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Dillon Powder Measure Tips and Tricks

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benos   

By linking older topics (like how to tune your Powder Measure to work with Varget powder) on this topic in this thread - it would make a great resource.

Here's one that I've probably typed somewhere in the past...

Always make the final adjustment on the powder measure by turning the nut clockwise.

(Takes out all the slop in the threads in the same direction every time.)

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SD1   

NEW powder measures, break down and wipe all metal parts with 100% alcohol

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orion251   

NEW powder measures, break down and wipe all metal parts with 100% alcohol

I found that it helped to run a full hopper of powder through the PM manually as well.

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Paull12   

I have a brand new Dillon 650 and I can't seem to get the powder measure to throw a consistent charge. It will give me what I want for a number of loaded rounds but then will vary by as much as .4grain for a subsequent charge. I looked at how it is set up, adjusted all I could adjust, but it still makes me measure almost every charge to insure I am getting the powder charge I want. I am using TiteGroup and loading for .40 S&W and 9MM. Any hints on adjusting the powder measure to make it consistently throw the right charge would be greatly appreciated.

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benos   

I have a brand new Dillon 650 and I can't seem to get the powder measure to throw a consistent charge. It will give me what I want for a number of loaded rounds but then will vary by as much as .4grain for a subsequent charge. I looked at how it is set up, adjusted all I could adjust, but it still makes me measure almost every charge to insure I am getting the powder charge I want. I am using TiteGroup and loading for .40 S&W and 9MM. Any hints on adjusting the powder measure to make it consistently throw the right charge would be greatly appreciated.

I know we emailed on this.. But for the sake of others...

Problem: The Powder Measure throws inconsistent charges.

Solution (typically): With the Shellplate empty, push the handle forward, like you would if you were seating a primer. Hold it there and look at the blue wing nut and spring at the bottom end of the Failsafe Rod - the nut should be adjusted so that the spring is at least half way compressed. (If it's not, the powder bar may not retract fully each time.)

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Number99   

Copied from another thread.

Here is a brief list of mods I have made to mine. As always your mileage may vary but I feel like I can drop flake and long stick type powders pretty good. Everybody may know all these but just in case.

1. Polish inside of hopper base

2 Scotch brite powder bars and inside of measure where they slide. I do this anytime they have been sitting for a day or two before use they just seem to get scuzzy.

3. Scotch brite on a drill bit and polish inside a powder funnels. On 223 I use a tapered reamer and tried to taper the funnel transition as much as possible. And polished up after of course.

4. Ground off part of the fail safe return rod linkage thingy. The little bump thing that stops the measure from coming down till the rod pulls it out of the way.

5. Run a rubber band to pull the bar back like the old style springs. This seems to help a lot. The bar follows the measure down smooth as butter. If it starts jerking down you can bet it will be varying charges.

6. On flake powder (Unique) I run a fish tank air pump hose clamped to the side of the hopper bout as low as I can get it. You can't start and stop loading with it running. If its on you better be cranking. Big charge waiting on you if you leave it on while taking a break.

And I just installed the micrometer adjusters and they are very nice. Way better system.

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it may not be that much off... think about this your scale resolution is .1. so say you are really throwing 4.77 you won't see it until the 10th threashold is broken.

your next throw may be 4.81, you can't see that either.

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Paull12   

Copied from another thread.

Here is a brief list of mods I have made to mine. As always your mileage may vary but I feel like I can drop flake and long stick type powders pretty good. Everybody may know all these but just in case.

1. Polish inside of hopper base

2 Scotch brite powder bars and inside of measure where they slide. I do this anytime they have been sitting for a day or two before use they just seem to get scuzzy.

3. Scotch brite on a drill bit and polish inside a powder funnels. On 223 I use a tapered reamer and tried to taper the funnel transition as much as possible. And polished up after of course.

4. Ground off part of the fail safe return rod linkage thingy. The little bump thing that stops the measure from coming down till the rod pulls it out of the way.

5. Run a rubber band to pull the bar back like the old style springs. This seems to help a lot. The bar follows the measure down smooth as butter. If it starts jerking down you can bet it will be varying charges.

6. On flake powder (Unique) I run a fish tank air pump hose clamped to the side of the hopper bout as low as I can get it. You can't start and stop loading with it running. If its on you better be cranking. Big charge waiting on you if you leave it on while taking a break.

