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Polish or not?


Weever82

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Yes.  Brownells sells slide track and trigger track stones for 1911 or 2011 guns.  I like to round over the bottom of the extractor a tad,  make sure the trigger shoe slides freely,  round the corners of the block retaining the firing pin for easier reinstall, etc.  You can also use flitz in the tracks and sit there working the gun. It will take longer though.  Do this on 1911 or 2011.  Not much to polish on the Tupperware guns other than firing group.

Edited by StuckinMS
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I polish contact points on my glocks.  The 25 cent trigger job as it is commonly called. Makes a difference in the smoothness of the pull IMO.  So would shooting 20K rounds through it though.  I think I have polished a feed ramp in a 1911 several years back. My 2011 open gun, I don't touch the internals.

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On my glocks, I also polish pretty much every moving part except mag release, slide & barrel.  I also will polish feed ramps & get rid of the sharp edges on them.  

In my sti, I polished feed ramp.  That was it.  

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On 8/20/2017 at 3:44 PM, Weever82 said:

Do you guys polish the internals of your guns? Or let time and rounds fired do it on its own...

 

Just a thought. Curious of your two cents.

 

Thanks for reading!

 

Weev-

Why wait?  I've never had a gun feel different after hundreds of rounds despite what I heard.  I have a few of the 6"  x 1/2" stones listed here:

https://www.midwayusa.com/polishing-tools-stones-hones-and-abrasives/br?cid=8828

 

A lot depends on the gun.  A 1911 or revolver trigger job is a much different project than a Glock 25 cent trigger job.  They're all fun projects with tons of YouTube how-to videos out there.

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I'm assuming you're talking about pistols, but if not this may be reIavant. I  have a vepr12 for my open shotgun, out of the box it would only run slugs and heavy buck loads reliably.  Forget about the light bird loads.  I took it apart multiple times and polished more parts every time.  After he first few times of polishing it would run most of the bird shot, but I always wanted it smoother.  Now, the thing has a super smooth (long pull) trigger, cycles the lightest of bird loads, and I actually throw in a heavy spring now when I run slugs.  As for polishing, you can definitely polish too much. My opinion, if there's a friction point, I want it to be smooth.  

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  • 1 month later...

I polished up the trigger bow, disconnector faces, sear spring, and used a stone on the trigger track on my Springfield loaded 1911. I also took any burrs off the feed ramp. I ended up with a crisp 4lb 2oz trigger and not a single malfunction in several thousand rounds.

 

I basically followed the videos Nic Taylor does:

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vTxwKxWVvis

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZyKhTsYfH6A&t=111s

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dpiMSZiutT0

 

A;; easy minor stuff to do. The trigger track stone from Brownell's was the final touch.. I may try Harrison's sear and hammer eventually, but right now I am very happy with the results of fairly minor effort.

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I did a four part video tutorial for YouTube detailing how to strip a Tanfoglio and fully polish the internals. (Search for “Tanfoglio Tuning” if you’d like to see.)

 

After selling the Tanfo and switching to a Walther Q5 Match, I detail stripped the new gun and fully polished the trigger mechanism and slide/rails before it ever got fired.

 

You can probably guess which camp I fall into. ;)

 

Edited by MemphisMechanic
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  • 1 month later...
  • 4 months later...
On 8/20/2017 at 8:05 PM, StuckinMS said:

 Not much to polish on the Tupperware guns other than firing group.

I must admit the I do have one of those "Tuperware guns" but what parts are included in the "firing group?

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Disconnecter, sear, striker, etc.  

2 hours ago, Bench said:

I must admit the I do have one of those "Tuperware guns" but what parts are included in the "firing group?

Each Tupperware gun is different, but if it moves, polish it.

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56 minutes ago, StuckinMS said:

Disconnecter, sear, striker, etc.  

Each Tupperware gun is different, but if it moves, polish it.

LOL, I'll be looking for those bright spots....

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 9/27/2017 at 5:52 AM, MemphisMechanic said:

I did a four part video tutorial for YouTube detailing how to strip a Tanfoglio and fully polish the internals. ;)

 

I don't shoot that gun but there's a BUNCH of information applicable to what I do shoot. Thanks!

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On 4/20/2018 at 6:53 PM, Bench said:

I must admit the I do have one of those "Tuperware guns" but what parts are included in the "firing group?

 

One of best things you can do is to put a few hundred rounds through the gun and a bunch of dryfire. THEN take it apart to polish it. You’ll be able to see the shiny spots on the otherwise dirty components.

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Just now, MemphisMechanic said:

 

One of best things you can do is to put a few hundred rounds through the gun and a bunch of dryfire. THEN take it apart to polish it. You’ll be able to see the shiny spots on the otherwise dirty components.

LOL.As I was watching your video I was writing down slide parts etc. like crazy and then stopped and wrote down 'polish the shiny parts'! Thanks.

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