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Installed a Mr. BulletFeeder, but...


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Following multiple recommendations got a Mr. BulletFeeder to go with my Dillon 650. Followed the instructions in the manual, set up the powder funnel and the dropper first without the pieces above the brass piece. I got it to work perfectly with about 6 rounds, each time dropping a single bullet. Then assembled the rest. Fed perfectly to the tube, and then it just feeds every bullet in the tube. What needs to be done for it to feed a SINGLE bullet. I thought the procedure in the manual made sure that a single bullet only would feed and not sure of the corrective action (move it down or up? ).

Thanks in advance.

 

 

Screenshot 2016-08-14 14.31.34.png

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First check that there is ZERO tension on the spring. If it's even barely lifting at all it will dump bullets. You can stretch the spring just a tad or move the collator forward a half inch or so

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Well, amazing customer service. Rick, the inventor, messaged me and I talked to him on the phone. Yes, I had the unit a bit too far back and there was tension on the spring. I moved it as far forward as I could and still have the long end of the mount touch the case feeder (after the 6.5cm length). Still the issue persisted. So, I went with his second suggestion and it worked. Feeds a single bullet each and every time.

I am still amazed at such a response. I'd keep buying his products based on that alone.

Here is the solution.

 

2016-08-14 17.21.51.jpg

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I have dealt with Rick a lot and he is great. BUT, when you get tired of looking at a bandaid fix on your high speed 650 just stretch the spring a tiny bit and it will cure the problem.

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my advice. don't stretch the spring just yet. Mine was the same when brand new but I think either the spring settles or the parts wear in a little.

when new mine would not solidly return all the way down either. after a little while of dealing with it and using various ties/rubber bands it was fixed. recently I took them all off and tried it. now it works 100% and returns to the bottom after each drop without issue. 

I guess my point is only stretch the spring if you REALLY need to. I'd say run it with the rubber band fix for a while, then try it without the band. from the pic in the other thread it looks to me like your collator is way further from horizontal than 45 degrees too. lowering the front a little will bring it closer to the 45 degrees you need and also reduce tension on the dropper at the same time. :)

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10 hours ago, BeerBaron said:

...

I guess my point is only stretch the spring if you REALLY need to. I'd say run it with the rubber band fix for a while, then try it without the band. from the pic in the other thread it looks to me like your collator is way further from horizontal than 45 degrees too. lowering the front a little will bring it closer to the 45 degrees you need and also reduce tension on the dropper at the same time. :)

I'll give it a shot. I had no way to measure the exact angle and went with the 6.5cm length for the long rod advice they had in the manual for getting to the angle.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Anyone have issues with bullets flipping occasionally when they collate and drop?  Have been adjusting shims...but still happens .  Any ideas at what to look at or something I could be doing wrong?

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2 hours ago, JimmyN9 said:

Anyone have issues with bullets flipping occasionally when they collate and drop?  Have been adjusting shims...but still happens .  Any ideas at what to look at or something I could be doing wrong?

Yes, depends on the bullet weight and shape. I've found tweaking all of the following to help
- angle of bullet feeder unit itself
- # of shims
- position of shim deck, closer or further away
- how much wobble in case feeder - bullets may flip on particularly difficult case to for or when it 'unsticks' from powder drop (have fixed with case lube and/or mounting bullet feeder to wall instead of case feeder).

.... its helpful to have someone else pull the handle so you can watch from above whats going on, if gets better or worse after an adjustment.

Edited by trgt
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13 hours ago, trgt said:

Yes, depends on the bullet weight and shape. I've found tweaking all of the following to help
- angle of bullet feeder unit itself
- # of shims
- position of shim deck, closer or further away
- how much wobble in case feeder - bullets may flip on particularly difficult case to for or when it 'unsticks' from powder drop (have fixed with case lube and/or mounting bullet feeder to wall instead of case feeder).

.... its helpful to have someone else pull the handle so you can watch from above whats going on, if gets better or worse after an adjustment.

TRGT - Thank you, will run the list and see if that improves the issue.  I also think it may have to do with more than 200 in the collator.  Thanks again.

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Rick sez... Try putting 125 projectiles in the collator and then adding 100 more each time you add primers.  

The 25 extra will serve to agitate the pile a bit and keep the output rate up.

Use a plastic cup etc, put 100 in the cup and make a reference mark for the next scoop full.

 

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  • 3 months later...

Got mine setup this week in 45acp on a 1050, did some tweaking - had the multiple bullet drop issue at first but that was easy fix, just moved the hopper closer (which for the 1050 means around the back more), to relieve some spring tension.  However, in this position the spring does hit the PM.  Doesn't seem to affect anything but I will tweak a bit more.  May move it back a bit and stretch the spring a little instead.

The hopper "eject lever" seems to eject a lot of bullets that appear to be correctly oriented, other than being nose down...might be a function of the bullet profile, ie 200 LWC vs RN?  It's not the shims as this is occurring before they even get to the shim section, It's almost as if I need to adjust the lever "higher" above the plate (or the plate lower)  but I don't think those are adjustable?  So I am thinking I just need to tweak the angle of the hopper possibly.

