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Servicing Schedule?


Wesquire

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I replace the hammer, firing pin, and recoil springs on my Tanfoglio Limited right around the 15k mark. I have approximately 40k through mine so far and had to replace my sear and hammer due to hammer follow at 30k. Other than that, that's it. You may want to take into consideration on how "hot" your loads are. Mine are on the softer side since I only shoot reloads. I'm sure someone will be here shortly to chime in.


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Springs don't break, they just fade and get shorter and weaker. That leads to potential light strikes from the hammer spring. I do the 15.5# PD hammer spring about 15,000. At that point it's 2 coils shorter and probably equal to a 14# new spring. Since a 12# will set off my match ammo with winchester primers (in my gun), im way safe. But i also run wolf commie primers and sellier &bellot for practice. Those need a fresh 14 for reliable ignition, so my apprehensive side says change it.

 

Other springs get refreshed annually.  the sear, trigger and extractor springs get done before a major (a once a year thing). If you shoot a lot and have important maches 6 months apart, that would be a good timer.

 

Hard parts are generally very durable.  i have waaaaay more trigger cycles than zx9tr1 on my 1 piece sear / titan hammer. 10x at least, as it was da dry fired with a laser and computer program by me, my son and the pistol team i coach. They are only surface hard, i suspect his might have been polished thru the hard exterior. Or they just wore funny.

 

On tanfos, really just  keep the springs fresh and they seem to be very durable. But i still worry! And carry spares.

 

Hard part spares kit should have at a minimum;

All springs (even the FPB and mag release)

All pins (and the mag release plunger)

Ambi-Safety right side pin

Slide lever (common on cz, rare w tanfo)

Extractor

Firing Pin Block (FPB) pre-fitted to the gun.

 

I also have a wide selection of recoil springs, every hammer spring made, extra sears, hammers, triggers, trigger bars, safety levers, sear cages, firing pins, firing pin keepers plus punches and tools. Oddly, I've never personally needed parts at a match, but have made several people VERY happy. 

 

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3 hours ago, johnbu said:

Springs don't break, they just fade and get shorter and weaker. That leads to potential light strikes from the hammer spring. I do the 15.5# PD hammer spring about 15,000. At that point it's 2 coils shorter and probably equal to a 14# new spring. Since a 12# will set off my match ammo with winchester primers (in my gun), im way safe. But i also run wolf commie primers and sellier &bellot for practice. Those need a fresh 14 for reliable ignition, so my apprehensive side says change it.

 

Other springs get refreshed annually.  the sear, trigger and extractor springs get done before a major (a once a year thing). If you shoot a lot and have important maches 6 months apart, that would be a good timer.

 

Hard parts are generally very durable.  i have waaaaay more trigger cycles than zx9tr1 on my 1 piece sear / titan hammer. 10x at least, as it was da dry fired with a laser and computer program by me, my son and the pistol team i coach. They are only surface hard, i suspect his might have been polished thru the hard exterior. Or they just wore funny.

 

On tanfos, really just  keep the springs fresh and they seem to be very durable. But i still worry! And carry spares.

 

Hard part spares kit should have at a minimum;

All springs (even the FPB and mag release)

All pins (and the mag release plunger)

Ambi-Safety right side pin

Slide lever (common on cz, rare w tanfo)

Extractor

Firing Pin Block (FPB) pre-fitted to the gun.

 

I also have a wide selection of recoil springs, every hammer spring made, extra sears, hammers, triggers, trigger bars, safety levers, sear cages, firing pins, firing pin keepers plus punches and tools. Oddly, I've never personally needed parts at a match, but have made several people VERY happy. 

 

 

Any reason dry fire and live fire would wear the hammer springs differently? I do about an hour of dry fire a night and I do a full DA trigger pull each shot. Wouldn't be surprised if I'm at 100,000 pulls now.

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Dry DA and "wet" DA are the same wear wise (as far as i can determine).

 

I will give a suggestion. Change your practice routine.  First shot DA, then simulate SA on the rest of that string of fire.  otherwise you will ingrain a serious long trigger slap that will hamper  your progress.

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17 minutes ago, johnbu said:

Dry DA and "wet" DA are the same wear wise (as far as i can determine).

 

I will give a suggestion. Change your practice routine.  First shot DA, then simulate SA on the rest of that string of fire.  otherwise you will ingrain a serious long trigger slap that will hamper  your progress.

 

I've tried it and prefer DA. Doesnt seem to cause me to trigger slap in live fire. 

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This is a really timely question for me, since my extractor broke during the Boone match  (missed half of the match).  Of course, my overconfidence in my Tanfo led me to not taking a viable back up pistol...my fault I know.  Anyway, the surface looks like a fatigue induced brittle failure, which would suggest they have a certain number of cycles.  I'm going to carry an extra from now on...and a backup gun.  In the middle of the match, I think that a backup gun may be a better option.   You may not have time to fix much more than the extractor, slide lever or slide spring anyway.

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The barney mag is my choice too. The extractors seem to last about forever that way. Odd yours broke, but everything breaks!   looks like i may need to add one to the spares kit!

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1 hour ago, johnbu said:

The barney mag is my choice too. The extractors seem to last about forever that way. Odd yours broke, but everything breaks!   looks like i may need to add one to the spares kit!

Didn't know you were asking robport. My extractor hasn't broken.

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I shoot a Limited Pro, so no Barney mag necessary...but no, I don't drop a round in and let the extractor get pushed out by the round.  The broken surface just looked like cyclic metal fatigue with a brittle fracture at failure.  The grain structure looked like a MIM part.  I saw no evidence of plastic deformation.  I didn't see the missing piece though.  That's probably in the grass somewhere.

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