RippinSVT Posted April 30, 2016 Share Posted April 30, 2016 (edited) Supplies: -10ft 4x6 -10ft 4x4 -1 50lb bag of concrete -10ft length of 1/2" rebar -6 tip-over 8" plates (the kind with bases, not included in $55 cost, as price varies greatly) -12 heavy duty eye-bolts (I used some that had 2.5" long stems with 5/16" course thread, and 5/8" eyes) -Some strips of scrap steel for protecting wood (optional) -24" of heavy wall steel pipe, 5/8" or 9/16" (cut in 4" lengths) Cut 10ft 4x4 in half and concrete into ground 10 feet apart (outside to outside), with 44.5" standing (the remaining 3.5" from the cross bar will make it a standard 4ft tall rack). Then used a table saw to run the 4x6 through in 1/4" increments to rough in a channel for the hinge assembly. Use chisel to clear channel. Attach 4x6 beam to top of 4x4's using long nails or screws. Then, mark out your spacing (I use 16" on-center Bianchi spacing), and sink eye-bolts in just above flush, leaving some play room on either side of plate. Screw in and out to adjust bar tension and plate tilt. Next, weld 4" sections of pipe flush to the bottom-rear of plates. Now, insert rebar through plates/eye-bolts and adjust to achieve the proper tilt/height. Screw pieces of flat steel to the front/top to protect from misses and flak, and test. Plates just sitting there after I sunk the posts and leveled it all. Channel cut 1.5"x1.25", rebar/plates just laying there. Eye-bolts screwed in and spaced out correctly, strips of steel screwed to crossbar. Pipe welded to the rear of plate bases. Everything mounted up and plates tilted slightly forward (prevents flak and accidental tipping) Works like a charm with almost no tuning...and I actually hit the plates one handed! I plan to add a resetting mechanism, some extra flat steel guarding, and some dampeners to prevent bar wobble with heavier calibers. http://vid102.photobucket.com/albums/m112/RippinSVT/IMG_0439.mp4 Edited April 30, 2016 by RippinSVT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TonytheTiger Posted April 30, 2016 Share Posted April 30, 2016 My plate rack started out looking similar. You'll want that steel protecting the 4x6 sooner than later, lumber disappears very quickly when high speed fragments abound. And if you have guests shoot at your range you'll need something to protect the legs, you would be amazed how many people can consistently hit the legs while aiming at the plates... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RippinSVT Posted April 30, 2016 Author Share Posted April 30, 2016 My plate rack started out looking similar. You'll want that steel protecting the 4x6 sooner than later, lumber disappears very quickly when high speed fragments abound. And if you have guests shoot at your range you'll need something to protect the legs, you would be amazed how many people can consistently hit the legs while aiming at the plates... Yeah I'll have steel on the top ASAP when the weather clears. As far as the legs...I suppose I must. I don't think I would ever hit one, but I have no doubt newer shooters at my range will clobber them. lol. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TonytheTiger Posted April 30, 2016 Share Posted April 30, 2016 They will, I promise. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RippinSVT Posted April 30, 2016 Author Share Posted April 30, 2016 hahaha thanks Tony. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brytec Posted April 30, 2016 Share Posted April 30, 2016 That's so cool Rip.. Wish I'm handy like you!!! Awesome rack!! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aandabooks Posted April 30, 2016 Share Posted April 30, 2016 You've got me thinking now. Ebay is pretty cheap for plates. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RippinSVT Posted April 30, 2016 Author Share Posted April 30, 2016 That's where mine came from, maybe $65 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aandabooks Posted May 1, 2016 Share Posted May 1, 2016 I found a seller with 4 8" plates for $39.95 shipped. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Audioman Posted May 17, 2016 Share Posted May 17, 2016 Nice Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RippinSVT Posted May 17, 2016 Author Share Posted May 17, 2016 I built a complete resetting system for the above last week. Works like butter and is very robust. Cost me another $30 or so in do-dads (rope, pulleys, springs). I'll post pics soon. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rangerdug Posted May 18, 2016 Share Posted May 18, 2016 (edited) You had my interest up until you said screw a flat piece of steel to the front. bullets and flat steel don't mix. That becomes amplified when screwed/ bolted to wood exposed to the elements. End result is a two way $55 pie rack. Hence why you don't see flat surfaces on pie racks Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Edited May 18, 2016 by Rangerdug Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmorris Posted May 18, 2016 Share Posted May 18, 2016 (edited) bullets and flat steel don't mix.Flat steel is the only kind I like to shoot at. If the surface is not flat I replace the steel, cratered surfaces send stuff back, flat and they just frag radially.Watch the beginning of this video and note that the impacts crater the surface of the steel used and see how much goes back in the direction it came from, then fast forward to 7:30 or so and watch the impacts on a harder surface that remains flat upon impact and you can see what I am talking about. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QfDoQwIAaXg Even more flat surfaces on this one than just the plates as well. Edited May 18, 2016 by jmorris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rancher5 Posted May 18, 2016 Share Posted May 18, 2016 Supplies: -10ft 4x6 -10ft 4x4 -1 50lb bag of concrete -10ft length of 1/2" rebar -6 tip-over 8" plates (the kind with bases, not included in $55 cost, as price varies greatly) -12 heavy duty eye-bolts (I used some that had 2.5" long stems with 5/16" course thread, and 5/8" eyes) -Some strips of scrap steel for protecting wood (optional) -24" of heavy wall steel pipe, 5/8" or 9/16" (cut in 4" lengths) Cut 10ft 4x4 in half and concrete into ground 10 feet apart (outside to outside), with 44.5" standing (the remaining 3.5" from the cross bar will make it a standard 4ft tall rack). Then used a table saw to run the 4x6 through in 1/4" increments to rough in a channel for the hinge assembly. Use chisel to clear channel. Attach 4x6 beam to top of 4x4's using long nails or screws. Then, mark out your spacing (I use 16" on-center Bianchi spacing), and sink eye-bolts in just above flush, leaving some play room on either side of plate. Screw in and out to adjust bar tension and plate tilt. Next, weld 4" sections of pipe flush to the bottom-rear of plates. Now, insert rebar through plates/eye-bolts and adjust to achieve the proper tilt/height. Screw pieces of flat steel to the front/top to protect from misses and flak, and test. Plates just sitting there after I sunk the posts and leveled it all. Channel cut 1.5"x1.25", rebar/plates just laying there. Eye-bolts screwed in and spaced out correctly, strips of steel screwed to crossbar. Pipe welded to the rear of plate bases. Everything mounted up and plates tilted slightly forward (prevents flak and accidental tipping) Works like a charm with almost no tuning...and I actually hit the plates one handed! I plan to add a resetting mechanism, some extra flat steel guarding, and some dampeners to prevent bar wobble with heavier calibers. http://vid102.photobucket.com/albums/m112/RippinSVT/IMG_0439.mp4 Your pic links are broken, like to see a pic from the back, Great ideaSent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rancher5 Posted May 19, 2016 Share Posted May 19, 2016 Supplies: -10ft 4x6 -10ft 4x4 -1 50lb bag of concrete -10ft length of 1/2" rebar -6 tip-over 8" plates (the kind with bases, not included in $55 cost, as price varies greatly) -12 heavy duty eye-bolts (I used some that had 2.5" long stems with 5/16" course thread, and 5/8" eyes) -Some strips of scrap steel for protecting wood (optional) -24" of heavy wall steel pipe, 5/8" or 9/16" (cut in 4" lengths) Cut 10ft 4x4 in half and concrete into ground 10 feet apart (outside to outside), with 44.5" standing (the remaining 3.5" from the cross bar will make it a standard 4ft tall rack). Then used a table saw to run the 4x6 through in 1/4" increments to rough in a channel for the hinge assembly. Use chisel to clear channel. Attach 4x6 beam to top of 4x4's using long nails or screws. Then, mark out your spacing (I use 16" on-center Bianchi spacing), and sink eye-bolts in just above flush, leaving some play room on either side of plate. Screw in and out to adjust bar tension and plate tilt. Next, weld 4" sections of pipe flush to the bottom-rear of plates. Now, insert rebar through plates/eye-bolts and adjust to achieve the proper tilt/height. Screw pieces of flat steel to the front/top to protect from misses and flak, and test. Plates just sitting there after I sunk the posts and leveled it all. Channel cut 1.5"x1.25", rebar/plates just laying there. Eye-bolts screwed in and spaced out correctly, strips of steel screwed to crossbar. Pipe welded to the rear of plate bases. Everything mounted up and plates tilted slightly forward (prevents flak and accidental tipping) Works like a charm with almost no tuning...and I actually hit the plates one handed! I plan to add a resetting mechanism, some extra flat steel guarding, and some dampeners to prevent bar wobble with heavier calibers. http://vid102.photobucket.com/albums/m112/RippinSVT/IMG_0439.mp4 Your pic links are broken, like to see a pic from the back, Great ideaSent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk Perfect some reason I can see it now.Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
a matt Posted May 19, 2016 Share Posted May 19, 2016 Very cool, thanks for the info... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MHitchcock Posted May 26, 2016 Share Posted May 26, 2016 Now I just have to convince my friend to let me build one at his farm haha Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eddiegunks Posted July 3, 2016 Share Posted July 3, 2016 thanks for the ideas! i see a plate rack in my future! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RippinSVT Posted July 6, 2016 Author Share Posted July 6, 2016 I meant to update this thread a while ago. Here's how the resetting mechanism progressed. First I got a piece of 1" solid round stock I found in a barn that was perfectly straight. I also found some "tabs" for an old field implement, and welded those on to the shaft at correct increments. Once complete, I used conduit straps to secure to rack and as a pivot point. They work fantastic. Next, I had to weld on a lever, but decided to do a hub first so I could more easily retrofit in the future. Lever bolted on, bumpers epoxied to reset tabs (act as dampeners). Finally, I added a pulley system to reset plates. I tried several options but this is by far the most reliable. Takes almost no effort to reset even at 30yds out. I had to add a stop pin for the lever to hit and index plates so they'd fall on the bumpers. I also added a return spring to bring it all back to said index point. I've shot several thousand rounds at it so far with not one issue. It's more reliable than any unit I've shot at a match. I've tweaked the lean of the plates a couple times but that's no big deal. A .22 knocks them down at 40 yards, and .357 and .45 at 10 yards doesn't phase it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boxer1 Posted July 13, 2016 Share Posted July 13, 2016 I like the design probably less frag from hitting low. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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