billthemarine2862 Posted November 10, 2016 Share Posted November 10, 2016 When installing the BOLO is it necessary to re-fit the safety and sear? My safety, sear, and hammer worked fine before I installed the BOLO. Safety will no longer engage with the sear. Just want to be sure this is normal before I take a file to my sear. Thanks Bill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PatriotDefense Posted November 10, 2016 Share Posted November 10, 2016 BOLO will have no impact on the safety/sear fitment... What all got replaced during BOLO install and what parts are being used? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billthemarine2862 Posted November 10, 2016 Author Share Posted November 10, 2016 I figured it out I believe. I fit the extreme sear earlier with factory hammer. I am guessing the issue is the Titan hammer fit. I was so darn excited to put it all together. I probably should have fit the hammer and sear with my extreme interrupter first. i am using extreme trigger, Henning plunger spring, OEM trigger bar, OEM sear cage, extreme sear, Titan hammer, BOLO, PD hammer spring. Let me know if it could be anything else I am overlooking. The trigger break and reset are freaking amazing with the BOLO though. thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billthemarine2862 Posted November 10, 2016 Author Share Posted November 10, 2016 There is also PD sear spring, trs, and CGW pin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PatriotDefense Posted November 10, 2016 Share Posted November 10, 2016 Only thing I see that may be an issue is the Henning plunger spring. Some guns do not like that installed with the BOLO and will give you a short stroke on the DA pull, going back to the factory spring will cure that issue and give a more positive reset as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billthemarine2862 Posted November 10, 2016 Author Share Posted November 10, 2016 I knew I read that before about the plunger spring. Gonna swap it out tomorrow. I will change it out when i mess with the safety tomorrow. Will give me an excuse to polish the crap out of that plunger. That is one place that needs a visit from the blue magic. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnbu Posted November 10, 2016 Share Posted November 10, 2016 When you push the plunger head down, there should not be any "zipper" feel from the machining marks on the shaft and INSIDE the head. That really makes the trigger smooth and eliminates the need for weak plunger spring. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billthemarine2862 Posted November 11, 2016 Author Share Posted November 11, 2016 I fit the sear and safety. The Titan really engages the sear differently than the factory hammer did. Installed the factory plunger spring. Everything is dialed in real nicely now. went from a 15# wolf spring to a 14# PD and I am seeing an extra 2.5 inches when doing the pencil test. Very nice! Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnbu Posted November 11, 2016 Share Posted November 11, 2016 Lighter trigger, harder hit. That's the goal! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billthemarine2862 Posted November 11, 2016 Author Share Posted November 11, 2016 1 hour ago, johnbu said: Lighter trigger, harder hit. That's the goal! I can't believe how much better the trigger got when I put the factory plunger spring back in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PatriotDefense Posted November 11, 2016 Share Posted November 11, 2016 It's all about that positive reset...... "Click" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MemphisMechanic Posted November 11, 2016 Share Posted November 11, 2016 1 hour ago, billthemarine2862 said: I can't believe how much better the trigger got when I put the factory plunger spring back in. It's amazing how I keep seeing people reluctant to go back to stock there, even though all of our Tanfoglio-whisperers are unanimous on doing so. Glad to see you listened and that they were definitely right! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IronArcher Posted December 13, 2016 Share Posted December 13, 2016 Update:Lim ProXtreme triggerBoloSprings and polish get it to about 5 1/2lbs DA Note the "quiet" reset.Is this a concern?https://vimeo.com/195417710Forgive the dirty mits... just got done polishing/assembling this before the video. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IronArcher Posted December 13, 2016 Share Posted December 13, 2016 Cool! How much of a benefit is there to the PDO trigger return spring?Any negatives?Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MemphisMechanic Posted December 13, 2016 Share Posted December 13, 2016 (edited) The noise or tactile nature of reset - wanting something that goes ClickPow! - is something I've never understood. Dryfire and live fire teach you where your reset point is on plastic guns, and you automatically come off of it that far plus some when shooting in USPSA. In fast shooting you're not riding the reset. You're definitely not feeling the click when the timer is running. With a reworked Tanfo I find it to be even less of a factor. The trigger stops moving at the reset point (lack of pre travel from Bolo). How much does the PD trigger spring help? I personally would except the PD sear spring and trigger spring to reduce pull weight around a pound. Perhaps even less... but every little bit of polishing and spring reduction adds up. Edited December 13, 2016 by MemphisMechanic Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PatriotDefense Posted December 13, 2016 Share Posted December 13, 2016 6 hours ago, IronArcher said: Cool! How much of a benefit is there to the PDO trigger return spring? Any negatives? