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replace M&P sights -- DIY or gunsmith?

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I have a brand new M&P just gathering dust until I can get another set of M&P adjustable sights.

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9 inches is a significant deviation even with factory zero'd stock sights.  Not sure switching sights gets after the issue you are experiencing.  My question concerning your set-up is what size backstrap are you using, and have you tried a smaller size?  Additionally are you experiencing the 9 inch offset at 7/15/25 yards?

 

I say this because the issue may be related to heeling during the firing sequence, which will be exaggerated with a larger backstrap.  I went through a similar learning curve when dialing in an XDM 5.25.

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I installed a full set of Dawson sights on my 9L. Padded vise and brass punch made it a pretty easy job. I did have to use a steel punch at first to get the factory sight dislodged

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I recommend adding the apex kit of your choice while the rear sight is off if you ever plan on adding one.  The rear sight removal is the hardest part of the installation.

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On ‎8‎/‎6‎/‎2017 at 1:12 AM, Mushki25 said:

I recommend adding the apex kit of your choice while the rear sight is off if you ever plan on adding one.  The rear sight removal is the hardest part of the installation.

I'm trying now to remove the rear sight, using a padded vise and a brass punch.

So far I'm deforming the tip of the punch and not moving the sight anywhere.

Do I just need to use more effort?

The sight looks fine, just a little brass color on it. I tape up the tip after every attempt...

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I've had to use a steel punch and pretty significant whacks to get sights off some M&P's. Some are harder than other. Even with the steel punch the stock sights were still usable if I really wanted to keep them but I usually toss them in the trash anyway. 

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Posted (edited)

I have changed a few sights and added a few different trigger kits to my M&Ps as well as a number of guns from guys at my local club.  I did the first one with a steel punch since the aluminum one that came with the sight set got all sorts of buggered up.  I wrapped the steel punch in electrical tape, not sure if that really would help or not, and was super careful.  I was able to remove the old sight, install the Apex competition kit and add the new sight.  After that one I purchased a universal sight pusher.  The only thing bad about a universal sight pusher is everyone will now want your help or to use it.  Point being you may need to use a stronger punch or go all in and use a sight pusher.  Those rear sights come off hard. 

Edited by Mushki25

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I'm just trying to get them off to install an Apex USB.

Never wanted to trash the stock sight.

I guess I'll keep trying, a little harder at a time...

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5 minutes ago, mjkten said:

I'm trying now to remove the rear sight, using a padded vise and a brass punch.

So far I'm deforming the tip of the punch and not moving the sight anywhere.

Do I just need to use more effort?

The sight looks fine, just a little brass color on it. I tape up the tip after every attempt...

 

I have changed several sights. My Dad wanted me to drift the rear on his S&W, I tried all the usual tricks & failed, took it to a gunsmith who also failed (we did the little hammer-medium-large hammer progression) , sent it to S&W & they succeeded. 

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Doesn't exactly fill me with confidence!:lol:

My home 'gunsmithing' skills are pretty limited.

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Easy enough to do yourself....I use a sight pusher but could drift if I had to. If possible use a non marring brass punch.

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Posted (edited)

Use a large hammer and a steel punch that's at least 1/4" thick so it's less likely to slip or to bend, if you have to. I have an old piece of ~1/2" brass stock that I use as a punch.

 

Those tiny gunsmith hammers, or even a ~12-16oz claw hammer aren't suited for this task. Use a baby sledge so you don't have to swing for the fences and can still put some serious force into it with ~75% power swings where you still have accuracy and won't hit your thumb or the slide.

 

The factory sight is in there tight. Hit it like you mean it. Make sure you drive it out the right side of the gun - the side with the ejection port.

 

You'll do less damage to the finish on the factory steel sights (they're very hard and don't deform too easily) if you smack it a half dozen times really hard to break it loose, than if you spend a full day pecking and tapping on it with "non marring" brass and aluminum tools.

 

Edited by MemphisMechanic

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+1 get a bigger hammer. Mine were the tightest of any factory sights I have messed with. 

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OK. Bigger hammer did the trick. I used and abused a brass punch that  was a little larger than I thought to try using earlier.

Hit on it from the round end so the hex flat laid on the slide and squarely impacted the base of the sight at the dovetail.

Once I committed to heavy hitting, it went pretty easily.

Thanks for the info.

Mike.

 

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I used a large steel punch from harbor freight that I slipped a 9mm case over the end. Not sure if the brass case is harder than a typical brass punch but it worked well for me as I didn't want to wait to order in a punch.

 

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