Jump to content
Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!

Best Production Trigger Parts List M&P Go!


rootacres

Recommended Posts

I am entertaining jumping to a different gun for production and CO. I have always liked the ergos on the m&p line but have never owned one to see how nice I could get the trigger. It's basically the only reservation I have about owning one. Can some of the expiernced m&p owners throw out a parts list and what they are seeing from a feel and trigger weight standpoint? Thanks!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I bought a M&P 9mm Compact last summer and the trigger required two hands

to pull.

 

Had a smith install the Apex Carry trigger and the gun is a nice smooth 5.5 lbs  :)

I LOVE it    :wub:

 

I understand Apex also has a different trigger that brings it down to c 3 lbs, for

target shooting/competition.

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

This is what you want for Production:

https://store.apextactical.com/WebDirect/Products/Details/191850

The improvement is substantial!!

 

If you want to see how good the trigger on an M&P can be, these are the best trigger kits available (Though they are NOT production legal):

Flat Faced: https://store.apextactical.com/WebDirect/Products/Details/191836

Curved: https://store.apextactical.com/WebDirect/Products/Details/191845

Link to comment
Share on other sites

10 hours ago, Vizorn said:

>snip<

This is what you want for Production:

https://store.apextactical.com/WebDirect/Products/Details/191850

The improvement is substantial!!

>snip<

 

+1

This is what I put in my 5 inch Core for production. (the Competition Action Enhancement Kit). 

It keeps the pull under 4lbs ... and I have grown to really like it ... even with the factory trigger (required for production).

I also use an 11lb recoil spring (mine is a 40 and I load way down for production).

I purchased the "Reset Assist Mech" (supposed to make the trigger reset more noticeable) but never felt the need to install it ... I think "newer" models started coming with the "H" trigger bar which is supposed to give a little better feel in that regard (has a dimple or something).  

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I love the apex products. My advice is don't worry too much about weight. They pull in the 4-5# range but the feel is awesome. 

 

I think they roll back so smoothly. Not a glass rod single action break but very easy to shoot.

 

I don't mind the production versions (keeping the stock articulating trigger). If you have big hands and struggle to get your trigger finger to pull straight to the rear, the FSS (forward set sear) triggers put your finger in a much different position. I like them, but I don't think it's a game changer. It's all about finger placement. YMMV.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

4 hours ago, hlpressley said:

If you really want a nice trigger in the M&P, get Dan Burwell to work his magic! Incredible!  

Plus I would get the 2.0 version. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 5/14/2017 at 7:15 AM, Vizorn said:

This is what you want for Production:

https://store.apextactical.com/WebDirect/Products/Details/191850

The improvement is substantial!!

 

 

 

 

On 5/14/2017 at 6:08 PM, pete627 said:

+1

This is what I put in my 5 inch Core for production. (the Competition Action Enhancement Kit). 

It keeps the pull under 4lbs ... and I have grown to really like it ... even with the factory trigger (required for production).

I also use an 11lb recoil spring (mine is a 40 and I load way down for production).

I purchased the "Reset Assist Mech" (supposed to make the trigger reset more noticeable) but never felt the need to install it ... I think "newer" models started coming with the "H" trigger bar which is supposed to give a little better feel in that regard (has a dimple or something).  

 

This is what I run in Production same 5" core only difference is I run a 13lb recoil spring. Trigger on mine is around 3lbs. I am running 180 grain coated on top of 4.1 Win 231 PF of about 138.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

My Apex trigger job on a M&P Pro was nice but 1/500 shots was a dead trigger and there is robust experience with this odd phenomenon of the sporadic dead trigger the Apex mechanisms. That just won't work for a comp gun.  That was with the Apex trigger actually, which I used briefly but went to a visually 'stock' trigger for compliance purposes.

 

I had Burwell do a trigger on that gun and it never failed me. Very light crisp and good comp trigger.

 

I bought an M&P 2.0 5" and had Burwell do that one also altho it took awhile b/c they changed the trigger mechanisms enough that he had to re-design his process, I think.  End result is even better than the 1.0.  Short reset, light, crisp...as good a plastic trigger as I have ever had. Not comp-level 1911 but hey, it's a plastic gun. But the 2.0 won't auto-forward on mag insertion, and the 5" model comes with a safety for now.   This is my IDPA SSP and my USPSA Production legal gun now.