And I just installed the micrometer adjusters and they are very nice. Way better system.

Where did you find the micrometer adjusters. I know I saw it once on this site but can't seem to find it again?

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SAFuchs   

I'm not getting the fishtank hose? I rub some grafite powder on the sides of the powder bar, just like the primer bar, very slick!

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cecil   

I clean my powder measure for my 650 with alcohol about every 4th time I use it...... now my measurer is dead on..

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Guest   
Guest

I'm not getting the fishtank hose? I rub some grafite powder on the sides of the powder bar, just like the primer bar, very slick!

I believe he has the fish tank air pump clamped to the powder hopper, and is using hose clamps for that. The air pump induces vibration to the hopper and powder to equalize the bulk density of the powder and increase the consistency of the thrown charges. This concept is common for devices that transfer or measure bulk commodities like candy or dish washing powder. Just watch a few episodes of "how it is made" and you will probably see something like it.

I've heard of guys rubber banding battery powered self-pleasuring devices (probably "borrowed" from their significant others) to the hopper for the same reason. ;)

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I've heard of guys rubber banding battery powered self-pleasuring devices (probably "borrowed" from their significant others) to the hopper for the same reason. ;)

This. I'm doing this. Just to make house guests ask questions... :goof:

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Paull12   

I have a brand new Dillon 650 and I can't seem to get the powder measure to throw a consistent charge. It will give me what I want for a number of loaded rounds but then will vary by as much as .4grain for a subsequent charge. I looked at how it is set up, adjusted all I could adjust, but it still makes me measure almost every charge to insure I am getting the powder charge I want. I am using TiteGroup and loading for .40 S&W and 9MM. Any hints on adjusting the powder measure to make it consistently throw the right charge would be greatly appreciated.

I know we emailed on this.. But for the sake of others...

Problem: The Powder Measure throws inconsistent charges. Solution (typically): With the Shellplate empty, push the handle forward, like you would if you were seating a primer. Hold it there and look at the blue wing nut and spring at the bottom end of the Failsafe Rod - the nut should be adjusted so that the spring is at least half way compressed. (If it's not, the powder bar may not retract fully each time.)

Brian,

Sorry it took so long to get back to you on this. You were exactly right!! I followed your instructions and both powder measures throw the right charge consistently. Thanks for the tip.

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I clean my powder measure for my 650 with alcohol about every 4th time I use it...... now my measurer is dead on..

NEW powder measures, break down and wipe all metal parts with 100% alcohol

What is the procedure for removing the powder bar?

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Ken_Bird   

I've heard of guys rubber banding battery powered self-pleasuring devices (probably "borrowed" from their significant others) to the hopper for the same reason. ;)

This. I'm doing this. Just to make house guests ask questions... :goof:

I think one of those small egg deals would work great, they vibrate and are easy to attach to the hopper. They also give you a cord that goes to the start and stop button. I think I may try this. Hummm, now where did I leave this the last time I used it. :devil:

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cautery   

Is it normal to get a change of .1 every other throw 1st powder throw 4.7 then 4.8 then back to 4.7? Is this normal never goes any more then a .1

Sounds like scale resolution here... Hopefully, I'll be able to afford one of the super accurate ones that measures down to the hundredths of a grain someday, but until then, I use a tip that Brian Enos gave me almost 10 years ago now... (with additional OCD additions to satisfy me...) ;)

When you are setting your powder charge and think you are done... Do this...

1) Throw AT LEAST 5 charges in a row and dump 'em back in the top.

2) Calibrate your scale if you have that option. (Only use an electric scale after letting it warm up for 10-15 minutes, then calibrate before use.

2) Using the same case each time, throw a charge and dump it in your powder pan... repeat 9 more times for a total of ten (10) charges.

3) On th e10th charge, be sure to tap the case upside down in the powder pan to make sure you get every grain of powder dropped.

4) Weight the 10 charges and divide the result by 10. (e.g. 10 charges weigh 42.9... 42.9/10 = 4.29 gr average per charge. With Titegroup and my well-maintained and slightly modified measures/presses, I regularly get my average charge to within 0.01-0.02 grains.

PS - I'm starting to load rifle now, so I took a brand new powder measure I had on the shelf and am analyzing it completely with an eye toward making it meter as accurately and smoothly as possible... even with Varget... I'm using the common tips as well as some new ones... I'll post an article when I'm done.

