First Time Fitting a 1911 Barrel....

[poison123]

So I finally got got a threaded barrel for my MARs custom. In my first attempt to fit it I'm running into one issue I haven't really seen on any of the forums. Inserting the barrel hood first like one would normally do for hte barrel I can maybe get it to go in 1.1" into the slide before no "easy" amount of force will get it to go in further. I'm assuming I'm going to need to dykem blue it, and slowly sand down the OD of the chamber area to get to slide in nicely.

My question is...how loose should I make the fit, should I try to keep it nice and tight? Or make it fairly loose so it comes in and out fairly easy?

[Steve RA]

I'd see if any of your shooting friends has any experience in that field and have him/them look at it before any serious alterations are attempted.

[poison123]

Zero have exp

[Steve RA]

Ok, most slides don't narrow down after the first inch or so on the inside. Looking at your slide from the bottom, does it seem to narrow down any after the first inch or so ???

[poison123]

Doesn't appear to. I'm doing comparision from the barrel that was gunsmith fitted to it when it was built awhile back to this new "nighthawk custom threaded barrel". And it looks like its just slightly oversized in a few spots that need to be threaded right. Specifically right before the first lug area ahead of the chamber.

I'm running out to get some dykem blue and will take pictures of what I mean.

Edited April 26, 2013 by poison123

[Steve RA]

That area would not be "threaded" but is where material might need to be removed. Usually the barrel will need to be reduced slightly where the lugs fit up into the corresponding recesses in the top of the slide. However, the diameter of the barrel is usually reduced ahead of the lugs all the way to the end. Is this a "bull barrel" or a normal configuration one ??

[donnyglock]

You can use a marker as well. I use a sharpie more than I use my dykem.

[StraightUp_OG]

Yeah sharpies rule and do post pic's so we can see and help.

Edited April 26, 2013 by StraightUp_OG

[ormondopen]

sharpies work great and are cheaper. it sounds like its rubbing the OD of the barrel at maybe the 3 or 3:30 position. Some builders will ream the slide with a .703 +/- reamer

[Steve RA]

If it goes in 1.1" then I'd guess it is hitting on the barrel lugs, because that is about the length of the chamber.

[redbird1976]

Before I removed any material, I'd get a set of calipers and measure your barrel that is already fitted and compare the dimensions to your new barrel. You should be able to determine fairly quickly where the material need to be removed and how much.

[ParaGunner]

Pics?

[poison123]

Stock Barrel OD .686

NightHawk Barrel OD .691

As far as the barrel will go in:

Top of the barrel with Blue and the marks:

Both sides and bottoms look like this, no apparent rubbing:

So basically my plan right now is to lap the top of the slide in those areas with 500 or 800 grit paper and work it down till it slides in.

[poison123]

Found where its binding at. Its actually where the OD of the bottom of the barrel meets the lower lug. I minorly sanded down that area of the side, so the area just about the bushing that would contact this area on the barrel and it fits great now.

[StraightUp_OG]

can you take a shot looking into the spring tunnel from the muzzle end? it is weird that its not rubbing on the bottom of the barrel or the feet.

[StraightUp_OG]

SWEET!

[poison123]

Here's another question. It appears I'm getting good top log contact since when I press on the barrel and try to push it out I can't. But my problem at the moment is the firing pin hole is still looking like its a little low with how its lining up. Is the solution to this to lap the top lugs to remove just a little material to get it to get closer to a circle vs the oval its currently at?

[Steve RA]

Yes, but when you think you are getting close, fit the link to the barrel and use the bushing - don't know how your gun is set up - or screw the comp on and keep checking to see if it will go into battery. This will prevent taking too much of the barrel lugs. Once it will go into battery without undue force, but not drop any when pressed on the chamber while in battery, you will be there.

[StraightUp_OG]

Also the further the lugs sit into the slide you may need to remove a little more material from the back of the hood. To check the centering put an empty case in the chamber and lock up the barrel then try and push the firing pin into the flash hole of the case through the slide. If you can push it in then the barrel lockup is centered if not you have a little more to go.

[poison123]

So concentrate on the lugs and the not the chamber portion of the barrel right?

And I actually already wasted a little bit of time doing the barrel link fitting.....that was interesting to say the least.

[wide45]

Is it a "drop in"?

Don't fit the link until you fit the lower lugs to the slide stop.

Don't fit the lower lugs until the upper lugs and hood are done.

[StraightUp_OG]

Yeah don't do anything to the chamber. Check the back of the barrel hood first if there is still to much material it will prevent the barrel from fully engaging the lugs as the link pushes the barrel up and it could bind.

Look at what jid2 did on page 10 of the CNC thread. It will show you where to look.

Also check out these vidz http://www.jackweigand.com/EBF1911.html

I know you don't have the tools but just substitute the mill and fancy jig for a file and a vise. It will show you the order and what to do.

Edited April 27, 2013 by StraightUp_OG

[poison123]

Alright got about as far as I think I'm going to get tonight. Cut down the hood a little more, and I lapped the top lugs very very lightly. Now the Firing pin hole is almost perfect as I can tell, and pressing the firing pin through the primer hole is easy with the lightest of force.

Got it all assembled now and can not get it to go into full battery no matter what I do. If I let the slide slam shut it'll lock up to the point where the trigger will drop the hammer. But If I ride the slide down it won't made it far enough for the trigger to drop the hammer. I'm not really sure where to go next on it, any suggestions?

[StraightUp_OG]

Now you need to finish fitting the lower lugs to get the slide stop to the lock up position. Before the mill I used a needle file and a sharpie. I will try to do a quick vid to show you what I would do.

[StraightUp_OG]

I use a round needle file and leave the link in. I do not remove any material from the link. It concentrates your focus on the lugs and helps keep the file on the correct radius (This is how I was taught). I use a sharpie (dykem works too) to guide even removal of material. Make a pass re-ink and make another pass rinse and repeat. Check by putting the slide stop and barrel in the gun and once it locks up you are there. There may still be that slight gap at the back of the slide and does not line up, that is ok. If you keep removing material until the slide meets the frame that , most of the time, is a touch to far for optimum lock up.

In the vid I am just giving the idea of the technique. This barrel has been fit and I was making room for the video. If I were really fitting this way I would be making shorter more deliberate strokes with the file.

https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B3M5WEBRUk9KMmQ2bUhhYjVLWXc/edit?usp=sharing

Edited April 27, 2013 by StraightUp_OG