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Powder bar instead of tool head


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I currently have two 9mm loads, one for my competition pistol and one for my PCC. These use different Bullet weights (Both blue) and powder charge. So, the two main adjustments are powder charge and COL.

Some have suggested setting up a second tool head with dies and powder drop/measure to expedite changeover.

For me setting the powder charge is the most time consuming aspect of going from one load to another.

So, I was wondering if it would be cheaper to just buy a second small powder bar and leave it set for the second powder charge.

So, to switch from PCC to pistol and viceversa, I only change powder bar, adjust COL, verify charge weight and start cranking Bullets.

BTW, I sort my brass so all other adjustments (crimp, bell, etc) remain constant.

Does this make sense? Any reason not to do it this way?

Thanks in advance.

 

 

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4 minutes ago, Balakay said:

Buy an Arredondo micrometer for your powder bar and a Redding competition seating die. You can accurately change your powder drop and COL in seconds

This is how I manage 4 bullets and 5 powder charges in 9mm. ;)

Edited by ChuckS
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I guess I'm just not that precise.   I run two different 9mm loads. I have marked the adjusting bolt for the seating die and the adjusting screw for the  powder measure with a black magic marker.  I know where each are lined up for both loads.

 

Cheap and simple.  Worked like this for years.

 

Bill

Edited by Flatland Shooter
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6 hours ago, Balakay said:

Buy an Arredondo micrometer for your powder bar and a Redding competition seating die. You can accurately change your powder drop and COL in seconds

 

 

Fastest way uniquetek makes a good one too 

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Micrometer and Redding seating die here too.  Just write down the settings.  2-3 throws and the charge is correct.

Same here (almost). I'm still using a powder check with an MBF, so need to seat and crimp in the last station.

Using a regular Redding 9mm combination seat/crimp die with a Redding #12 Bullet Seating Micrometer (Redding part #09072) installed. Works extremely well.

Currently testing a Prairie Dog micro-meter for the Dillon powder bar on a .357 head with no issues. The UniqueTek is certainly nicer, but it does cost more.

M


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Ok, 2nd powder bar is $24, uniquetek micrmeter is $80 and Prairie Dog's is $37. So, looks like the Pairie dog may be the best option.
As for COL, I made two dummy round templates that I just use to setup the machine.
Thanks all for all the great feedback.


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Ok, 2nd powder bar is $24, uniquetek micrmeter is $80 and Prairie Dog's is $37. So, looks like the Pairie dog may be the best option.

Certainly the cheapest!

When installing the Prairie Dog, you will need some retaining compound (Loctite #609 or #680). Not exactly something you can pick-up at your local Lowe's or Home Depot, so you may want to order it now so you don't have to wait (ahem, the way I did, LOL).

M


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On 8/5/2017 at 0:33 PM, Want2BS8ed said:


Certainly the cheapest!

When installing the Prairie Dog, you will need some retaining compound (Loctite #609 or #680). Not exactly something you can pick-up at your local Lowe's or Home Depot, so you may want to order it now so you don't have to wait (ahem, the way I did, LOL).

M


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Green loctite is included with the uniquetek kit. And you can get it for $70 if you shop around. 

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18 minutes ago, Livin_cincy said:

You can use your Digital or Dial Caliper to measure how far you have unscrewed the bolt and record it for any load in your personal loading manual for your guns.

 

Then you just turn it to that length and verify with your scale.  

When I used stock Dillon bolt it would move during a big loading session. Got tired of witness marks and readjusting every thousand rounds so I went with Uniquetek.

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You can use your Digital or Dial Caliper to measure how far you have unscrewed the bolt and record it for any load in your personal loading manual for your guns.
 
Then you just turn it to that length and verify with your scale.  

Cindy, I'm not sure I follow you on this one. Are you referring to the seating die or the powder adjustment bolt? The later does not move in or out.


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17 minutes ago, TitoR said:


Cindy, I'm not sure I follow you on this one. Are you referring to the seating die or the powder adjustment bolt? The later does not move in or out.


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The powder adjustment bolt.  Use a 6" Caliper across from the end to the bolt head.

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21 minutes ago, Sarge said:

When I used stock Dillon bolt it would move during a big loading session. Got tired of witness marks and readjusting every thousand rounds so I went with Uniquetek.

That would be irritating to have to ponder if it had moved on you.

 

After market to the Rescue !

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I do have low, medium and high strength loctite, so no issue there.


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Retaining compound is a different beast from thread lock. It has gap filling properties designed specifically for press fit applications, but then again given Foxbat's suggestion vvvvv it's not needed.

I hate that Locktite solution.  I drilled and tapped a small hole in the bar, there is enough meat in it, and put a set screw there. 


Brilliant. One of those slap your head, why didn't I think of that moments...

Thanks for the suggestion Foxbat.

M



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