Lastly, has anyone stuck with the standard Dillon powder funnel vs. the MBF provided one?  the MBF funnel sticks to my brass pretty good and doesn't release cleanly, so I get a pretty good hitch in the upstroke.  I've read the suggestions on the DA/MBF site, but so far nothing seems to be working.  I've adjusted for more swage expansion and even less "belling" at the PM, but the brass stills sticks and takes the smoothness out of the cycle.  I am using One Shot lube, and also put some on the funnel also, but it still does it.

Other than the brass sticking to the funnel, I'm pretty happy with it.  The bullet/hopper deal I'm sure I can work out with some tweaking, but hoping to figure out a way to not have brass sticking/catching when coming off the funnel.  

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13 hours ago, 78Staff said:

Lastly, has anyone stuck with the standard Dillon powder funnel vs. the MBF provided one?  the MBF funnel sticks to my brass pretty good and doesn't release cleanly, so I get a pretty good hitch in the upstroke.  I've read the suggestions on the DA/MBF site, but so far nothing seems to be working.  I've adjusted for more swage expansion and even less "belling" at the PM, but the brass stills sticks and takes the smoothness out of the cycle.  I am using One Shot lube, and also put some on the funnel also, but it still does it.

On the 1050, stick with your Dillon powder drop.  You don't need the MBF drop.  On a 650, you will need the MBF drop - if that's the case, try a little chapstick where it engages with the case but stay away from the drop hole or powder will stick to the chapstick.

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4 hours ago, blueeyedme said:

On the 1050, stick with your Dillon powder drop.  You don't need the MBF drop.  On a 650, you will need the MBF drop - if that's the case, try a little chapstick where it engages with the case but stay away from the drop hole or powder will stick to the chapstick.

 

Yep that worked fine, switching back to the Dillon funnel on the 1050 and no issues sticking, and bullets tamp right down - Thanks!

I'm going to fiddle with the hopper angle a bit more tonight and should be good to go :D

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22 hours ago, 78Staff said:

The hopper "eject lever" seems to eject a lot of bullets that appear to be correctly oriented, other than being nose down...might be a function of the bullet profile, ie 200 LWC vs RN?  It's not the shims as this is occurring before they even get to the shim section, It's almost as if I need to adjust the lever "higher" above the plate (or the plate lower)  but I don't think those are adjustable?  So I am thinking I just need to tweak the angle of the hopper possibly.

 

Well I'm about ready to admit defeat on the ejector kicking out all inverted SWC rounds, ie coated 200gr LSWC.  Round nose works fine, so it appears to be something with the angle of the bullet instead of having a round ogive, and the ejector won't let it go by.  Will fiddle around with it more tomorrow, worst case I give them a call I suppose.

Edit - gave it one more look tonight, as simple things like this annoy me to no end lol.  Anyway, I decided to shim the eject lever up a bit, about .010, and with it raised a bit the lever doesn't kick out inverted LSWC's anymore - I suppose moving the lever up moves the pressure point up more towards the full side of the inverted bullet, thus holding in place vs it kicking out.  That's the theory anyway :).  I'll do some more testing tomorrow to make sure everything AOK.

Edited by 78Staff
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On 11/30/2016 at 7:19 PM, 78Staff said:

 

Yep that worked fine, switching back to the Dillon funnel on the 1050 and no issues sticking, and bullets tamp right down - Thanks!

I'm going to fiddle with the hopper angle a bit more tonight and should be good to go :D

78Staff:

I have the same problem with brass sticking on my MBF funnel. It is pretty bad and it is annoying, taking away from the "fun" factor of loading.

Did you just swap it with the Dillon factory one? If so, how are you flaring (bell) the brass? Does the Dillon flares as well? (I installed the MBF funnel from the get go when I bought my S1050)

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59 minutes ago, LowBoost said:

Did you just swap it with the Dillon factory one? If so, how are you flaring (bell) the brass? Does the Dillon flares as well? (I installed the MBF funnel from the get go when I bought my S1050)

On the 1050 just use your Dillon powder drop.  Got this advise direct from Rick a few years ago.

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1 hour ago, LowBoost said:

78Staff:

I have the same problem with brass sticking on my MBF funnel. It is pretty bad and it is annoying, taking away from the "fun" factor of loading.

Did you just swap it with the Dillon factory one? If so, how are you flaring (bell) the brass? Does the Dillon flares as well? (I installed the MBF funnel from the get go when I bought my S1050)

 

Yes, I just swapped back to the stock 1050 Powder Funnel. On the 1050, the Swage Backup/Expander die will expand the case , and the Dillon powder drop can be adjusted to bell the case further as required.  Since the MBF uses the weigh of the bullets above the one being placed to "tamp down" the seated bullet, I found you really don't need much belling at all

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1 hour ago, Foxbat said:

I only use the MBF funnels, because I like what they do - no bell, but a nice cylindrical area for the bullet to sit in.  To me it feels much better than the traditional bell.

The Dillon 1050 Swager Holdback die does a similar profile, probably slightly less than the MBF,but it seems to work fine.  I also bell very little at the Powder Funnel.

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