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Building and AR for 3 Gun


Ponce

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In the next few months I plan on building an AR for 3 gun. I am hoping for any input folks here would be willing to give on the various components. I have built AR's in the past. I am new to 3 gun and will just be shooting club events.

From a quality standpoint I am looking to build a reliable quality gun, however I don't plan on spending extra money because of a certain brand name or that it is the "in thing" right now. So in the end I will be looking for quality parts that add to the performance of the gun.

Any input would be greatly appreciated on the following list, companies, brands and especially specific parts. Thanks in advance.

1. Stripped lower

- lower components

- trigger

2. Stripped upper

- upper components

3. Barrel (5.56)

4. Compensator / brake

5. BCG

6. Stock

7. Buffer

8. Handguard

9. Optics

Any other input or information that could be helpful in choosing the parts for my build.

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Find an upper receiver without a the hole for a forward assist or dust cover. That will cut down on some of the weight. Don't get billet receivers. Lower parts kits can be purchased without grip and triggers. You're going to change those anyway, so save some money there. Don't get an RRA NM trigger, they're designed for Service Rifle, not action shooting. I went with a POF trigger as they're relatively inexpensive and are good triggers.

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Here are some things that I would choose for a 3-gun rifle without going crazy on cost:

Trigger - Either a Velocity 3lb drop-in or do this to a mil-spec trigger: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pCPLe6FwNkQ

Brake/Comp - I just picked up an Ares Armor Effin-A MKII and it's fantastic! You can tune it to your gun/grip/stance/etc. Another solid option is the Miculek Comp. It's hard to beat for the price, I just like the tuneability of the Effin-A better.

Barrel - 223 Wylde chamber 1:7 or 1:8 twist. Mid length gas for 16" barrel, rifle gas for 18".

Gas block - adjustable, many brands to choose from, quite a few under $40.

BCG - low mass, plenty of options out there (JP, Voodoo, BoomFab, RCA, etc.)

Buffer - JP Silent Captured Spring and buy the extra springs. Between this, the low mass carrier, and the adjustable gas block, you can tune the rifle to shoot very soft.

Handguard - I prefer long and smooth (that's what she said...). I like 15" keymod handguards with or without a top rail. My current two favorites are Matrix Arms Lavi and the Odin Works KMOD rail (they make a few 3-gun models in cool colors).

Stock - whatever is comfortable to you, but you want it to be solid. Some people like adjustable combs (cheek rests), but I haven't found one that works well with a charging handle.

Optics - depends on what division you'll be shooting in. Do some research on what is allowed, then start looking at options that are within the rules.

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Thank you to everyone that has replied.It will help me spend my money only once"hopefully ". The ARs I have built are to go burn some ammo at the range. My hope for this build is to be a quality product with a purpose.

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1. Stripped lower ... Whatever you can find cheapest

- lower components ... Red Barn Armory has a BYO so you can get what you need/want without buying stuff you dont

- trigger ... CMC Flat or Hiperfire 3G/ECL

2. Stripped upper ... Anything without a Forward Assist and then use a Raptor charging handle

3. Barrel (5.56) .... Stretch16!

4. Compensator / brake ... DPMS Miculek

5. BCG ... JP LMOS or VDI Low Mass

6. Stock ... Dealers choice

7. Buffer ... Empty a carbine buffer

8. Handguard ... Dealers choice (ALG is quite nice)

9. Optics ... Vortex StrikeEagle in a Aero SPR

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1. Stripped lower ... Whatever you can find cheapest

- lower components ... Red Barn Armory has a BYO so you can get what you need/want without buying stuff you dont

- trigger ... CMC Flat or Hiperfire 3G/ECL

2. Stripped upper ... Anything without a Forward Assist and then use a Raptor charging handle

3. Barrel (5.56) .... Stretch16!

4. Compensator / brake ... DPMS Miculek

5. BCG ... JP LMOS or VDI Low Mass

6. Stock ... Dealers choice

7. Buffer ... Empty a carbine buffer

8. Handguard ... Dealers choice (ALG is quite nice)

9. Optics ... Vortex StrikeEagle in a Aero SPR

I tried the VDI Low Mass and was not able to get the bolt to lock back. I did not try removing the weight in the carbine buffer. Is this a standard practice when using a low mass carrier?

