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Steamman

Compensator Cleaning

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Does anyone have an easy way to clean a comp ? Do those ultrasonic cleaners work ? Any ideas will help thanks.

Edited by Steamman

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Does anyone have an easy way to clean a comp ? Do those ultrasonic cleaners work ? Any ideas will help thanks.

I have tried every chemical in my garage, trying to find the magic solution to desolve the plaque that builds up. No luck! It really comes down to picking it out, with a dental pick or something that can get under the ledge of the carbon. I feel like a dentist, when I clean my comp. you can try taking some solvent and letting it soak for a while than start picking, but there is no magic solvent, that will desolve the stuff. When soaking be careful of getting the solvent where the barrel meets the compensator, if your compensator is threaded in, than the solvent could deteriate the loctite, and then you will have a loose compensator, once you fire a few rounds.

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There are lots of threads on this subject. My solution is to soak the comp in a 50-50 mix of hydrogen peroxide and vinegar for about 45 minutes. This dissolves the lead and it falls out into the bottom of the container. Then rinse well with hot water to end any more chemical reaction. Oil the comp. Spray ports of comp with Dillon case lube before shooting and about every 100 rounds to prevent future buildup of carbon and lead.

Edited by Toolguy

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Hi there,

This post should probably be in the Open Pistol forum, like these:

http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=106910&view=findpost&p=1215938

http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=11500&view=findpost&p=132577

The search function is your friend ;)

Later,

Chuck

ETA: Oh yeah, welcome to the forum!

Edited by ChuckS

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I've had pretty good luck with carb cleaner. Not the spray but the kind you soak carb parts in. I drop I'm my comp and let it soak overnight. Didn't disolve stuff but it loosens it up quite a bit. Carbon buildup comes off very easy after that

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I pretty much do exactly like Toolguy does. That crud is some stubborn stuff but this method seems to work OK without messing up the finish.

Keith

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Hello: The comp on my Bully barrel is aluminum so I am not sure about using a caustic to remove the lead buildup. G-Man Bart told me to use a drill bit to clean out the comp since that is what he does. I have no buildup yet so I have not had to do this. Thanks, Eric

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Hello: The comp on my Bully barrel is aluminum so I am not sure about using a caustic to remove the lead buildup. G-Man Bart told me to use a drill bit to clean out the comp since that is what he does. I have no buildup yet so I have not had to do this. Thanks, Eric

I used the parasitic acid on my aluminum bianchi comp. It didnt really eat the metal, but it did stain it like it was about to eat through it.

I use a dremel with a fine conical/round stone to get the hard carbon build up off. It wont damage the aluminum as long as you are gentle and pay attention.

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A small engine turning brush on the end of a dremel and some solvent works well. No worries about removing aluminum. Anything that scratches the metal just gives the carbon more of a surface to stick too.

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A small engine turning brush on the end of a dremel and some solvent works well. No worries about removing aluminum. Anything that scratches the metal just gives the carbon more of a surface to stick too.

Yep, and now, after using Dillon Case lube every 100rds, my comp is carbon free after over 1k rounds.

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A small engine turning brush on the end of a dremel and some solvent works well. No worries about removing aluminum. Anything that scratches the metal just gives the carbon more of a surface to stick too.

Yep, and now, after using Dillon Case lube every 100rds, my comp is carbon free after over 1k rounds.

I never thought of that, so you are using the case lube as a preventative maintenance once you have cleaned the comp. I have heard of spraying WD 40, but once you fire that first round your cmore just gets oil all over it, but it keeps it from cruding up so easily. I wonder if Hornady One shot would work also.

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A small engine turning brush on the end of a dremel and some solvent works well. No worries about removing aluminum. Anything that scratches the metal just gives the carbon more of a surface to stick too.

Yep, and now, after using Dillon Case lube every 100rds, my comp is carbon free after over 1k rounds.

I never thought of that, so you are using the case lube as a preventative maintenance once you have cleaned the comp. I have heard of spraying WD 40, but once you fire that first round your cmore just gets oil all over it, but it keeps it from cruding up so easily. I wonder if Hornady One shot would work also.

Yes, actually.. once I replaced the old comp, I soaked the new one in oil for 2 days. Then cleaned it out, and sprayed case lube on the comp, let it dry and then repeated a few more times before shooting it. Now, its just routine. Get gun out of case, spray the comp. Shoot a stage, spray the comp. Packing up to go home, spray the comp. No thick hard carbon build up anymore.

This is an AL comp also. The guys I shoot with who have steel ones stay even cleaner and shiny.

I havent thought of Hornady One Shot, I think Dillon is darn close to as good as it gets. The alcohol evaporates (unlike WD40), and the lanolin coats the aluminum and doesnt give the carbon a place to stick to. I get a small amount of splatter on the Aimpoint, but the comp is on the end of a 6 inch barrel, so its probably farther away than a typical open gun with cmore.

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Hornady One Shot isn't as effective as Dillon or one of the others that uses lanolin & alcohol. Frankfort Arsenal & MidSouth Shooter's Supply are a couple that work as good, but the One Shot isn't the same formulation.

DW is right about spraying between stages and just before you go home. Believe it or not, I'm the one who came up with this idea originally. :roflol: I'd seen other shooters use oil in there, but it got blasted out after the first few shots & was only mildly effective. The lanolin in the case lube keeps the fouling soft until you get the time to use cotton swabs & bore cleaner on it, even days later! Final cleaning involves cutting Scotch-Brite into small strips, holding that with a hemostat or needle holder that you can get at gun shows or online. Dip that into your bore cleaner, whatever brand you use, and scrub out the last of the tough stuff that might form in the comp.

For me, using Shooter's Choice Bore Cleaner, it's about a 5 minute operation to get it back to pristine as the day it was made. I know that most things that sound too good to be true are just that, but this stuff WORKS!

Alan~^~

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