Jump to content
Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!

Bolo install


Recommended Posts

ARy, do you know someone who has personal experience with not igniting anything with a henning pin? ROFL

Take it from someone who failboated a match like the Titanic. I was like Leonardo DiCaprio just sliding into the abyss. Stay with the standard firing pin until the PD pin comes out.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 59
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

9 hours ago, Sniperboy said:

Agh! Guilty as charged.  My fears were confirmed this evening when I found out I did just that - and the long leg of my sear spring is sheared off.  Luckily it doesn't affect function (it didn't even reduce my DA pull darn it), it just does not retain the thumb safety anymore which I suppose I can deal with in the short term since it does not fall out.  I have probably torn down my Stock 2 maybe three or four times now, getting a bit more confident thanks to everyone's help here.  Even had a close call where the plunger in the mag catch flew out and hit me in the eyelid...  I consider that a blessing in disguise.  Paul's youtube disassembly video helped and everytime I feel a panic attack, I take a deep breath and think in an Australian accent.

I want to go slow and have not put in the titan hammer, bolo or one piece sear.  I think a new sear spring is in order.  But I think I need to up my game since the first round of polishing and a 13 pound Wolff hammer spring is only getting me to 9.5DA & 4SA (identical to the weights before I polished and just changed springs).  But using a Henning XL firing pin I can light up CCI primers no problem. 

MemphisMechanic's 6.5DA & 3.5SA is still my goal.

MM, do you use a reduced power sear spring?  Yes I am still hung up on a tactile reset, but that's another thing I have to evaluate internally.

Does the one piece sear really contribute in reducing the DA?  Or is it for convenience and for the SA break?

Is it the Titan hammer that facilitates the need to fit a safety, or will the one piece sear alone need to be fit to a safety?

...or worse, is it a bad idea to just fit the one piece safety because if the titan hammer is installed after, it may not work in conjunction with the pre-fit one piece sear?

I suppose I can simply go down to a 10 pound hammer spring but want to do that as a last resort.  In the meantime I will reread MemphisMechanic's diary to see if I missed anything.

 

Sorry for playing 20 questions.  I have been reading up for 2+ weeks now so I don't try to ask questions that have already been asked, just couldn't catch the answers to these questions...  and sorry for the long post.

My gun is at a lighter DA pull than yours primarily because of the internals I've added. The 1-PC sear reduces pull weight because it deletes a second sear spring. Titan hammer has shorter and repositioned hooks for better geometry. Bolo does magic things. I'm not sure what, aside from an insanely awesome reset. ;) 

Just put all that in and go. Reset? Consider this: when finished, the trigger resets... and stops moving forward. It's forty times more obvious than the reset click in a Glock. It becomes a 1911: in SA, the trigger now only moves between reset point and where it fires, like this:

 

Also yes... I have reduced power springs in trigger and sear. So a bit of pull weight is lost there, too.

You don't need a 10-lb spring that will only fire federal primers to lower your trigger pull. I'm using a heavier spring than you (14) and I have a lighter trigger primarily due to the Titan/bolo and reduced springs everywhere else. And vastly better polishing.

Put the good parts in, and don't look back.

Oh, and sell the Henning pin on eBay and run a polished factory one. 

Edited by MemphisMechanic
Link to comment
Share on other sites

10 hours ago, Sniperboy said:

Agh! Guilty as charged.  My fears were confirmed this evening when I found out I did just that - and the long leg of my sear spring is sheared off.  Luckily it doesn't affect function (it didn't even reduce my DA pull darn it), it just does not retain the thumb safety anymore which I suppose I can deal with in the short term since it does not fall out.  I have probably torn down my Stock 2 maybe three or four times now, getting a bit more confident thanks to everyone's help here.  Even had a close call where the plunger in the mag catch flew out and hit me in the eyelid...  I consider that a blessing in disguise.  Paul's youtube disassembly video helped and everytime I feel a panic attack, I take a deep breath and think in an Australian accent.

I want to go slow and have not put in the titan hammer, bolo or one piece sear.  I think a new sear spring is in order.  But I think I need to up my game since the first round of polishing and a 13 pound Wolff hammer spring is only getting me to 9.5DA & 4SA (identical to the weights before I polished and just changed springs).  But using a Henning XL firing pin I can light up CCI primers no problem. 

MemphisMechanic's 6.5DA & 3.5SA is still my goal.

MM, do you use a reduced power sear spring?  Yes I am still hung up on a tactile reset, but that's another thing I have to evaluate internally.

Does the one piece sear really contribute in reducing the DA?  Or is it for convenience and for the SA break?