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro it just aides in fine tuning everything, you'll loose a bit off the trigger pull as well...... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IronArcher Posted December 13, 2016 Share Posted December 13, 2016 Cool...maybe I'll throw it on with my PDO firing pin. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MemphisMechanic Posted December 13, 2016 Share Posted December 13, 2016 I'd add their sear spring and trigger spring to your cart whenever the firing pin is available for order. Actually I'd add a couple of sear springs. Anytime you detail strip the gun and forget to snap the spring leg back down onto the safety, you'll bend it when you install the slide. It'll happen sooner or later. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IronArcher Posted December 13, 2016 Share Posted December 13, 2016 Already have the sear spring But having a couple spares is wise.Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ryridesmotox Posted December 13, 2016 Share Posted December 13, 2016 PD should get an "OOPS kit" together for Tanfos... the little shit that always slips and ends up in another dimension fighting intergalactic aliens or something. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IronArcher Posted December 13, 2016 Share Posted December 13, 2016 Tiny springs and pins!!!Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnbu Posted December 14, 2016 Share Posted December 14, 2016 The optimized trigger and sear spring reduce pull force a significant amount, but don't affect the strike force on the primer at all. That's the best of all worlds ! 46 minutes ago, NicoR said: 18 hours ago, IronArcher said: Cool! How much of a benefit is there to the PDO trigger return spring? Any negatives? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IronArcher Posted December 14, 2016 Share Posted December 14, 2016 I think I might hold off for just a bit.I had a bad habit of not letting the trigger reset. Less trigger return spring won't help much with that.Need to at least shoot it a bit after the polish/trigger/sear spring/hammer spring job. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MemphisMechanic Posted December 14, 2016 Share Posted December 14, 2016 (edited) You'll figure out that this is a grip pressure issue (strong hand tensing up when shooting fast and locking down on the trigger). Even the strongest-clicking Glock reset on the planet won't fix your trigger freeze. Trust me. Been there. We all think a loud clicky reset is some kind of advantage for a long time. It really doesn't change anything one way or the other: you release to the point you've learned to in dryfire and live practice - unless you get tense due to pressure to really rip that second shot. Edited December 14, 2016 by MemphisMechanic Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sniperboy Posted December 14, 2016 Share Posted December 14, 2016 (edited) 10 hours ago, MemphisMechanic said: I'd add their sear spring and trigger spring to your cart whenever the firing pin is available for order. Actually I'd add a couple of sear springs. Anytime you detail strip the gun and forget to snap the spring leg back down onto the safety, you'll bend it when you install the slide. It'll happen sooner or later. Agh! Guilty as charged. My fears were confirmed this evening when I found out I did just that - and the long leg of my sear spring is sheared off. Luckily it doesn't affect function (it didn't even reduce my DA pull darn it), it just does not retain the thumb safety anymore which I suppose I can deal with in the short term since it does not fall out. I have probably torn down my Stock 2 maybe three or four times now, getting a bit more confident thanks to everyone's help here. Even had a close call where the plunger in the mag catch flew out and hit me in the eyelid... I consider that a blessing in disguise. Paul's youtube disassembly video helped and everytime I feel a panic attack, I take a deep breath and think in an Australian accent. I want to go slow and have not put in the titan hammer, bolo or one piece sear. I think a new sear spring is in order. But I think I need to up my game since the first round of polishing and a 13 pound Wolff hammer spring is only getting me to 9.5DA & 4SA (identical to the weights before I polished and just changed springs). But using a Henning XL firing pin I can light up CCI primers no problem. MemphisMechanic's 6.5DA & 3.5SA is still my goal. MM, do you use a reduced power sear spring? Yes I am still hung up on a tactile reset, but that's another thing I have to evaluate internally. Does the one piece sear really contribute in reducing the DA? Or is it for convenience and for the SA break? Is it the Titan hammer that facilitates the need to fit a safety, or will the one piece sear alone need to be fit to a safety? ...or worse, is it a bad idea to just fit the one piece safety because if the titan hammer is installed after, it may not work in conjunction with the pre-fit one piece sear? I suppose I can simply go down to a 10 pound hammer spring but want to do that as a last resort. In the meantime I will reread MemphisMechanic's diary to see if I missed anything. Sorry for playing 20 questions. I have been reading up for 2+ weeks now so I don't try to ask questions that have already been asked, just couldn't catch the answers to these questions... and sorry for the long post. Edited December 14, 2016 by Sniperboy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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