LegionShooter Posted February 2, 2017 Share Posted February 2, 2017 I've gone through a ton of the Tanfo threads and I see a lot of people upgrading a lot of parts and a lot of polishing. I'm not interested in tearing the gun apart just yet with only 50 factory rounds through it. Very simply, I've worked some test loads today, and just need to know what recoil spring options I should be considering and is there anything that MUST be done in conjunction with a recoil spring change? 9 or 10lb recoil springs seem to be the best bet with my desired 132PF and 124gr projectiles according to most posts. Beyond that, is there anything I really NEED to do? I'd really like to run this thing a few matches before I start dumping more money into it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MemphisMechanic Posted February 2, 2017 Share Posted February 2, 2017 (edited) In my opinion: If I were to build a "budget gun" for a friend that prioritizes going bang with crappy ammo and s smooth trigger... over an ultra-light & short trigger? 10lb recoil spring Henning or Xtreme guide rod Dawson front sight .160 or .140 high Patriot trigger spring Wolff 15lb or EGD Medium hammer spring CGW Canik trigger pin (soooo much easier to take gun apart) And a full night's worth of polishing. Not to make it a lighter pull, but to enhance feeding and reliability with lightened springs. Edited February 2, 2017 by MemphisMechanic Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LegionShooter Posted February 2, 2017 Author Share Posted February 2, 2017 Haha, you said "budget" in a shooting hobby post... Seriously though. Thanks for the pointers. I'm all about getting this thing as racy as I can in Production, but I want to run a few matches first. Then understand what I really need and change those parts, then run again before the real test at Battle in the Bluegrass in April. I haven't shot Production since 2011 and then I was using a stock Glock 19 except for the sights. Looking forward to the difference with the Stock 2. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MemphisMechanic Posted February 2, 2017 Share Posted February 2, 2017 (edited) 4 minutes ago, LegionShooter said: Haha, you said "budget" in a shooting hobby post... A nearly stock gun in the hands of a guy who practices a lot is a very dangerous thing. Edited February 2, 2017 by MemphisMechanic Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ryridesmotox Posted February 2, 2017 Share Posted February 2, 2017 Run it bone stock original factory. I run a 10lbs recoil spring. Have since day 1 basically with 130pf loads. Apart from that, leave it for a few matches. Wherever you see bare metal, polish all that. I shot mine a ton the way it came from factory. After you do, then you will know what you want to change Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LegionShooter Posted February 2, 2017 Author Share Posted February 2, 2017 6 minutes ago, MemphisMechanic said: A nearly stock gun in the hands of a guy who practices a lot is a very dangerous thing. I completely agree. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ryridesmotox Posted February 2, 2017 Share Posted February 2, 2017 (edited) So we are all safe from memphis then... His gun isn't stock and he has it apart griniding and polishing so much that he has no time to practice. Edited February 2, 2017 by ryridesmotox Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MemphisMechanic Posted February 2, 2017 Share Posted February 2, 2017 (edited) 45 minutes ago, ryridesmotox said: So we are all safe from memphis then... His gun isn't stock and he has it apart griniding and polishing so much that he has no time to practice. Nice try. I'm quite certain my relative light regimen of 20-30 mins of dryfire a day is ahead of my "tinkering time" by at least 5 to 1. And you might as well delete that image before the Mods catch it, and smack you on the knuckles with a ruler again. PG-13 forum, and all that. Edited February 2, 2017 by MemphisMechanic Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
taxil343 Posted February 2, 2017 Share Posted February 2, 2017 Johnbu started a thread that covers exactly what you're wanting to know. It is titled "New Lim Pro - polish and PD springs only." I will leave a comment to bump it to the top. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LegionShooter Posted February 2, 2017 Author Share Posted February 2, 2017 9 minutes ago, taxil343 said: Johnbu started a thread that covers exactly what you're wanting to know. It is titled "New Lim Pro - polish and PD springs only." I will leave a comment to bump it to the top. Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnbu Posted February 2, 2017 Share Posted February 2, 2017 Everything in that thread is what you want. I would suggest an 8 and 10# recoil spring. try both, select based on feel. I run 8 with 132pf 135gr coated. Then a selection; PD 14 and 15 plus wolff 15 and 16 hammer springs. The wolff springs will set off high primers and eastern block primers with more margin. If your polish is good, tolerances are correct on the gun the PD are vastly better. (No stacking). You will need to plunk test uour ammo. Tanfo barrels have been short throated recently. They feed short rounds fine. I ran 15k at 1.060 oal. But had a ream done and load 1.125 now. #1 cause of light strikes has been related to plunk failure due to short throat. # 2 is primers not seated deep ( 0.005 - 0.008 below flush). While learning the da/sa using the strongest spring is smart. I'm sporting stout springs now to groove propper trigger control. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MacLethal Posted February 2, 2017 Share Posted February 2, 2017 The minimum I would do personally would be to change the recoil spring out to an 8lb and throw a fiber front sight on it. If that is as far as you want to take apart then leave it like that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SCTaylor Posted February 2, 2017 Share Posted February 2, 2017 All I've done is add an Xtreme Light FP Spring, 14lb PDO hammer spring, 10lb recoil spring, dawson FO front site, chambered reamed and some light polishing (sear cage sides, hammer sides & hole, sear pin hole). Also tried the stock grips, SSI scales, and finally settled on Henning smooth panels w/ grip tape. I've got about $70 in parts, $30 in chamber reaming and $80 in grips into mine. I don't personally feed the need to go further with the polish or change more parts. One day it'll happen but right now I'd rather dry/live fire than wrench. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LegionShooter Posted February 3, 2017 Author Share Posted February 3, 2017 I ordered a couple springs and Henning smooth grips earlier this week, should be here today. Already put on a fiber front sight. Last night I sat for several hours and did a polish job based on the suggestions on other threads. No before and after weights as I don't have a pull gauge, so I was going by feel only. Frankly the DA didn't seem different when I was done. The parts themselves interfaced much more smoothly, (no zipper action on the plunger, trigger bar polished up, etc), but I was expecting a bit lighter DA pull feel. The SA did feel a bit lighter/smoother though. Once the springs get here (10lb recoil, 14lb PD hammer, lighter trigger return spring from PD) I'll see what that does in conjunction with the polish. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MacLethal Posted February 3, 2017 Share Posted February 3, 2017 The hammerspring alone will make the DA a lot better. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MemphisMechanic Posted February 3, 2017 Share Posted February 3, 2017 (edited) You won't feel much difference. My gun dropped from high 11s to mid 10s - you will not feel that change with your index finger. You're probably going to end up around 6.75 to 8 pounds in DA with the gun finished. The remaining pieces that drop your trigger that final pound or two: 1 of sear, lighter sear spring? You don't really NEED those. But you have to expect to have a somewhat heavier trigger due to their lack. The benefit of the polishing work is a glass smooth trigger pull without grit or hitches in it. A smoooooooth 7 pound DA trigger is very shootable. My gun has one. Edited February 3, 2017 by MemphisMechanic Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mfs Posted February 3, 2017 Share Posted February 3, 2017 On 2/1/2017 at 6:11 PM, MemphisMechanic said: In my opinion: If I were to build a "budget gun" for a friend that prioritizes going bang with crappy ammo and s smooth trigger... over an ultra-light & short trigger? 10lb recoil spring Henning or Xtreme guide rod Dawson front sight .160 or .140 high Patriot trigger spring Wolff 15lb or EGD Medium hammer spring CGW Canik trigger pin (soooo much easier to take gun apart) And a full night's worth of polishing. Not to make it a lighter pull, but to enhance feeding and reliability with lightened springs. memphis is there any thing to know before trying it install canik trigger pin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MemphisMechanic Posted February 3, 2017 Share Posted February 3, 2017 (edited) If you aren't planning to strip the gun down, then yes. Drive the roll pin out of the trigger with a properly sized *roll pin* punch. Leave the punch through the frame so that the trigger and trigger spring stay aligned. (If you pull the punch out, the spring flies into the next county) ...And simply use a plastic mallet to gently tap the the CGW Canik into the gun - pushing the punch back out and leaving your new pin in the frame. Edited February 3, 2017 by MemphisMechanic Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnbu Posted February 4, 2017 Share Posted February 4, 2017 What fun is that? he'll be finished in under a minute! Lol. that is the fastest way to do it. You might need to wiggle the new pin some, but it's pretty straightforward. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tedahlenius85 Posted February 5, 2017 Share Posted February 5, 2017 Any negatives about changing the stock triggerbar plunger spring to a lighter one? Skickat från min iPhone med Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MacLethal Posted February 5, 2017 Share Posted February 5, 2017 Well, if you run a lighter plunger spring it can cause light strikes. It causes the hammer to fall prematurely in DA. If the gun is stock you should be fine, but if you do any add ons like a BOLO and hammer it could cause issues Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MemphisMechanic Posted February 5, 2017 Share Posted February 5, 2017 (edited) 3 hours ago, tedahlenius85 said: Any negatives about changing the stock triggerbar plunger spring to a lighter one? Hammer can fall early in double action. Trigger returns forward less aggressively and it feels mushy when it resets. Most of us run the stock plunger spring nowadays, and spend our time polishing everything it touches or applies pressure to instead. Edited February 5, 2017 by MemphisMechanic Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kneelingatlas Posted February 5, 2017 Share Posted February 5, 2017 5 minutes ago, MacLethal said: Well, if you run a lighter plunger spring it can cause light strikes. It causes the hammer to fall prematurely in DA. If the gun is stock you should be fine, but if you do any add ons like a BOLO and hammer it could cause issues The plunger spring has to do with the reset of the trigger bar, if the hammer is dropping early in DA, you've rounded off the disco hooks too much. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MemphisMechanic Posted February 5, 2017 Share Posted February 5, 2017 1 minute ago, kneelingatlas said: The plunger spring has to do with the reset of the trigger bar, if the hammer is dropping early in DA, you've rounded off the disco hooks too much. Or you're running a BOLO disconnector. They fit a pinch differently, and it's been a problem for a few guys who have done nothing more than polish the internals and paired a lightened plunger spring with a BOLO. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sniperboy Posted February 5, 2017 Share Posted February 5, 2017 I am in the same boat as you right about now, I would recommend a 1 piece sear also. It not only lightens the pull significantly due to eliminating an extra spring, I found that it makes your SA trigger pull crisper too. The 2 piece sear gave me a bit of creep in SA with the stock hammer. The 1 piece sear compared to the two piece sear using the same PDO sear spring reduced the DA by almost a pound. There seems to be conflicting anecdotes but for my Stock 2 the xtreme 1 piece sear did not facilitate a need to refit the safety using the stock hammer. If I recall correctly my stock firing pin block also remained functional. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now