Is it the Titan hammer that facilitates the need to fit a safety, or will the one piece sear alone need to be fit to a safety?

...or worse, is it a bad idea to just fit the one piece safety because if the titan hammer is installed after, it may not work in conjunction with the pre-fit one piece sear?

I suppose I can simply go down to a 10 pound hammer spring but want to do that as a last resort.  In the meantime I will reread MemphisMechanic's diary to see if I missed anything.

 

Sorry for playing 20 questions.  I have been reading up for 2+ weeks now so I don't try to ask questions that have already been asked, just couldn't catch the answers to these questions...  and sorry for the long post.

I had to refit my safety and sear when switching to the Titan Hammer. It was easy and does not require nearly as much material to be removed as fitting a sear for the first time.

I think it is worth it to change your TRS and sear spring to the PD ones now.  Few dry fire sessions along with a couple of hundred rounds down the pipe and you will have no issues with the reset. As MM said earlier match style shooting typically does not ride the reset anyways.  

I would swap out that Wolff spring for a PD one.  I went fron a 13lb Wolff to a 14 pound PD and my trigger pull was still way better.  I can now run a 12 pound PD and still get 100% ignition.  I still use a 14# just to be safe though.

The optimized Springs from PD work great especially when you use them all together. Equally as important as polishing and part swapping if you want a truly remarkable gun.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

What a wealth of information. I really very much appreciate everyone's time replying and patience with my questions. Y'all have been very generous with your knowledge. I know where to direct my attention now. 

Though it it seems that the extended FPB was mentioned. I wished I didn't have to deal with that but I'll tackle it when the time comes. : )

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, Sniperboy said:

Though it it seems that the extended FPB was mentioned. I wished I didn't have to deal with that but I'll tackle it when the time comes. : )

Why? If needed, fitting the firing pin block to the gun is a simple affair you can easily do with no more than a hand file and five minutes of your time. Test it for function, remove a small amount of steel, and repeat. It'll take you about twenty seconds to pop the firing pin and block out of the slide each time, until the firing pin passes the block cleanly with the trigger pulled.

Edited by MemphisMechanic
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Kinda glad I went with the Lim Pro. No messing with 1pc sear or firing pin block conversions.
Couple runs on the BOLO with a dremel was easy.
Unfortunately, it sounds like if I went with the Titan hammer I might need to do some fitting?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I feel like you guys are making a mountain out of a molehill: fitting the parts is a matter of an hour or so worth of disassembly and reassembly testing and filing. It's not fast, but it is extremely easy.

(Easy enough that I'd take Tanfo gunsmithing jobs if there could possibly be enough demand and the ATF didn't mind without getting a few liscenses!)

You could possibly need a new bolo: Titan & Bolo together typically drop right in. Most of the time. Mine did, in a one-piece converted Stock 3.

So there's a chance you could need some of that metal you removed. ARy can answer far better than I.

Edited by MemphisMechanic
Link to comment
Share on other sites

The hardest part of tuning is deciding "today, I tune".   That first step ... get over it.  Just take your time,  start with a neat organized area.  Remember to put your thumb over the hole in the mag release when you pull the plunger and remove the trigger pin with the frame upside down so the spring doesn't fly off.  Everything else is just attention to detail. 

 

Any sticking spots can be addressed here or with the search function (joke ;))

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, johnbu said:

The hardest part of tuning is deciding "today, I tune".   That first step ... get over it.  Just take your time,  start with a neat organized area.  Remember to put your thumb over the hole in the mag release when you pull the plunger and remove the trigger pin with the frame upside down so the spring doesn't fly off.  Everything else is just attention to detail. 

 

Any sticking spots can be addressed here or with the search function (joke ;))

The Tanfo is not a hard pistol to work on. 

The hardest part for me when I did my first round of parts install and tuning was finding the plunger retaining parts on my garage floor when I took out the mag release.  (Wish I would have watched the video before I took my S3 apart instead of doing it faster than the guy in the video).

Honestly, if you can do a full assembly/disassembly of the pistol you can do everything that needs to be done to upgrade the pistol.

Use the right punches and tools, and use plenty of painters tape. 

Take your time and don't pick the night before a match to be the "day I tune". If something doesn't fit don't force it.  Post a question here and you will have an answer in minutes usually.

Edited by billthemarine2862
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 12/13/2016 at 11:09 PM, ryridesmotox said:

ARy, do you know someone who has personal experience with not igniting anything with a henning pin? ROFL

Take it from someone who failboated a match like the Titanic. I was like Leonardo DiCaprio just sliding into the abyss. Stay with the standard firing pin until the PD pin comes out.

