Stoeger M3000 Scattergun?

[12Bravo]

Since you'll have it out, you might want to polish the sides of the extractor as well they probably got chewed up by the rough pocket.

[TitoR]

From the video, it looks like the shell was left behind, clear indication the extractor lost hold of the rim. My brother's M3K does the same thing. I'll let him know of this fix. Thanks


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[koreytm]

On 10/5/2016 at 11:19 AM, TitoR said:

From the video, it looks like the shell was left behind, clear indication the extractor lost hold of the rim. My brother's M3K does the same thing. I'll let him know of this fix. Thanks


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That's exactly what was happening. Sometimes it would pull the shell all the way back but not kick it out, sometimes it would pull it partway back (like the video), and sometimes it wouldn't pull it out at all (it would just load a new round right behind the old one).

[TheDrizzle]

TL;DR: Before I started this shotgun I didn’t know there was a such thing as semi-auto shotgun other than a Siaga 12.  Thanks to you guys I voided my warranty and now have an amazing shotgun. Pic heavy at the end.

  

I just joined the forum to say thank you.  With your guys help, especially Openclassterror, I was able to complete my Stoeger M3K.  Before this build I was not into shotguns.  My first firearm was a Mossberg 500 which I promptly gave away.  After that I got big into customizing AR15, 10/22s, handguns etc.  I got a over/under shotgun which I never intended to shoot, I just wanted an over/under for the heck of it.

 I just (almost) completed a 3-year AR15 build.  (I say almost because I’m waiting for my TriggerTech trigger to come in to replace my Giessele SSA trigger.  Then it is done for good.  I said it many times before but this time is for real.)  I figure I might as well do something with my AR15 so I looked at my local shooting range and heard they had a monthly 3-gun competition going on.  I thought PERFECT! Except I just have an over/under which I don’t think would be too helpful.  I sold my over/under and researched shotguns.  I knew nothing about shotguns so I did a little 3-gun shotgun research. To be honestly I didn’t know there was such a thing as a semi-auto shotgun other than the Siaga 12 until I started my research.  The Stoeger M3000 looked like it would fit my needs.  At this point I didn’t know the difference between the M3000 vs the M3K.  After reading every single page on this thread I figured I get the M3000 from MOA Precision.

 MOA Precision was actually swamped at the moment so I figured I could just do the work myself.  I really had no idea what I was doing but I had a bench vise, a Dremel, this thread and YouTube.  Sounded like a winning combination.  I was lucky to find an M3K for $550 + free shipping.  So I bought parts from MOA Precision, Taran Tactical, and various parts from Midway and Amazon then I waited.

 The day I got the shotgun I got to work.  Following YouTube and this thread I replaced all the trigger components and the lifter.  I then chopped and fitted the stock a bit (following YouTube) then installed/fitted a Limbsaver.  I don’t have a belt sander so I trimmed it the best I could.  Its rubber so I really don’t care about the aesthetics too much.  The stock was too slick so I need to do something about that.  I heard about stippling and saw some horrendous jobs.  So I bought a woodburner kit and once again followed YouTube, for the most part.  I filled down one of the brass heads and to make it simple I just went in a spiral design then wiped it down with wood sandpaper.  It might not be the greatest but I love the way it feels.  Looks very aggressive, but feels perfect.

 At this point I was about take my trusty Dremel and start this thing called a “Port Mod.” I saw Jesse Port Mod video and I figured I could try it out with my Dremel.  I told a co-worker my plan and he advised me he had a milling machine.  He didn’t know what a Port Mod was but he was sure it would be easy.  Also told me while he never installed dovetails before he sure he could do it.  He had heart, I couldn’t pass up that offer!  I printed 8x10 photos of Port Mods I found here and off we went.  The following are photos of the end result:

 

 

 

Once I got home I took a file and sandpaper to it to smooth it out.  I aslo did end up going just a little bit lower on the non-port side with my Dremel.  I made an idiot mark when I was using my Dremel to round out the area near where it begins to slope.  Doesn’t look/feel bad so no harm no foul.  I just tested my shotgun out today.  It shot everything.  Slugs, Low recoil slugs, soft birdshot, it was just going like a beast.  Well here is my completed shotgun.

