makeshift plate rack

[Hello]

Does anyone know how JJ attached the plates to the railroad tie in this video?

Thanks,

[Hello]

Check six bump! LOL

[yz125mm700]

I dont, but I don't see why you couldn't just take a hammer and drive them into the railroad tie a half inch or so. I would think they would fall and set back up fine.

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[RippinSVT]

I'd sure love to know as well. My plate rack is basically 2 sawhorses made into one long sawhorse, with a 2x6 and some reinforcement, and I use those same 8" knockovers.

[Hello]

I dont, but I don't see why you couldn't just take a hammer and drive them into the railroad tie a half inch or so. I would think they would fall and set back up fine.

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Good idea; however, it would require actually bending over to pick plates up. Too much like exercise!

[outerlimits]

if you weld on a piece of steel tubing on the bottom of the plate, then run a piece of rebar thru them across the RR tie.

[jmorris]

Hinge welded to the back side with the bottom of the target low enough so it stops just past vertical?

[MemphisMechanic]

^ hey! That's a pic of my now-defunct airsoft plate rack.

(Hence sheet metal plates. Not recommended for centerfire!)

Edited April 7, 2016 by MemphisMechanic

[PKT1106]

The way they fell, I would say some heavy duty hinges.

[jmorris]

Or it didn't last that long.

[RippinSVT]

A little update to this thread.

I'm currently building a similar plate rack to JJ's seen here. I bought a 10ft 4x6 and mounted it on 4x4" posts concreted in the ground (4ft tall rack, 1ft in concrete) Before I mounted it, I ran it through a table saw repeatedly at about 1.25" depth, then chiseled out the left over material leaving a 1.25"x1.5" wide channel down the wood. I cut a piece of 1/2" rebar to 10'1.5" so the ends stuck out from the channel 3/4". All I have left to do is weld 4" pieces of 3/4" round tubing to the bottom rear of the tip-over plate bases, and then fix some end caps over the ends of the 4x6 with 1/2" holes for the rebar to protrude. I'll add some rubber dampeners and spacers as I tweak the rebar to prevent excess vibration/movement. After the tough stuff is done, I'll mount a 10ft piece of 3x3x1/4" angle iron across the leading edge to protect it. The plates use the original base for stability/indexing when flipped up, and getting the right "slight forward" angle is as simple as raising/lowering the rebar fractions of an inch. Should be a real solid rack within the week.

Prices:

-6 tip over plates, 8": $60-100 depending

-10ft 4x4, 10ft 4x6, dozen 6" pole barn nails, bag of Quikrete, 10ft 1/2" rebar: $43

-10ft 3x3x1/4" angle: $36

-24" 3/4" round stock: free (maybe $10 normally)

So roughly $200 for a pretty bulletproof rack. Planning to add a resetting system in the future with a Z-bar and a pull-cord. Will post pics when it's done next week.

Edited April 27, 2016 by RippinSVT

[jmorris]

I make mine with the plate quite a bit higher that the pivot point. Makes them less sensitive to shot placement, even a low hit with a .22 LR at 200 yards will knock down an 8" 3/8 thick plate, and there is less stress on the hinge (the part that fails on most racks).

Mine also reset using old power window motors automatically when the last plate falls.

[yz125mm700]

A little update to this thread.

I'm currently building a similar plate rack to JJ's seen here. I bought a 10ft 4x6 and mounted it on 4x4" posts concreted in the ground (4ft tall rack, 1ft in concrete) Before I mounted it, I ran it through a table saw repeatedly at about 1.25" depth, then chiseled out the left over material leaving a 1.25"x1.5" wide channel down the wood. I cut a piece of 1/2" rebar to 10'1.5" so the ends stuck out from the channel 3/4". All I have left to do is weld 4" pieces of 3/4" round tubing to the bottom rear of the tip-over plate bases, and then fix some end caps over the ends of the 4x6 with 1/2" holes for the rebar to protrude. I'll add some rubber dampeners and spacers as I tweak the rebar to prevent excess vibration/movement. After the tough stuff is done, I'll mount a 10ft piece of 3x3x1/4" angle iron across the leading edge to protect it. The plates use the original base for stability/indexing when flipped up, and getting the right "slight forward" angle is as simple as raising/lowering the rebar fractions of an inch. Should be a real solid rack within the week.

Prices:

-6 tip over plates, 8": $60-100 depending

-10ft 4x4, 10ft 4x6, dozen 6" pole barn nails, bag of Quikrete, 10ft 1/2" rebar: $43

-10ft 3x3x1/4" angle: $36

-24" 3/4" round stock: free (maybe $10 normally)

So roughly $200 for a pretty bulletproof rack. Planning to add a resetting system in the future with a Z-bar and a pull-cord. Will post pics when it's done next week.

Ever get this done?

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[morpheus]

https://www.atlastargetworks.com/collections/target-assemblies/products/poor-mans-plate-rack

[MemphisMechanic]

Ever get this done?

Two posts down in this same forum:

http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=232941#entry2597432

Edited June 1, 2016 by MemphisMechanic

[jchris4769]

I make mine with the plate quite a bit higher that the pivot point. Makes them less sensitive to shot placement, even a low hit with a .22 LR at 200 yards will knock down an 8" 3/8 thick plate, and there is less stress on the hinge (the part that fails on most racks).

Mine also reset using old power window motors automatically when the last plate falls.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lIOcNNcLxnU

That's awesome! Care to provide details on the window motor set up?

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[jmorris]

It is a window motor driving a gear that the reset arm is attached to,

On the larger one I used a Chevy flex plate for the "gear".

The photo above is "transport" position, I cut the power when the reset arm is at TDC. That keeps the plates from being able to pinch fingers. Normally power is cut when it is BDC, so the arm is all the way down before power is cut, by the switch at the bottom.

When the last plate falls it hits a momentary switch (closing it) powering the motor off the open lower switch, then it makes another completes a revolution before opening the bottom switch and stopping again.

Edited August 4, 2016 by jmorris

[jchris4769]

It is a window motor driving a gear that the reset arm is attached to,

On the larger one I used a Chevy flex plate for the "gear".

The photo above is "transport" position, I cut the power when the reset arm is at TDC. That keeps the plates from being able to pinch fingers. Normally power is cut when it is BDC, so the arm is all the way down before power is cut, by the switch at the bottom.

When the last plate falls it hits a momentary switch (closing it) powering the motor off the open lower switch, then it makes another completes a revolution before opening the bottom switch and stopping again.

Nice

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