Me haha. Hi ryridesmotox hahah we meet again (from calguns!) Damn light strikes using the henning pin on my 2ndhand Stock II

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 12/14/2016 at 11:36 AM, Sniperboy said:

Just one more thing that can go wrong. :) The sear fitting is simple but simple to mess up too.

if I have to do it because of the one piece sear then I'll cross that bridge when I have to. 

You're local to me in Oakland. PM me if you have any questions and need someone to look at it in person. ARy can vouch for me if you have any concerns.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thank you for extending a hand haiedras : ) - I appreciate it brother.  If you are local and run a Tanfo I would not be surprised if we have run into each other in Richmond or San Leandro and not known it.  Us behind enemy lines have to really stick together : )  I am still fiddling right now but I'll definitely reach out when I get in a pinch.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

10 hours ago, insicnarf said:

Me haha. Hi ryridesmotox hahah we meet again (from calguns!) Damn light strikes using the henning pin on my 2ndhand Stock II

Yuuuup I had the same issues... Honestly, I wanted to get that firing pin to run but it would not. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 12/17/2016 at 6:23 AM, ryridesmotox said:

Yuuuup I had the same issues... Honestly, I wanted to get that firing pin to run but it would not. 

Lol unfortunate for us. ARy showed me their new PD firing pin earlier and he recommended to get it if i get into reloading since the stock one would be fine with firing factory ammo. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Installed a new Titan hammer, extreme one piece sear and Bolo in a new Stock 2 and had a few questions.  

When I installed the new Bolo I used the pin that came with it after finding the stock pin did not fit.  Pin was loose and used grease to hold in place.  Just would like a confirmation this is a correct install and the stock pin is not used.

After I put everything together I noticed the thumb safeties do not work.  I am assuming I need to fit the safety.

I have not put in an extended firing pin block yet so assuming mine likely is not working with the factory block.  What is an easy way to check this.

Have a little over 600 rounds thru and getting the odd double feed every 100 rounds.  Loading to 1.11 for length.  Have slightly beveled the slide bottom corner but assuming with this failure I need to bevel a little more.  New gun so been tentitive on the filing.  

Sent off to Grams to throat the barrel and was going to shoot it with the throated barrel before I bevel the bottom of the slide anymore in the hopes that maybe the throating has cured this.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

13 minutes ago, ryridesmotox said:

Yea the sear and the safety need fitting to work properly.

This.  And yes, use grease on the BOLO pin.  It's right there on the website you ordered from...

Product Description

NOTE – For a trouble free install with the BOLO interrupter we recommend you have the Xtreme Sear and Titan Hammer installed on your pistol. These two items are a must if your looking for a trouble free install on your firearm. 

  • Please read the below product description before purchasing. 
  • Some pistols will require fitting due to the vast amount of machining tolerance variations in these pistols. 
  • The supplied pin is designed to float in the hammer pin holes, use grease to aid in assembly and keep the pin from falling out. 
  • Please contact us should you have any question regarding fitting or modifying your BOLO

 

 
Edited by MissionaryMike
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ok, the titan geometry is what causes the safety to not work. Memphis Mechanic has a thread on fitting the sear with pretty pictures. It's good! The FP safety is checked by cocking the hammer and pushing the firing pin with a punch or similar. It should go a short distance and be stopped by the block. You will (99.9% likely) need the extended block.

Generous chamfer on that leading edge and nice polish on the rib. Should fix the feed issue. Good luck!

 

 

 

 

12 hours ago, Single Stack said:

Installed a new Titan hammer, extreme one piece sear and Bolo in a new Stock 2 and had a few questions.  

When I installed the new Bolo I used the pin that came with it after finding the stock pin did not fit.  Pin was loose and used grease to hold in place.  Just would like a confirmation this is a correct install and the stock pin is not used.

After I put everything together I noticed the thumb safeties do not work.  I am assuming I need to fit the safety.

I have not put in an extended firing pin block yet so assuming mine likely is not working with the factory block.  What is an easy way to check this.

Have a little over 600 rounds thru and getting the odd double feed every 100 rounds.  Loading to 1.11 for length.  Have slightly beveled the slide bottom corner but assuming with this failure I need to bevel a little more.  New gun so been tentitive on the filing.  

Sent off to Grams to throat the barrel and was going to shoot it with the throated barrel before I bevel the bottom of the slide anymore in the hopes that maybe the throating has cured this.

 

 

Edited by johnbu
speeling wez badd
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



×
×
  • Create New...