Open Gun Comp Red LocTite Keeps Coming Loose

[jsoupene]

I am looking for suggestions on what type of thread locker everyone is using on their open gun comps.  I am currently using the red LocTite and it works fine for competitions but  it breaks loose when I am practicing since I am firing a lot more rounds through it.  Thanks in advance for your time! Jason

[Maximis228]

I have to re-locktite my comp 3-4 times a year using Red. I just do it. Haven't found a better solution.

[Toolguy]

I have better holding with 620 green retaining compound.

[Bkreutz]

11 minutes ago, jsoupene said:

I am looking for suggestions on what type of thread locker everyone is using on their open gun comps.  I am currently using the red LocTite and it works fine for competitions but  it breaks loose when I am practicing since I am firing a lot more rounds through it.  Thanks in advance for your time! Jason

 

Red Loctite breaks free at 500 degrees, when you practice, you shoot more rounds than a match and there is no cool down between sessions. In a match you shoot about 30 rounds every 45 minutes, even then you can get the barrel hot enough. It's even worse if you use an aluminum comp with a steel barrel. They expand at different rates so the different expansion rate coupled with the heat, makes the comp come loose even faster. I ended up drilling and tapping a setscrew into the comp to keep it from turning when it came loose. I wasn't real thrilled about doing that. I eventually went to an STI Trubor because the comp and the barrel are made from one piece of steel. If the comp comes loose on that, something horrible has happened.

[tyler2you]

I've had good luck using Loctite 620 with their primer.  However after having one clock on me at a major match this year, I installed set screws on my comped guns.

[zzt]

If your threads are tight, Red Loctite with primer should do the trick.  I thoroughly clean both threads, then clean again with alcohol.  I liberally coat both threads with primer and let it sit for a little bit.  While you are waiting, assemble the gun.  Coat both threads with Loctite and QUICKLY thread it onto the barrel and clock.  If you have done everything correctly, you'll only have 20-30 seconds to get the comp where you want it.  After that, you won't be able to turn it.

 

If your threads are looser, use a Loctite designed to fill voids.

 

Like B, above, I'm using Trubore blanks with custom comp cuts for my next two builds, for exactly the same reason.

[ogiebb]

are you using 271 Red Loctite ? I thing 263 Red Loctite is more oil resistant from what I understand.

[rishii]

There are 2 different red loctites

271 is high strength 

272 is high temperature and high strength 

 

ive had comps come loose using 271, never with 272

[echotango]

I use 272 and use 2 set screws. I typically will take it off and redo it once a year as I have had it come loose and had baffle strikes. 

 

[GlennRasch]

This is why i like the STI tribore barrel blanks and I mill my comp design ...... so you don't have this problem.... 

[open17]

I've had good luck with Loctite 603.    

[Service Desk]

16 hours ago, Toolguy said:

I have better holding with 620 green retaining compound.

 +1. Clean the threads with acetone and use activator, then screw it all together quickly.

[RonPogi]

Put locktite and set screws  solved problem. Thanks

[Honkeymcgee]

I put blue on the comp to barrel threads and red on the set screws. 

 

Just shot the hoser match down where I live this weekend. 50rds per stage, 300rds in one day with no issues. 

 

Did a couple practice stages the night before. 100rds in about 2-3 mins shooting a stage, reloading, and shooting again. 

 

Comp is still tight

[dcalvert]

Green 620  on my shorty's that are quite violent seems to work the best. You will need some heat to remove them.

 

dcalvert

[Braxton1]

After seeing how Rock-Sett works on rifle brakes, I am tempted to try that, but it's not without its downside.....  It is a ceramic-based adhesive and is completely unaffected by heat.  To remove it, you're supposed to soak the part in warm water.

 

  We had one that was so well glued that we started to believe that the factory had done a "pin-and-weld" job on it unnecessarily.  We had to send it back to the factory to get the brake removed.  That was after a 36 hour soak.