the four screws to length for either a frame mounted dot or a *thumb rest [generic]*, I insert all four screws into the fixture and cut them all to length at once together on the mill. Depending on how much needs to be removed, you will have to make a pass or two, but all of the screws come out the same length and will a nicely cut end that needs little attention. 

+1 excellent  

Edited by yigal
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3 hours ago, CCG said:

Broncman, 

 

I took a small piece of aluminum, about an 1" wide and a 1/4" thick - nothing special, a piece I bought at Fastenall for scrap. I drilled 4, #38 holes in it, then tapped the holes for the 5/40 threads. Now when I need to cut the four screws to length for either a frame mounted dot or a thumb rest, I insert all four screws into the fixture and cut them all to length at once together on the mill. Depending on how much needs to be removed, you will have to make a pass or two, but all of the screws come out the same length and with a nicely cut end that needs little attention. 

Did same thing with a little conversational CNC programing and it works like a charm.

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Cutting screws/bolts try this little trick: thread down a couple of nuts leaving the needed amount or threads for removal and lock them together.  Using the face of the outer nut as a guide use your cut off tool of choice to trim.  When you remove the nut this will help insure any slight thread damage is removed.  The nuts also allow a nice place to clamp with vise grips or a vise without hurting the fastener..  This can also be done using just a single nut for shorter fasteners..

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