dhenry132 Posted June 9, 2012 Share Posted June 9, 2012 Been thinking about necking down my 50BMG to 17 cal and calling it a fragmenting wizzer..................... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
literAcola Posted June 9, 2012 Share Posted June 9, 2012 (edited) If your chop saw blade is sharp, it should make a clean enough cut that won't harm the trimming blade on the Dillon trimmer. That's how I form Blackout brass. You'll be fine going from the chop saw right to the trimmer. Thanks good to know. WHat kind of blade are you using? The one I bought does not cut very clean. Looks like i need to change blades to a tungsten kind Edited June 9, 2012 by literAcola Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gsiintl Posted May 6, 2014 Share Posted May 6, 2014 If you want to see how easy converting 223/5.56 brass into 300 blackout is watch this video. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XxWoodsHunterxX Posted May 7, 2014 Share Posted May 7, 2014 I am contemplating buying the Dillon trimmer for .223 and 300 Blackout. Brian advises me that Dillon doesn't make a trim die for the 300 Blackout. Does any other company make a trim die for 300 Blackout? Thanks Whidden gun works http://www.whiddengunworks.net/300blkproducts.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gsiintl Posted May 8, 2014 Share Posted May 8, 2014 Go check out the GSI 300 blackout trim dies. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XxWoodsHunterxX Posted May 9, 2014 Share Posted May 9, 2014 Go check out the GSI 300 blackout trim dies. I seen those I'm trying to see if I can get that toolhead alone with out the trim dies. Man that is where it's at. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gsiintl Posted May 9, 2014 Share Posted May 9, 2014 We can sell you just a tool head I just haven't had time to put it on the website. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XxWoodsHunterxX Posted May 9, 2014 Share Posted May 9, 2014 (edited) What's the price on that. And while your here. So with that rough die are you changing out dies in the tool head from rough to finish and do the locking nuts secure to die to eliminate adjustments each time of the die itself. Edited May 9, 2014 by XxWoodsHunterxX Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gsiintl Posted May 9, 2014 Share Posted May 9, 2014 What's the price on that. And while your here. So with that rough die are you changing out dies in the tool head from rough to finish and do the locking nuts secure to die to eliminate adjustments each time of the die itself. The tool head sells for 49.99. You would have to change dies from roughing to finishing unless you have two tool heads. That would allow you to leave the dies set where you want them. Otherwise you set your roughing die and pre-trim all your brass. Next step is to install the finish die and set the case neck length and the over all case length with a case gage. I hope this helps answer your questions. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XxWoodsHunterxX Posted May 9, 2014 Share Posted May 9, 2014 (edited) What's the price on that. And while your here. So with that rough die are you changing out dies in the tool head from rough to finish and do the locking nuts secure to die to eliminate adjustments each time of the die itself. The tool head sells for 49.99. You would have to change dies from roughing to finishing unless you have two tool heads. That would allow you to leave the dies set where you want them. Otherwise you set your roughing die and pre-trim all your brass. Next step is to install the finish die and set the case neck length and the over all case length with a case gage. I hope this helps answer your questions. Does the kit for $149 come with one toolhead or two. And doi just call to place the order for tool head only? Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD Edited May 9, 2014 by XxWoodsHunterxX Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gsiintl Posted May 9, 2014 Share Posted May 9, 2014 The kit comes with one tool head. I will add the single tool head to our website by the end of the day so you can order it online if you like. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XxWoodsHunterxX Posted May 10, 2014 Share Posted May 10, 2014 Let m know when you get it up. I might just buy a kit and an extra head. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gigs Posted May 12, 2014 Share Posted May 12, 2014 The other issue no one has mentioned about trying to take it all in one cut is that the brass will tend to grab and spin. As well, tends to leave you with way too much neck tension, necessitating another run through a sizing die of some sort. GSI's full kit with the rough trim die addresses these problems, but you'll still be putting a lot of stress on a RT1200 if you use it for the whole cut. Dillon, there couldn't be that many 1200s left, why don't you all start selling the 1500 to the public, just charge more for it until the 1200s sell out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gsiintl Posted May 13, 2014 Share Posted May 13, 2014 Let m know when you get it up. I might just buy a kit and an extra head. Sorry I didn't get the toolhead's added to the website the other day for you. Toolheads are now available on our website. http://www.gsiinternational.com/Trim-Dies-_8_4243.