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silicon/carbide, aluminum oxide


cpa5oh

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I like grip tape - especially the very course grit - on my gun grips. Getting real tired, though, of having to change it out.

I've got a 60/90 mix of silicon carbide - think I want to go down to 24 or 36 grit: anyone know where to get it?

I see I could get 36 grit of aluminum oxide from McMaster Carr and it seems that McMaster Carr is saying that aluminum oxide is harder than silicon carbide: anyone know why aluminum oxide might not be a good idea?

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Have you ever had to re-do a grip? Can it be done (original epoxy/grit removed, re-applied)?

I have never had to re-do a grip. I am sure it could be done but would be a nasty job removing the old epoxy. Re-application would be no different than the first time it was done.

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Yes you can redo it if necessary. Learning to do it, i screwed one up and it looked crappy, so i put my heat gun on low and it scraped off fairly easy. Also the harbor freight rock tumbler package is coarse if that's what you're wanting

Daniel K

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  • 1 year later...

Reviving this old thread to get some additional feedback. I'm thinking about doing a silicon carbide grip job on my glock because I want something a little more aggressive than the talons I've been using and I think the talons need to be replaced too often.

I dry fire a lot and between that and live fire I'm replacing every couple of months.

So, my questions for those that have some experience with this are...

(1) how well does it hold up compared to talons?
(2) can it be refreshed once worn or is it just a matter of cleaning out the skin and dirt with a brush?
(3) if I decide for some reason that I want/need to remove, is it just a matter of applying heat and scraping?

Thanks in advance for sharing your experience.


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Reviving this old thread to get some additional feedback. I'm thinking about doing a silicon carbide grip job on my glock because I want something a little more aggressive than the talons I've been using and I think the talons need to be replaced too often.

I dry fire a lot and between that and live fire I'm replacing every couple of months.

So, my questions for those that have some experience with this are...

(1) how well does it hold up compared to talons?
(2) can it be refreshed once worn or is it just a matter of cleaning out the skin and dirt with a brush?
(3) if I decide for some reason that I want/need to remove, is it just a matter of applying heat and scraping?

Thanks in advance for sharing your experience.


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Any grip job gurus out there?


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I did my M&P with JB weld at the suggestion of a friend. The JB weld obviously holds up extremely well with silicon carbide. I would definitely recommend practicing on something like small panels of a P-mag first as there's an art to it. Clean everything very well with isopropanol before you start. You do not want to press the silicon carbide in, rather, just dust liberally and let it sit for 24 hours. During this time you can also figure out which grit of silicon carbide you want to use. You can get really, REALLY aggressive textures but that might not be the best idea. 

 

As far as how well it holds up, my grip had a year of dry fire and live fire on it. After some live fire sessions in Texas my pistol would be too hot to physically hold because that damn slide release lever got scorching hot under my thumb. Despite my sweaty palms I did not have any issues with my grip on the pistol or degradation of the grip surface or texture. My friend's original M&P grip has held up to 3+ years of use. 

I never cleaned my grip nor did I even feel replacing it was necessary. I did however switch to shooting CZ's so I only had about a solid year of heavy use on my M&P. 

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I use a 2 part epoxy and to remove, just heat and scrape. My grip job on my 320X5 has worn down some, but it's still good enough to do the job. Just not as pretty as it used to be

Thanks. Based on what Darqusoull13 said, it sounds pretty durable but I wonder how you can refresh it once it starts to get worn and dull. Do you think it's possible or would it involve scraping the old and applying a new coat of epoxy and grit?


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  • 2 weeks later...
On 11/30/2017 at 3:53 PM, MJinPA said:


Thanks. Based on what Darqusoull13 said, it sounds pretty durable but I wonder how you can refresh it once it starts to get worn and dull. Do you think it's possible or would it involve scraping the old and applying a new coat of epoxy and grit?


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I did a 2-part epoxy and 60 grit SC on my G35. You can definitely wash out any dirt or skin that gets stuck in it. Just use a soft toothbrush and some water. If it’s stubborn build up add some dish soap. Just make sure your not scraping hard at it.

 

Applying SC with epoxy is just like applying paint to something the durability will all depend on your prep work. The better you degrease the better looking and more durable SC will be.

 

Once mine really starts to come off from use, I’ll just heat and scrape, and then reapply. I wouldn’t do touch ups, as it likely won’t look very good.

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53 minutes ago, Dutycalls75 said:

 

I did a 2-part epoxy and 60 grit SC on my G35. You can definitely wash out any dirt or skin that gets stuck in it. Just use a soft toothbrush and some water. If it’s stubborn build up add some dish soap. Just make sure your not scraping hard at it.

 

Applying SC with epoxy is just like applying paint to something the durability will all depend on your prep work. The better you degrease the better looking and more durable SC will be.

 

Once mine really starts to come off from use, I’ll just heat and scrape, and then reapply. I wouldn’t do touch ups, as it likely won’t look very good.

Where did you get the 60 grit SC?  

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I did a 2-part epoxy and 60 grit SC on my G35. You can definitely wash out any dirt or skin that gets stuck in it. Just use a soft toothbrush and some water. If it’s stubborn build up add some dish soap. Just make sure your not scraping hard at it.
 
Applying SC with epoxy is just like applying paint to something the durability will all depend on your prep work. The better you degrease the better looking and more durable SC will be.
 
Once mine really starts to come off from use, I’ll just heat and scrape, and then reapply. I wouldn’t do touch ups, as it likely won’t look very good.

Thanks. I'm going to try it out and see how it holds up next season.


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You will enjoy the heck out of it. I got another bag of 60 grit from Oldawan Tools. Shipped out fast and at a great price. 

 

The above advice is extremely important. Be absolutely meticulous with preparing the surface for treatment. Isopropanol does a great job of removing oils from your paws. I'd also suggest using a can of air to blow off any dust and definitely use gloves when you're working to prevent contaminating the surface. Once you sprinkle the silicon carbide on, don't touch it. Do not press it in, do not even fondle it. Let it sit for 24 hours and you will be rewarded with an awesome finish that will last a good long while. 

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1 hour ago, MJinPA said:


Thanks. I'm going to try it out and see how it holds up next season.


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I have been really happy with mine. So much so I am working on trying to get a pair of cheap plastic grips for my accu-Shadow and doing the same thing.

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I've used grit in various sizes and configurations-36, 60,90 and 60/90.  Although I prefer the 36 grit from a texture and "grippiness" standpoint, for me the 60/90 combo wears much better over time.  I got about 18 months of use from the 60/90 set up and around 9 months from the 36.  The 36 seemed to wear faster, maybe due to the larger particle size.  I used the exact same prep and application for all grit sizes on a Glock 20 and 21.   

 

On my G35 I tried the recommendation of heating the receiver and grip tape (3m tape) and will probably stay with that.  I used the SiCarbide around the top of the backstrap and trigger guard.  I really like how it has held up.

 

And yes, removal and re-application is easy, heat and scrape.

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