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1. Stripped lower ... Whatever you can find cheapest

- lower components ... Red Barn Armory has a BYO so you can get what you need/want without buying stuff you dont

- trigger ... CMC Flat or Hiperfire 3G/ECL

2. Stripped upper ... Anything without a Forward Assist and then use a Raptor charging handle

3. Barrel (5.56) .... Stretch16!

4. Compensator / brake ... DPMS Miculek

5. BCG ... JP LMOS or VDI Low Mass

6. Stock ... Dealers choice

7. Buffer ... Empty a carbine buffer

8. Handguard ... Dealers choice (ALG is quite nice)

9. Optics ... Vortex StrikeEagle in a Aero SPR

I tried the VDI Low Mass and was not able to get the bolt to lock back. I did not try removing the weight in the carbine buffer. Is this a standard practice when using a low mass carrier?

My wife is running the VDI in her rifle this year with the Stretch16 and its included fixed block. No issues with the bolt locking back and it was tested with a full mass carbine buffer and then the gutted. The gutted is just less reciprocal mass for less movement

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1. Stripped lower ... Whatever you can find cheapest

- lower components ... Red Barn Armory has a BYO so you can get what you need/want without buying stuff you dont

- trigger ... CMC Flat or Hiperfire 3G/ECL

2. Stripped upper ... Anything without a Forward Assist and then use a Raptor charging handle

3. Barrel (5.56) .... Stretch16!

4. Compensator / brake ... DPMS Miculek

5. BCG ... JP LMOS or VDI Low Mass

6. Stock ... Dealers choice

7. Buffer ... Empty a carbine buffer

8. Handguard ... Dealers choice (ALG is quite nice)

9. Optics ... Vortex StrikeEagle in a Aero SPR

I tried the VDI Low Mass and was not able to get the bolt to lock back. I did not try removing the weight in the carbine buffer. Is this a standard practice when using a low mass carrier?

My wife is running the VDI in her rifle this year with the Stretch16 and its included fixed block. No issues with the bolt locking back and it was tested with a full mass carbine buffer and then the gutted. The gutted is just less reciprocal mass for less movement

Sounds similar to my setup, except I'm running a JP adjustable gas block on the Stretch16. VDI sent me a pre-paid label to send the BCG in for an exchange, so maybe I just was unlucky and ended up with an out of spec carrier. I've tried the VDI is 3 different rifle so far with no luck (2 fixed gas blocks and 1 adjustable). Apologies for hijacking your thread Ponce.

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1. Stripped lower ... Whatever you can find cheapest

- lower components ... Red Barn Armory has a BYO so you can get what you need/want without buying stuff you dont

- trigger ... CMC Flat or Hiperfire 3G/ECL

2. Stripped upper ... Anything without a Forward Assist and then use a Raptor charging handle

3. Barrel (5.56) .... Stretch16!

4. Compensator / brake ... DPMS Miculek

5. BCG ... JP LMOS or VDI Low Mass

6. Stock ... Dealers choice

7. Buffer ... Empty a carbine buffer

8. Handguard ... Dealers choice (ALG is quite nice)

9. Optics ... Vortex StrikeEagle in a Aero SPR

  1. a. Lower: Known good forged lower of your choice unless you have the ducats for a lightweight billet, but I'd go with a good quality forging.

    b. LPK: Sionics "Builder" LPK. I wouldn't cheap out on the LPK; you want those parts in spec.

    c. Trigger: The world is your oyster. I'm currently running a HiperFire 24C. In general I would recommend single stage and fairly light (relative to the mil-spec weight) for quick shooting.

  2. Upper: Agreed. There are several to consider ranging from Anderson "Sport" upper to Stubborn Mule Outdoor Supply (SMOS) SM slickside. I have a V7 "Basic" with scalloped rail and frankly it looks like an Anderson "Sport" that's been milled - I don't recommend it for that reason, as the machining is not worth the $100 over an Anderson "Sport" upper.

    CH: AXTS Raptor, 100% agreed.