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XxWoodsHunterxX Posted May 13, 2014 Share Posted May 13, 2014 I forgot to ask you another question. Will these tool heads work with dillons trim dies or just yours as far as sucking debris. Doesn't look like it would be but thought id ask. I'll go ahead and place the order thanks again Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rjacobs Posted May 13, 2014 Share Posted May 13, 2014 The other issue no one has mentioned about trying to take it all in one cut is that the brass will tend to grab and spin. As well, tends to leave you with way too much neck tension, necessitating another run through a sizing die of some sort. Ive said it before that a lot of the spinning is a factor of feed rate. I dont have that issue with my 1050 running around 1k rounds an hour, no spinning. When I ran my 550b, I got case spin if I was gentle and tried to slowly feed. And case spin isnt a huge deal, it just wears out your form/trim die 10x faster and you lose headspace. So its a delicate balance of trying to feed fast enough to not get case spin, but feed slow enough to get more motor life. With the RT1500 you wont be able to kill it with a fast feed rate. At 1200 RPH I was not getting clean cuts(which Dillon says they are working on a new carbide cutting insert to help with this), but slowing to 1000 RPH I get clean cuts 80% and the 20% that arent clean, clean up in the stainless tumbler. The case of to much neck tension is die dependent and depends on what kind of reamer they use. If they use a reamer designed for a full length trim die with an expander ball, you will have excess neck tension regardless of case spin or no case spin because you have no expander ball to set neck tension. If they have a reamer designed for the die being a trim die i.e. they know there will be no expander ball, it doesnt become a problem. I dont know which type GSI uses(I would be interested to know). I use Whidden dies and they use a reamer specifically for the form/trim so it shouldnt have excess neck tension. Dillon's regular trim dies suffer the excess neck tension since they cut them with the same reamer as a full length trim die so you have to run them through something to set neck tension(I use 21st century mandrels). With my 300BLK setup I STILL run every piece through a full length Forster die just to really crisp things up and get that expander ball through it so I know everything is set right. On the 1050 its setup just after the trimmer so its not any extra work to run it through to know the piece of brass is 100% going to run. With the 650 you could also do this. The 550b is to tight to run a full length die after the trimmer although you might be able to get a 21st century shooting mandrel die after it since its pretty low profile. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XxWoodsHunterxX Posted May 13, 2014 Share Posted May 13, 2014 The other issue no one has mentioned about trying to take it all in one cut is that the brass will tend to grab and spin. As well, tends to leave you with way too much neck tension, necessitating another run through a sizing die of some sort. Ive said it before that a lot of the spinning is a factor of feed rate. I dont have that issue with my 1050 running around 1k rounds an hour, no spinning. When I ran my 550b, I got case spin if I was gentle and tried to slowly feed. And case spin isnt a huge deal, it just wears out your form/trim die 10x faster and you lose headspace. So its a delicate balance of trying to feed fast enough to not get case spin, but feed slow enough to get more motor life. With the RT1500 you wont be able to kill it with a fast feed rate. At 1200 RPH I was not getting clean cuts(which Dillon says they are working on a new carbide cutting insert to help with this), but slowing to 1000 RPH I get clean cuts 80% and the 20% that arent clean, clean up in the stainless tumbler. The case of to much neck tension is die dependent and depends on what kind of reamer they use. If they use a reamer designed for a full length trim die with an expander ball, you will have excess neck tension regardless of case spin or no case spin because you have no expander ball to set neck tension. If they have a reamer designed for the die being a trim die i.e. they know there will be no expander ball, it doesnt become a problem. I dont know which type GSI uses(I would be interested to know). I use Whidden dies and they use a reamer specifically for the form/trim so it shouldnt have excess neck tension. Dillon's regular trim dies suffer the excess neck tension since they cut them with the same reamer as a full length trim die so you have to run them through something to set neck tension(I use 21st century mandrels). With my 300BLK setup I STILL run every piece through a full length Forster die just to really crisp things up and get that expander ball through it so I know everything is set right. On the 1050 its setup just after the trimmer so its not any extra work to run it through to know the piece of brass is 100% going to run. With the 650 you could also do this. The 550b is to tight to run a full length die after the trimmer although you might be able to get a 21st century shooting mandrel die after it since its pretty low profile. So you run a FL sizer after forming and trimming? