Wet tumbling, and using magnet on case feeder...

[Quirk]

I know some use magnets positioned at various points to catch disguised steel case brass (which I'm seeing lots more of now..S&B and FM headstamps...these look almost exactly like regular brass cases, very frustrating). I use a magnet during case prep for this, well before the cases would end up in the case feeder.

But...I just started wet tumbling and every so often I get a stainless steel pin in the case despite doing the normal stuff to separate it.  About 1 in 1000, more or less depending on how diligent you are. Obviously I'm looking for fast efficient technique to do this...

I experimented with positioning a few magnets on the inside of the case feeder, just before the case would drop. The brass at this point is upright, and the magnet sucks up any pins in the case.  Even if they were slightly 'wedged' into the case (i.e., the pin would not fall out if turned over), it worked. Also, if it's steel case, the whole case will pop up, too, but that's not my problem...it's the pins.  So far works fine. Cost about $30 for all the magnets while I experimented...

Anyone with any other techniques? I thought about gluing those small but strong agents to the collator disc, etc etc. But this position just before case drop is the best I think...

C

[Boxerglocker]

It’s been a long time since I have had an issue but for me the key is making sure that the pin size used is doesn’t clog up flash holes. I use Stainless Steel Tumbling Media Pins - 0.047" Diameter, 0.255" Length. I use my media separator rotating cage and bucket flooded with water and spin the brass free of pins. Then when dry, I double check with a strong welding pick up magnet, $6.99 at Harbor Freight Tools.  

[gransport]

I simply stopped using the pins :-) Most of the shooters around here, that wet tumble, have done the same. I've been very happy with how clean the brass gets and, none of the hassles of dealing with the pins. Give it a try.

 

[Quirk]

I will try both those suggestions...the pins are a pain, I don't need the brass shiny new, but wanted to eliminate the dust issue in my garage....children....

 

thx

 

C

[FTDMFR]

I simply stopped using the pins :-) Most of the shooters around here, that wet tumble, have done the same. I've been very happy with how clean the brass gets and, none of the hassles of dealing with the pins. Give it a try.

Same here.

I don't even use soap anymore.

[Boxerglocker]

21 hours ago, gransport said:

I simply stopped using the pins :-) Most of the shooters around here, that wet tumble, have done the same. I've been very happy with how clean the brass gets and, none of the hassles of dealing with the pins. Give it a try.

 

I don't understand why some people have such a hard time separating pins. It's not hard, it literally takes me no more than 10 minutes to separate and rinse my brass. I don't even touch the cases or pins. (one of these days I'm going to actually video the way I do it) I've tried cleaning both ways with and without and there is no contest on which cleans the best. This LC LR brass was literally dark when I got it but after only 2 hours wet tumbling in pins... spotless inside and out.

 

Edited September 24, 2016 by Boxerglocker

[mcracco]

I process 223 & 300 BO by the 55gal drum with brass wet tumbled as a first step and last.step. Pins stuck in cases are not an issue, at least not with, .047dia pins. Maybe 1 in 3400 (5 gal bucket) will have a pin wedged in the base and on a 1050 it will be detected by decapping pin or swage backer. In either case the machine will stop and if I can't quickly knock the pin out the case gets scraped. Again 1 in a 5 gal bucket (capacity of tumbler).

I use the large Dillon media separator followed by forced air drying in vented trays. Cases are tumbled by hand while drying which aids in getting pins out. I'll see maybe 4-6 pins under a tray of 1600 cases after drying (that the media separator missed).

You can tumble without media but in my opinion you are giving up a lot in terms of cleaning and burnishing.

 

[ams30gts]

Wet tumbling without pins may get the outside clean, but the inside and primer pocket won't be.

[Tom Freeman]

4 hours ago, ams30gts said:

Wet tumbling without pins may get the outside clean, but the inside and primer pocket won't be.

And unless you are shooting benchrest that isn't much of an issue.

[ams30gts]

6 minutes ago, Tom Freeman said:

And unless you are shooting benchrest that isn't much of an issue.

True, but isn't that the main reason for wet tumbling?

[lefty o]

main reason for wet tumbing for me is to reduce dust. dont want the particulate lead dust floating aorund. without pins, gets outside dang shiny, inside very clean, and yes it does leave some residue left in the primer pocket, but not enough to worry about. for me the pins are a no go idea.

[lefty o]

main reason for wet tumbing for me is to reduce dust. dont want the particulate lead dust floating aorund. without pins, gets outside dang shiny, inside very clean, and yes it does leave some residue left in the primer pocket, but not enough to worry about. for me the pins are a no go idea.

[Quirk]

2 hours with soap and lemon shine only, the brass was slightly less clean than my prior dry tumbling technique. Good enough I'm sure but certainly not why I invested in the tumbler and pins...

I'm going to try the pins for awhile, I do like that shiny clean brass look.  I probably am not doing it right to fully separate the pins. I have the right size pins. I didn't spin them in the Dillon separator with water filling the tub....is that the key? That helps the pins flow out better?

C

[Steve RA]

I use the media separator without water and think it works better that way.  Never have any problem with the pins staying in the cases but I use the XL size pins.