  3. Barrel: I agree with the barrel length of 16" and a mid-length gas system. There are many to choose from, my only suggestion is to avoid a pencil barrel and HBAR profiles - the pencil profile might actually get too hot while the thermal mass of the HBAR isn't needed IMO. You'll want to do research on whether you want stainless steel, button or cut rifling, etc.. I went with a Faxon Firearms Gunner profile barrel - it wasn't too expensive and I didn't want/need a cut-rifled match barrel.

  4. Comp/Brake: A lot to choose from. Do some research. I currently run a VG6, but have under consideration several others including the Armalite brake, Surefire Warcomp, and another brake whose name I forgot.

  5. BCG: JP LMOS is highly recommended. Titanium BCGs are too expensive per dollar, IMO. Aluminum BCGs wear too quickly. LMOS is a great balance of weight, strength, and most importantly cost.

  6. Stock: Your choice. You should have a preference based on weight, profile, feature set. I currently run that MFT stock. You may want to consider a fixed stock as well.

  7. Buffer: We'll get back to this, but you want one that matches your receiver extension. Fixed stocks get rifle buffers (99% of the time) and telescoping stocks get carbine buffers.

  8. Handguard: I do like my ALGs, but I run the SLR Ion Ultra Lite on my competition rifle. It is much lighter and much more expensive. The ALG is a good balance of weight, strength, and cost.

  9. Optics: Choose the class you want to run in, many people run a 1-4x or 1-6x scope. Fixed mount for a scope is a good decision as well and the Aero is fairly lightweight. I personally run an un-magnified red dot, but that may change. I see plenty of people running red dots with magnifiers as well. I also occasionally use a 3x compact ACOG.

So about buffers? I highly recommend and adjustable gas block. I run a titanium SLR, but there are many options. I don't know that I would recommend the cheapest as you want one that will continue functioning the longest with the least amount of maintenance and most repeatable adjustability IMO. SLR comes highly recommended, but there are others like Syrac in this price range. On the lower end there's stuff like Odin Works. Do your research to get an adjustable gas block...which will allow you to run a lighter buffer which should decrease the perceived recoil. Using this combination of optimal buffer and adjustable gas will require time and ammo to tune, so if you don't want to do that then ignore this entire section.

Edited by SubOrbital
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I have to thank everyone that has replied so far. There is already a ton of valuable information shared so far.

I have started some detailed research based on what information in this thread. I have found that I am deveating some from what I had originally planned. That is exactly what I was looking for hopefully it will keep me from spending too much money twice.

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Definitely buy a quality upper and a good handguard, cheapy keymods off eBay or like Monstrum Tactical aren't worth the savings. I've had great luck with my Green Mountain rifle barrel. It's 18" fluted rifle gas stainless in 223 WYLDE. I use a JM DPMS compensator because they're hard to beat for $40. ACE Skeleton stock or the Luthar are both light. I have a friend that makes BCGs for a lot of gun manufacturers, and he makes low mass ones, so he hooked me up with one. I run a Taccom light weight adjustable buffer with a JP Spring. I like the CMC triggers, but there are lots of good options. I also run a SLR sentry 7 adjustable gas block, a must have. Nordics 18" barrel and the stretch 16 are also something to consider. Both great, but when I ordered the stretch 16 wasn't available and I've always had good luck with GM barrels

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I'm in the same boat as the OP. Since gas blocks came up several times I was wondering if anyone has compared multiple adjustable blocks? Of the many choices, I'm interested in either the SLR or Odin models but I don't know whether the SLR adjustable gas block functionally outperforms the Odin Works gas block if anyone has used both? Which holds position, lasts longer, needs less maintenance if any and is more robust?

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I'm in the same boat as the OP. Since gas blocks came up several times I was wondering if anyone has compared multiple adjustable blocks? Of the many choices, I'm interested in either the SLR or Odin models but I don't know whether the SLR adjustable gas block functionally outperforms the Odin Works gas block if anyone has used both? Which holds position, lasts longer, needs less maintenance if any and is more robust?

I have tried a bunch of gas blocks... (and everything else) I have 3 SLR's right now. 2 of the Ti and one steel and they all get stuck if I don't adjust them right after shooting. They all seem to do this but I was told the Ti wouldn't. I am going Odin Works this time

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