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rjacobs Posted May 13, 2014 Share Posted May 13, 2014 So you run a FL sizer after forming and trimming? yes. Always have no matter what machine I was running and I have always run Whidden form/trim dies. Ive also never had a single reported issue with my formed brass through 50k+ pieces now. When I was converting on my 550b I could run the size die in station 4. I would run universal de-prime in station 1, form/trim in station 2, full length size in 4. I was running a Whidden cut down tool head which prevents you from running the Dillon blue vacuum collar, I used a Dremel modified shop vac crevice tool LOL. I dont think you could do this with the GSI tool head on a 550b. On a 650 you could run universal de-prime in 1, trim/form in 3, and full length die in 5. On my 1050 I run: universal de-prime, swage, empty, empty, form/trim, empty, Forster full length die. I dont check my brass in between the form/trim and Forster full length die to see if the Forster full length die is really doing anything dramatic(I doubt it is), but I figure it takes no more effort to do on my machine since its already running, takes any of the thought of "could I have done anything else" out of my head, and ensures the brass is completely in spec. Im not saying my way is the end all be all or the only way to run, but my results speak for themselves and I have a ton of guys running my brass. Its just one of those steps that I feel is worth it and if you can fit the die on the tool head, its $35 which is nothing in the grand scheme. Like I said though, on these GSI tool heads, at least for the 550B I dont know if you can fit it on or not in station 4. If you cant a good added step might be a neck expanding mandrel from 21st Century Shooting to set neck tension if you think yours is tight. I think they are $35 with everything(I run these on .223 and .308 prep tool heads). This: and the proper mandrel: http://www.21stcenturyshooting.com/Expander_Mandrel.php I run the titanium nitride coated ones, but I run a lot of brass on my prep tool heads, probably more in a day than most guys would run in a year. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gsiintl Posted December 2, 2014 Share Posted December 2, 2014 Free Shipping this week on our website. http://www.gsiinternational.com/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Triggerf16 Posted December 3, 2014 Share Posted December 3, 2014 (edited) Does the GSI toolhead for the 650 (with the vacuum port) only work for the 300 blk trim die, or will it work for .223 and .308 as well? I reload a lot of calibers, and need to trim .223, .308. With the possibility of 300 blk down the road. I'm planning on an RT1500 trimmer, but I'm not sure about the rest, trimmer tool-heads, GSI dies, Dillon trim dies, etc. Edited December 3, 2014 by Triggerf16 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RDA Posted December 3, 2014 Share Posted December 3, 2014 Does the GSI toolhead for the 650 (with the vacuum port) only work for the 300 blk trim die, or will it work for .223 and .308 as well? I reload a lot of calibers, and need to trim .223, .308. With the possibility of 300 blk down the road. I'm planning on an RT1500 trimmer, but I'm not sure about the rest, trimmer tool-heads, GSI dies, Dillon trim dies, etc. A 300 BLK case is short, much shorter than a .223 or .308 case so that is why the GSI toolhead for the 300 BLK is designed with the integrated port. A standard tool head works fine for .223 and .308. The RT1500 will trim all the various cases with the proper die. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djeffers Posted December 6, 2014 Share Posted December 6, 2014 Been thinking about necking down my 50BMG to 17 cal and calling it a fragmenting wizzer..................... Post pics or a vid when ya do! Haha Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dustbuster1 Posted February 10, 2015 Share Posted February 10, 2015 oRGASMIC AND OVERWHELMING for me and my lil harbor freight chop saw! all good Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmorris Posted February 10, 2015 Share Posted February 10, 2015 Never thought the HF chop saw would do the trick but their drill press does with a ”kit". Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djeffers Posted February 10, 2015 Share Posted February 10, 2015 Ok, I will play. How much is the "kit"? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now