Edited by cautery

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cautery   

I clean my powder measure for my 650 with alcohol about every 4th time I use it...... now my measurer is dead on..

NEW powder measures, break down and wipe all metal parts with 100% alcohol

What is the procedure for removing the powder bar?

Empty your powder measure...

Loosen the Bellcrank Screw (13904) using an allen wrench with a box/open wrench as a backup on the 10-32 Nylon Lock Nut (16340). Don't take it off... just loosen it enough to lift the Bellcrank Cube (13871) out of the slot on the powder bar. CAREFUL NOT to lose the cube...

Slide powder bar out of powder measure.

Re-installation is the reverse procedure... Don't over tighten the Bellcrank Screw... snug it down and then back it off just enough until the bellcrank will move freely.

Edited by cautery

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What is the procedure for removing the powder bar?
Empty your powder measure...

Loosen the Bellcrank Screw (13904) using an allen wrench with a box/open wrench as a backup on the 10-32 Nylon Lock Nut (16340). Don't take it off... just loosen it enough to lift the Bellcrank Cube (13871) out of the slot on the powder bar. CAREFUL NOT to lose the cube...

Slide powder bar out of powder measure.

Re-installation is the reverse procedure... Don't over tighten the Bellcrank Screw... snug it down and then back it off just enough until the bellcrank will move freely.

Thank you! Including the part numbers helped. I have considered purchasing a Micrometer Power Bar and wasn't sure how to install it.

What function do the Powder Measure Plug (13921) and Powder Bar Post (13951) perform? I have seen some people put rubber bands around them to help the powder bar close completely. Can that be the only reason they exist?

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cautery   

Thank you! Including the part numbers helped. I have considered purchasing a Micrometer Power Bar and wasn't sure how to install it.

What function do the Powder Measure Plug (13921) and Powder Bar Post (13951) perform? I have seen some people put rubber bands around them to help the powder bar close completely. Can that be the only reason they exist?

1) WARNING: IF you use a micrometer-enhanced powder bar one time, you may well become addicted. Once so, you will never want to be without one on any Powder Measure you own/use. :bow: (Just kidding, they are great; get them when you can.)

2) If you are the least bit apprehensive about installing the micrometer on your own, then consider letting Uniquetek do it for you. It is not all that difficult, but it IS irreversible. (Read: If you screw it up, oh well! Guess I need a new bar and micrometer. $$)

3) The powder bar plug (13921) keeps the spacer (13644), and more importantly the spacer's powder cavity, stationary in Powder Measure, Part (22273) and is used under both the small powder bar (20062) and extra small powder bar (20780).

4) The Powder Bar Post, Large (13893) or Powder Bar Post, Small (13951) (with spring-retention nipple) has TWO purposes:

a. The Powder Bar Post is the locating/retention device for the powder charge "adjusting bolt". It has a split base that straddles a minor diameter in the bolt which keeps the bolt static, while making the charge cavity insert to move in the charge cavity when the bolt is turned (clockwise increases charge weight, counter-clockwise reduces charge weight).

b. The Powder Bar, Post (with nipple) also acts to locate/retain the spring-assist retun spring on the older powder measures, AND the newer style powder measures that have been modified. Personally, I would not have a powder measure without 1 or 2 return springs (# of springs is determined by force necessary to insure sure and SMOOTH return)

NOTE: Some manuals (mine, for instance) show two different part numbers for Powder Bar Posts and both are illustrated WITHOUT nipple on top used to retain the (IMHO, absolutely necessary/desired) return-assist spring(s). However, I have never purchased a powder measure that didn't have the nippled powder bar post.

Edited by cautery

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Thanks for another great explanation. I haven't had a reason to take the powder measure system apart yet, so I wasn't familiar with its parts. Any idea where I could get a couple of the springs used in the earlier powder bar systems?

My thoughts about a micrometer powder bar are twofold... It should be easier to return to previous powder amounts... and it should be easier to dispense more accurate powder amounts due to the finer threads on the micrometer. That should help return to previously chrono'd powder amounts in the future.

UniqueTek also pre-installs their micrometer in an Arredondo Powder Drop Slide. Not sure if the Arredondo slide would benefit me a lot, but it would provide a second, complete powder bar assembly that I could just swap out... and would also leave my old powder bar slide intact and ready to use if needed.

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