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550b Case Feeder


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On 7/6/2017 at 1:13 PM, MemphisMechanic said:

Also, I personally beleive the bench you currently use would be just fine - if you aggressively mount the bench top to the wall. The difference in rigidity that causes is even higher than you'd expect.

 

So, do you think I could fit a 650 on my bench along with the 550 if I re-arrange some stuff, like move the 550 close to the edge of the table? I'd prefer not to buy a new bench if I can help it.

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Definitely. I'd suggest loading a few rounds with the press(es?) C-clamped to the bench in order to test your spacing and layout out. At a minimum I'd want 6-10" of space on the left eside of a 650, and the 18" or so I want on the right could easily be the sum distance between it and the 550.

 

I find I enjoy space on the right side of the press more than the left. All I personally keep on the left of my 650 is a box of bullets which are placed directly below the bullet tray on my strong mount. Tools, bins in which to catch loaded ammo, scale, primer tubes, etc? I personally place all that stuff to it's right side.

Edited by MemphisMechanic
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I bought a case feeder for my 550 and maybe I got lucky but I've set it up once and haven't had to readjust anything. I've loaded about 12k on it so far.

 

Yes, from time to time brass will shoot out from the case feed plunger because the rim on the case has a bur and doesn't allow it to slide in the channel. 

 

With the case feeder if I load quickly with a solid push for the primer I can load 100 rounds in 6 minutes. A more relaxed pace puts me at around 8 minutes. This obviously is start and stop time with a filled primer system but even on a 1050, you have to fill primer tubes and then load them into the primer system.

 

One thing to remember with the case feeder is that it makes changing calibers a bit more cumbersome because now you need the caliber conversion for the case feeder too and may need to adjust the case feed cam arm. Definitely a point to remember since a big advantage of a 550 is the fast change overs.

 

I think you also need to take into account the overall time you spend on reloading. For me, I sort the brass, sort 100% every 9mm head stamp, wash in water, dry, tumble and then load. After I load, I wipe down/tumble the loaded rounds a bit to get the case lube off and the case gauge every single one with a hundo. 

 

In the end, I spend a ton more time on everything else besides the actual reloading part. So the rate of reloading doesn't really bother me that much. I also only shoot 15k a year so if you're shooting like 50k, that's a bigger difference.

 

For 20k, a 1050 at 1000/hr would take 20 hours. On a 550 with case feeder at 600/hr it'd take 33.3 hours. Is 13.3 hours a year really that much to focus on driving down? For me, no. I'd look to a 1050 for the benefits outside of just rate increase (priming on down stroke, swage capabilities, etc)

 

In terms of rate only, I think a 550 with case feeder can get close to a 650 with case feeder. Likewise a 650 with bullet and case feeder can get close to 1050 with bullet and case feeder. (Maybe someone with experience on these set ups has some input)

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On 7/7/2017 at 5:59 PM, 78Staff said:

Mine is actually bolted to the wall, but reality is with the weight I have on the bench and shelf below it really wasn't necessary, to be honest.  I just did it out of habit b/c I've always bolted reloading benches to walls studs.  By itself it's a fairly heavy and sturdy bench.  

 

Did you have to drill holes in the vertical legs of the Gladiator to anchor it to the wall or did you drill the holes in the horizontal cross member that the wooden surface sets on? If not where did you drill the holes? I have a Gladiator ordered from Home Depot, it's the hardwood top one (they tell me the hardwood one is birch). I'm hoping, it will be heavy enough and have enough stability that I won't have to anchor it to the wall.

 

Thanks again

Edited by GregInAtl
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On 7/17/2017 at 10:01 PM, GregInAtl said:

 

Did you have to drill holes in the vertical legs of the Gladiator to anchor it to the wall or did you drill the holes in the horizontal cross member that the wooden surface sets on? If not where did you drill the holes? I have a Gladiator ordered from Home Depot, it's the hardwood top one (they tell me the hardwood one is birch). I'm hoping, it will be heavy enough and have enough stability that I won't have to anchor it to the wall.

 

Thanks again

 

Actually I just drilled into the hardwood top and attached 2" L-brackets, and bolted into studs.  The wall panels cover them so you can't see them.

 

That being said, I am thinking about buying an 8ft as well and creating a L shaped bench, moving the shelves somewhere else.  I might get another 1050 so want more room :).  Probably cut out the carpet and just lay down some of that interlocking panel flooring as well... seems like there's always one more thing to do lol.

Edited by 78Staff
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  • 3 weeks later...

Like Fantom, I must have gotten lucky with my 550 casefeeder. I got it after finding modifications online that would let me feed .300 Blackout through the casefeeder. It sped up my loading significantly and had few hiccups.

 

I am looking to move on from the 550 with casefeeder to a 650 with case and bulletfeeders. (Can't keep the 550 due to Spousal Acceptance Factor issues.)

 

@78Staff, I have the same bench in my garage. I laid down the Gladiator plastic interlocking tiles (because I had extra Sears gift cards) and regret it. If you are going to stand on that floor for extended periods, look for something that has more give. I have a couple of the plastic foam mats that are supposed to go in front of the kitchen sink laid out to give my feet and knees a break. Also, I used the black and blue tiles to make a nice checkerboard pattern. Don't make that same mistake: anything dropped on the black tiles takes forever to find. Good luck on your new project.

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