 

 

Mental note, Limbsavers are not easy to smooth out without a belt sander. Or I'm doing it wrong.  Probably latter. 

 

 

Edited October 17, 2016 by TheDrizzle
milling machine, not lathe, and a shotgun is not a rifle!

[Bimmer]

On 10/16/2016 at 2:53 AM, TheDrizzle said:

... I just tested my rifle out today.  It shot everything.  Slugs, Low recoil slugs, soft birdshot, it was just going like a beast.  Well here is my completed rifle.

Mental note, Limbsavers are not easy to smooth out without a belt sander. Or I'm doing it wrong.  Probably latter.

It's not a rifle, it's a shotgun.

And the milling is beautiful — the nicest job I've seen here. 

But the stock looks like you let your dog chew on it...

[TheDrizzle]

13 minutes ago, Bimmer said:

It's not a rifle, it's a shotgun.

And the milling is beautiful — the nicest job I've seen here. 

But the stock looks like you let your dog chew on it...

Ha! How right you are about the non-rifle.  Corrected, thanks!  I also agree with you about the Limbsaver.  I need to find a way to properly sand it down without buying a beltsander.   I had to hot knife the ends of the Limbsaver since it was sticking out too much.  I'll fix it when i get the chance.

[spaok]

Hi Guys,

I just got a M3000, paid little bit more than I wanted to, but I ordered the 26" one.

I had a question about adding extension tubes and 922(R).

I was reading and watching the videos here http://freedomfightertactical.com/pages/922r-faq

Seems most people here just added extensions to their guns and replace the follower, doesn't this still make it a non-compliant shotgun?

Even the disconnector isn't enough from what that FAQ was saying, I would need to replace 3 things.

I was just wondering how other people were addressing it.

Thanks

EDIT: I found the below link, I guess the M4 has the gas piston which adds the extra part needed to be replaces, I was thinking you had to be below 10 parts, so 12 - 3, but reading the other post its 12 - 2.

 

Edited October 21, 2016 by spaok

[mlmiller1]

Where can you buy a lifter?  crums will mod one but I would like to buy one to have modded instead of sending out my parts....

[usmc1094]

http://www.midwestgunworks.com/page/mgwi/prod/stoeger-m3500-parts/33543

[TheDrizzle]

2 hours ago, usmc1094 said:

http://www.midwestgunworks.com/page/mgwi/prod/stoeger-m3500-parts/33543

at that price you can just get a TTI lifter already modified

http://moaprecision.com/cgi-bin/imcart/display.cgi?item_id=tti-lifter&cat=7&page=1&search=&since=0&status=&title=

 

[usmc1094]

2 hours ago, TheDrizzle said:

at that price you can just get a TTI lifter already modified

http://moaprecision.com/cgi-bin/imcart/display.cgi?item_id=tti-lifter&cat=7&page=1&search=&since=0&status=&title=

 

I wanted to use the moa page but my work computer wouldnt let me see it. 

[Vlad]

Has anyone shimmed their hammer and how?

It seems to me that to me like there is a lot of slop between the hammer pin and the hammer, allowing for quite a bit of left to right play. Recently I've been getting some failure to fire or weak strikes and I can see some pinning on the sides of the hammer so I'm suspecting that it occasionally does not hit the firing pin straight on.

 

I've been thinking to either find some thin washer/shims to apply to either side of the hammer or maybe even somehow sleeve the pin for a better fit. I think the shims would be the better idea so I was wondering if someone has already figured out an appropriate set of commercially available shims before I go hunting for some or try to make my own.

[alombardo15]

Hey guys,

So I got a bit to aggressive and slightly grinded into my mag tube when opening up the loading port of my M3K. I stopped right when i saw it and finished up the port job but there is a tinny gap on the end of the port.

Is it okay to just fill up the gap with some JB Weld or are there other alternatives. I wanted to address this before I polished up the port. Any input would be helpful.

Thanks a bunch!