[ams30gts]

To separate the pins I use the Frankford Arsenal Media Separator on a 3gl bucket filled with water.  I put max 300 in at a time and it get's 100% of the pins everytime.  I used to use my Dillon media separator, but it requires a lot more water and parts of it started rusting.

Edited October 1, 2016 by ams30gts

[reloader901]

I'm making a wet tumbler this week. 5 gallon bucket with a large screw on lid. I've seen a bunch of YouTube videos and plan to skip pins. Jerry Miculek uses a cement mixer. I'm making something similar, but on a smaller scale and should know the results soon.

Here is Jerry's brass cleaning....

[mveto]

When I was wet tumbling I would make sure I rinsed out the cases as I pulled them from the tumbler. This would get the pins out of any cases that may have had any left in them. Very rarely would I have a pin stuck in a flash hole. If I did I would make sure to keep a dental pick close by to push the pin out of the flash hole. I know it was probably not the fastest method but it worked and I always knew that I had all the pins out of the cases.

[Phlier]

There are two versions of the Frankford Arsenal Media Separator. One that's meant to be used with dry media, one for wet media.

The wet media version uses a rubber locker to hold the cage closed, the dry media version uses a metal pin. It's pretty important that you use the correct version.

The wet media version comes with a square, two piece bucket. One of the bucket half shells has a drain in the bottom, covered by a screen. The other half shell does not.

I've used the following process with the wet media separator, and have only found pins in shells if I try to separate too many cases at once, or am trying to separate multiple calibers..

Fill the bucket half shell that doesn't have the drain in the bottom (duh  ) with water, up to about two inches from the top. It's important that there is enough water in the bucket so that the cage bottom will be sitting in water (I fill it so that the bottom half of the cage is just about completely submerged when the cage is placed in the bucket). Place the cage in the holders, and spin the cases for a solid minute, reversing spin direction frequently.

Dump the water out of the half shell. Now take the half shell that has the drain in the bottom, and place it in the sink. Place the media separator in it, and spin the cage for about ten seconds to get the water out of the inside of the shells.

Done. No pins, no water in the shells, and squeaky clean brass, inside and out. I can separate either 500 9mm cases or 250 .223 cases at once without having to worry about pins left in cases.

Gents, it is very important that you don't use mixed calibers when doing this. You'll find that the larger calibers will "eat" the smaller ones, trapping metal pins and water in the process. Separate your brass into their respective calibers prior to wet tumbling/separating.

[Steve RA]

I use the Berry's separator which has a lid, it works very well for me without water.

[Quirk]

I actually read the directions better that came with my large Big Dawg tumbler, and used hot water, more soap, and a full tbsp. of lemonshine and ran 2000+ 9mm cases for 3 hours in my new tumbler, and then separated with water in my small Dillon separator. Rinsed with water a few times, and wow are they clean and shiny, including primer pocket.  I ran a strong magnet over the cases as they lay out on a large blanket on my cooled and dehumidified garage floor, and retrieved NO pins, so I conclude that the advice above about using the water filling the separator bin really helped.  I think I'll get a larger separator, maybe that larger size Dillon specimen, because with mine I need three separate stages to rinse and pin-separate 2k cases, which is what I run in the tumbler each time. Unless anyone has different advice...

Thanks

C

[Jimk60]

Steve RA, I have the same tumbler, only it says RCBS.

Lots of info here. I currently have enough brass to last a while, so I wont need to clean any for a while.

I have been wet tumbling in a Big Dawg design tumbler that I built myself. As far as I know, the original post from Big Dawg on his design is till up and available, and includes a list of all parts and some links to buy.

I can tumble 8 lbs of brass at a time. That's also about as much as my dehydrator holds when I dry them.

The standard for cleaning with pins is to use Dawn along with Lemishine. Dawn strips ALL oils from the brass, leaving shiny, clean brass. The downside is that you have to lube the straight wall cases, or suffer sticking problems in the sizing die, AND the expanding powder funnel. Some have started spray lubing their cases to ease this problem, but there is still an issue with the powder funnel.

I have started using Armor-All Wash and Wax with Carnuba instead of Dawn, along with the Lemishine. I tried other products, both listed as Wash and Clean, and Wash and Wax, and the Armor-All worked the best for me.

The benefit of using of the A-A product is twofold. First it puts a shiny hard surface on the brass and significantly eases the effort required in re-sizing and  belling at the powder funnel.. Second, the wax coating leaves the brass very shiny for a very long time. It will maintain that shine and lubricity, and will not tarnish over time.

 

 

[RichJacot]

I've also switched to the Armor-All wash and wax but I don't think I have the qty right.  I'm using about the same amount as I was when using Dawn.  How much are you using Jim? TIA

[Bkreutz]

I use a small cement mixer to clean brass, I use a "glug" of Armor-all, a sprinkle of Lemishine. (scientific measurements I know) with a gallon of water and 2500, 9mm cases. Been using this "precise" ratio for a couple of years. Why do you say you're using too much? Excess suds?

[tires2burn]

https://youtu.be/RTEZtsDO4a8 

I made a video on you tube that explains how I clean my brass and separate the pins.

[JMcBurn]

Look at southern shine. They sell stainless chips. I hear they do a great job also and don't get stuck at all. Pretty cheap to trial also.