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Beretta 1301 Competiton - Problem loading


WNC Seabee

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  • 2 weeks later...
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Hi Guys;

I am having the same problem with my new 1301... I am a bit of a newbie to shotguns, so can someone give me some tips or a step by step on how to remove the cartridge latch in order to polish it?

Does the trigger group have to come out to remove it?

Cheers;

Eric

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Ask and ye shall receive...........

I scored a 1301 last week :D

Right at the 3 minute mark is where he's removed the piece that needs polishing. Getting the pin out that the mag catch pivots on is awkward, but it can be done!

Just a little polish on the face of the catch is all it took to cure mine.

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Ok ran into a snag... I have tons of hex/allen wrenches (metric and SAE) but can't seem to find one that fits to unscrew the latch hex screw (screw that holds the bolt release on)? It looks to be 2.2mm which is NOT a common size... How did you guys get that screw off?

Cheers;

Eric

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Ok ran into a snag... I have tons of hex/allen wrenches (metric and SAE) but can't seem to find one that fits to unscrew the latch hex screw (screw that holds the bolt release on)? It looks to be 2.2mm which is NOT a common size... How did you guys get that screw off?

Cheers;

Eric

I *think* I used a Torx wrench that came with a Primary Arms RDS

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Ok disregard... when I got a magnifying glass on it, it looked like a Torx driver would fit , and it did... It sure looks like an allen screw though, usually Torx fasteners are more prominent in their star pattern. Either way all is good and I feel kinda like a dummy!

Cheers;

Eric

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WNC Seebee... you were right! I missed seeing your response when I replied! Really appreciate the info and help!

... with that I manged to get things apart and back together... and best of all this procedure worked like a charm for me too!

Thank you very much for the help guys, saved me from sending this back to Beretta, and got me well acquainted with my 1301!

Cheers;

Eric

Edited by Racer944
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  • 2 weeks later...

It may stop working again, mine did this weekend at Tarheel the quick and easy fix during a match is to push the little button and smack the fore end on the side with your hand. You have to smack it pretty good but it drops a shell and you are ready to rock. The gun functions fine it just doesn't want to drop that first shell.

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So I was taking a look at my new, stock, unfired 1301 tonight and I noticed I have this problem too. Sometimes when there's two shells in the tube and I hit the cartridge stop release it'll throw one onto the lifter, but it's not always guaranteed, and it won't work for any other number of shells in the tube.

What really gives me a clue is that if I hit that stop, the lifter drops, but the latch doesn't fully swing into the position it does with an empty tube. When I push the shell in the tube a tiny bit forward so it takes pressure off the latch for a second, when I release pressure it works as advertised and the cartridge drops onto the lifter. So obviously there's something that's causing drag on the latch, probably the geometry. I'm wondering if somehow during recoil the inertia of the shells takes enough pressure off of the latch for the gun to properly cycle. I'm disappointed because my AL391 that I use for clays has pretty much the exact same manual of arms, and it's always worked like a charm. It's been one of my favorite guns to shoot and was part of the reason I got the 1301.

At least I know that by polishing that latch up a bit it'll fix things. Or maybe getting a stronger spring in the latch...

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Broke the edges and polished the face for about 30 seconds with some 800 grit, then went over it with 2000 grit to smooth it out, and it works like a charm. Since it would occasionally release shells from the tube before, I figured "less is more." If anything, I'm worried I took off too much!

When I work the latch to unload the magazine, I can feel the difference. It's no longer dragging a sharp edge over the rim of the shell.

Edited by attakmint
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  • 8 months later...

Same issue on 1301 Comp purchased in December 2015...ran it twice and had issues getting shell to release from tube when charging the gun. It ran great once it's ready to fire. I followed the instructions highlighted here and seems to work fine. I will update if any issues. Thanks!

Edited by mkgolfer
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Had the same problem. After some trial and error, I found out that the first shell release (and sometimes the second) is due to the spring. I always had thsi problem with the spring supplied with the +4 extension.

I solved it by using the original spring the shotgun came with. Not only it makes the loading easier and I never had a shell release problem, but the original spring allows one more shell in the tube (so I got a 10 shell capacity tube)

So before polishing anything, why not try a lighter spring (or cut a few coils)

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...
  • 1 month later...

Got a new 1301 sitting at the store under California's 10 day waiting period. Will see if this problem occurs with dummy rounds when get it home. Would appreciate if anyone has responses to the last couple of suggestions:

"So before polishing anything, why not try a lighter spring (or cut a few coils)?"

"Has anyone tried leaving the tube loaded to Max capacity for a week or two? I know that Beretta Mags work better when treated this way."

Perhaps I can test the second suggestion if my new Beretta has this dysfunction.

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  • 1 year later...

I know this is an old thread, but I started having this problem on Wednesday and have another shoot on Sunday. Thanks to everyone who added info here, after reading this I got my Beretta running 100% again. You guys are the best.

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Sorry for the short response earlier.. So Introduced a friend into 3 gun he recently picked up a 1301 brand new expidited from the factory.. I snapped some photos of them side to side his has a more extended lifter also the serial number has been relocated to me the port seems slightly larger on the factory port but hard to tell as mine is heavily worked over after shooting with 3 gun champ Kieth Garcia..

 

His gun we first started off running fiocchi 1 oz 8shot 1170fps shooting dynamics. 

Second shell would not feed tried the same load in my gun fired just fine..

 

then we tried fiocchi jm 3gun shells 1oz 7.5 1170 fps gun fired flawlessly 

 

then we ran 11/8 7.5 1200 fps jm 3gun shells guns fired flawlessly

 

Edited by TheStagePlan
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Picture didn't work. I wondered about the lifter, I saw a 1301 at a match that either had an entirely different lifter than my early 1301 or the most perfect welding and polishing job I've ever seen. Couldn't find the guns owner to ask though.

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On 8/26/2017 at 6:52 PM, Wheelsonly said:

the new 1301s have a different lifter 

My sources at Beretta tell me that the new lifter and port shape, along with the serial number location was a factory change based on customer feedback (they listen!). This started with guns made earlier this year.

 

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On 8/26/2017 at 9:33 PM, Wheelsonly said:

Sorry for the short response earlier.. So Introduced a friend into 3 gun he recently picked up a 1301 brand new expidited from the factory.. I snapped some photos of them side to side his has a more extended lifter also the serial number has been relocated to me the port seems slightly larger on the factory port but hard to tell as mine is heavily worked over after shooting with 3 gun champ Kieth Garcia..

 

His gun we first started off running fiocchi 1 oz 8shot 1170fps shooting dynamics. 

Second shell would not feed tried the same load in my gun fired just fine..

 

then we tried fiocchi jm 3gun shells 1oz 7.5 1170 fps gun fired flawlessly 

 

then we ran 11/8 7.5 1200 fps jm 3gun shells guns fired flawlessly

 

 

How/where did you relocate the serial number on your gun?

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