[bowhazard]

On 10/28/2016 at 8:53 AM, mlmiller1 said:

Where can you buy a lifter?  crums will mod one but I would like to buy one to have modded instead of sending out my parts....

I bought a $16 dollar M3500 lifter from Numrich and cut it back a bit. Works great in my M3000. Not sure why Midwest has them @ $75 bucks.

Edited October 31, 2016 by bowhazard

[mlmiller1]

18 hours ago, bowhazard said:

I bought a $16 dollar M3500 lifter from Numrich and cut it back a bit. Works great in my M3000. Not sure why Midwest has them @ $75 bucks.

Thanks for all the replies! 

[TacticalG34Tupperware]

On 9/7/2016 at 10:41 AM, koreytm said:

It's all in this thread starting around page 100.  I'm no expert (I just bought my M3K last week and still haven't even had a chance to fire it) but here's what I learned by reading the last 23 pages of this thread:

 

Polishing the mag tube of the M3000 is pretty simple, especially since I have access to a lathe, so I didn't need to pay extra for a gun that already had that.

 

 

 

 

How did you get the mag tube off the receiver?

[bigbob21]

How did you get the mag tube off the receiver?

I don't think your "supposed" to...
When I did mine, I had dust everywhere inside the receiver...
I've seen some vids where people tape it up tight.



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[ohsevenflhx]

On 10/30/2016 at 6:21 PM, Vlad said:

Has anyone shimmed their hammer and how?

It seems to me that to me like there is a lot of slop between the hammer pin and the hammer, allowing for quite a bit of left to right play. Recently I've been getting some failure to fire or weak strikes and I can see some pinning on the sides of the hammer so I'm suspecting that it occasionally does not hit the firing pin straight on.

 

I've been thinking to either find some thin washer/shims to apply to either side of the hammer or maybe even somehow sleeve the pin for a better fit. I think the shims would be the better idea so I was wondering if someone has already figured out an appropriate set of commercially available shims before I go hunting for some or try to make my own.

If you are looking for shims, try this place. I use their shims for my revolvers. 

http://www.triggershims.com/cylinder_shims.html

 

[Vlad]

Thanx, I've ended up doing lots of measuring and shopping around for the "right" size brass arbor shims.  I think I now have it figured out, but I'll go out this weekend to see if it made a difference, positive or otherwise

[koreytm]

On 11/4/2016 at 4:12 PM, TacticalG34Tupperware said:

How did you get the mag tube off the receiver?

Just a little heat on the receiver and the lock tight will let go.  Then you just thread it out.

[TacticalG34Tupperware]

1 hour ago, koreytm said:

Just a little heat on the receiver and the lock tight will let go.  Then you just thread it out.

Are you talking heatgun heat or blowdryer heat? haha

 

[TheDrizzle]

On 11/11/2016 at 0:08 PM, TacticalG34Tupperware said:

Are you talking heatgun heat or blowdryer heat? haha

 

You know for every other weapon i use a blow dryer to get rid of red loctite.  This does not feel like red loctite.  It has to be green.  I had to get a heat gun for about five minutes until it started to break free...with a strap wrench.

[okiebuysell]

New to the site. I am hoping that someone with M3000 experience might have a bid of adivice for me. My M3000 shoots about 6 In. low and 6 in. to the right. How do you use the shims that came with the gun to correct the problem.

[TacticalG34Tupperware]

58 minutes ago, TheDrizzle said:

You know for every other weapon i use a blow dryer to get rid of red loctite.  This does not feel like red loctite.  It has to be green.  I had to get a heat gun for about five minutes until it started to break free...with a strap wrench.

I used a heat gun and my man hands lol, Stoeger says its blue locktite which is what I reapplied after I polished it.

[TheDrizzle]

8 minutes ago, TacticalG34Tupperware said:

I used a heat gun and my man hands lol, Stoeger says its blue locktite which is what I reapplied after I polished it.

wow.  I should have used a my IR temp reader to see how hot it got.  I can't see how it was blue.  I used one dot of red after i was done.  The M3K was already polished, I just didn't want the tube one when i was working with the dremel.