 

Burwell is admittedly hard to get ahold of, and that turns some off, but once he accepts your gun you will be pleased with result.

 

Q

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It's a reset problem that I think can be fixed with swapping out trigger springs but it's frustrating because it's very intermittent and hard to pin down. A search here or google should show these threads.... I'll admit it's one of those arguable phantom internet  facts that is hard to legitimize with data but it drove me crazy and I thought it was me but another guy in my in my club had same problem. 

 

I will look when I get back to a real computer.....

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Usually a dead trigger is caused by having  the old style sear block with the small sear spring.  Sear blocks are cheap, but if your really cheap you could always drill it out to accept the new larger spring.  

Edited by bigfish
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Actually, in my experience a dead trigger is typically an issue with the trigger bar loop needing opened or closed slightly.

 

The trigger mechanism isn't resetting even though the bar has traveled forward sufficiently.

 

Or, more commonly, pulling the trigger fully to the rear won't drop the striker because you need a pinch more overtravel. Racking the gun changes the tolerances enough to allow it to fire again. Most of the time.

 

APEX has a video out on adjusting it on YouTube:

Edited by MemphisMechanic
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Cool. Thanks for this. Now that Apex is here in Phx I could have dropped it off someday for a fix. Sadly I already returned this gun to stock parts with intention of having Burwell do his magic. Then the 2.0 came out and I moved on to that.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

the parts you need are the fss sear (only the sear), competition spring kit, and the "r.a.m" from apex. use the comp springs but note some times the sear spring wont work. i have one it works in and the other i had to keep the stock spring. once those are installed you'll see that you now have a great pull but about 1/2 in of over travel. if you have a performance center its an easy fix as it has an adjustable over travel stop. on my standard core i welded an extension on the trigger bar so it hits the sear block and filled it down till the trigger could then break. this parts setup gives the best trigger in my opinion. after that sometimes you need to mess with the trigger loop to get it to work right. you can lightend it more by cutting down the safety plunger spring or replacing it with apex's. If you dont have a performance center you might get there hole safety plunger kit my original post on this is titled fss in production. give it a search.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 5/19/2017 at 9:15 PM, bigfish said:

I think this video is addressing issues with the FSS kits where trigger has far less overtravel than the production legal AEK kit

 

Correct on what he's actually remedying.

 

However I can say from firsthand experience that a properly tuned loop with often fix a gun with an intermittently dead trigger. It's worked on two guns that I've worked on for friends.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

You can actually take out the over and pre travel as well as reduce pull weight without ever replacing a spring or part. Basically you can get excellent pre and over travel with reliable sub 3lb super smooth trigger pull with stock parts.

 

The issue is, it takes reprofiling the sear.  While most all are perfectly fine with polishing any part, taking a file and stone to a sear is something most steer away from.   

 

If someone wanted to try and do things in stages to see how each step felt. 

 

First I would do the following as its only cost is time:

 

* Radius the bottom edge and polish the sear plunger.  (you could order the apex plunger and just polish it as it has the radius profile already.) check and polish the plunger tube as well ensuring it's silky smooth with no burrs.

 

* Polish the trigger bar's sear contact points.

 

* Polish the firing pin striker end.  

 

*  Polish the contact points on the sear.  You could get the already reprofiled sear from apex and polish it.

 

A person could use the kit mentioned above, cek, and do all the above mentioned polishing..

 

I like to add the apex extractor to all m&p.

 

For a gun not limited by production rules the best feeling setup imo is the flat face forward set alum trigger kit and then do all the polishing mentioned above.  After that change springs as needed to get the pull weight you want, be it carry or Comp.  I have not felt a trigger outside a top tuned 1911 that beats it certainly not any poly framed gun.

 

  For a production setup you can have a trigger that is smooth and short of pre and overtravel (just not forward set) if you or someone else has the time and knowledge to rework the sear profile and do the polishing of parts.  If you keep the m&p stock trigger it has a bit of flex but it's less of an issue at smoother lower trigger weight and travel.

 

If a person has some time it's not a crazy cost to pick up a few gunsmith Sears from apex and practice. get a set of 1911 trigger stones and sag a 0 or 00 cut 4" pillar file.  To me the best is a combo of both apex parts and some minor gunsmithing..  A number of the comp springs in the apex kits are actually higher tension then stock i.e. decrease trigger pull weight.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...