Has anyone fit a 2011 frame to an existing 1911 slide?

[R34PER]

I am considering purchasing a CK Arms classic wide body 2011 frame and fit it to my Springfield Armory Loaded 1911. If anyone has read my previous thread I am looking to try out limited but have a limited budget. Has anyone done this? 

 

The lockup on my SA is fantastic, so my thought would be to adjust the CK frame's rails/lug to fit the slide/barrel. Is this possible? I know building a whole new gun you would typically fit parts the other way around.

 

One version of the parts list I was considering is:

• Wilson Slide Release
• Wilson Disconnector
• Wilson Ejector
• Wilson Hammer
• Wilson Mainspring Housing
• Wilson Pin Set
• Wilson Hammer Strut
• Wilson Plunger Tube
• Wilson Plunger Assembly
• Wilson Sear
• Wilson Spring Set
• Wilson Thumb Safety
• EGWJEM Grip Safety
• Pheonix Trinity Aluminum Grip
• CK Arms Classic Frame
• Wide Body Grip Brushings
• SVI 2011 Trigger + Insert
• STI 2011 Mag Release

 

The total parts cost would be around $800. Although I still haven't decided on a magwell and magazines yet. The lower would also be in .45acp to match the slide/barrel. I've read all the comments in the past regarding .45acp in limited and not looking to debate that here.

[Maximis228]

I think you are off by quite a bit in cost of those parts totaling $800. The PT Grip and CK frame get you to that number alone.

 

It can probably be done, but I highly doubt you will have a very tight 1911 left when you are done. You will be refitting the slide to a new frame. The slide will wear in differently on the 2011 frame VS the 1911 frame. If/when you decided to swap the slide back to the 1911 frame, you wont have the same fit and feel as you did before.

[Slostang]

PT grips and CK frames do not mix well. 

[tyler2you]

Probably the biggest issue will be with barrel fit.  The lower lugs on your barrel may or may not mate up well with the new frame.  You can pretty much guarantee that the lower lugs won't be locking up on the slide stop pin.  Best case is you will be "riding the link" which will work, but won't help in the accuracy department.

[tyler2you]

14 minutes ago, Slostang said:

PT grips and CK frames do not mix well. 

 

Yep, if you want an easy mate-up, best buy a PT or L10 Frame.  The CK Frame will require some handiwork with the file/dremel and a few hours of your time.

[echotango]

I have two PT EVO's. One on an sti frame and one on a ck frame. The CK frame was much easier to fit. 

[R34PER]

56 minutes ago, Maximis228 said:

I think you are off by quite a bit in cost of those parts totaling $800. The PT Grip and CK frame get you to that number alone.

 

It can probably be done, but I highly doubt you will have a very tight 1911 left when you are done. You will be refitting the slide to a new frame. The slide will wear in differently on the 2011 frame VS the 1911 frame. If/when you decided to swap the slide back to the 1911 frame, you wont have the same fit and feel as you did before.

PT aluminum grip(non evo) is $300

CK arms classic wide body frame is $200

[R34PER]

20 minutes ago, tyler2you said:

Probably the biggest issue will be with barrel fit.  The lower lugs on your barrel may or may not mate up well with the new frame.  You can pretty much guarantee that the lower lugs won't be locking up on the slide stop pin.  Best case is you will be "riding the link" which will work, but won't help in the accuracy department.

Why is that? Won't there be extra material on the frame that can be removed to match the barrel/slide?

[R34PER]

13 minutes ago, tyler2you said:

 

Yep, if you want an easy mate-up, best buy a PT or L10 Frame.  The CK Frame will require some handiwork with the file/dremel and a few hours of your time.

I'm fine with putting in extra time and work fitting things if the end result is quality. This is just for enjoyment.

[tyler2you]

57 minutes ago, R34PER said:

Why is that? Won't there be extra material on the frame that can be removed to match the barrel/slide?

 

There should be enough material on the frame rails to get a good fit to the slide.   As far as the barrel goes however, the primary fitting is done by removing material from the barrel's lower lugs and not by removing material from the frame.  Like I said above, you probably won't have contact between the lower lugs and slide stop during lock-up and your slide isn't going to be even with the rear of the frame.

[tyler2you]

1 hour ago, R34PER said:

I'm fine with putting in extra time and work fitting things if the end result is quality. This is just for enjoyment.

 

You can do that, but to what end?  You would simply be investing more time mating up the parts for no performance gain.

[RJH]

If you are on a budget, go with a used para, RIA, or CZ.  You can probably pick up any of those for under $1000, and they are 40 cal and hold 20+ in the mags so you are not starting out at a disadvantage.  I love 45 in SS but in limited, especially with STI mags, it is too much of a disadvantage.  I would use a glock or some other plastic pistol before I built a 45 limited gun, and I hate plastic pistols

[OPENB]

There was an incredible deal on GB for a EAA Limited with a ton of mags and extra parts that went for $825 the other day. Almost bid just because.

[Benevolence]

As tyler2you alluded to, you typically remove material from the frame on the sides of the rails, and remove material from the bottom of the slide to get a fit. If the vertical dimension of the rails don't fit, you're going to have to find a way to remove material from your existing fit slide or create a way to take off several locations on the frame (not really feasible without a special cutter on a mill). You're also going to run into issues with the barrel lugs & link length; you don't modify the frame to fit the barrel/link, you do it the other way around.

[KrymSIX]

As others have mentioned if you're looking at putting 800ish or more into this project you really should consider picking up an older Para or a used Tanfo Limited. For around a grand you can even pickup a used CZ tac sport from time to time. 

 

Any of those just seem like a better, more feasible option than trying to chop up a frame to get a poor fit on an existing slide and/or fitting an existing slide to the new frame and basically diminishing the usability of your existing 1911. 

 

Just my 2 cents, but for about the money you're looking at spending anyways you can get a gun thats ready to go, in 40, and probably with enough mags to get started (lots of used packages crop up on GB)