How do you adjust the Dillon primer swaging on 1050

[charliez]

Setting up my Super 1050 (that I purchased 2 years ago), has been going in spurts and sputter

I set it up well, ran a case through OK, except for swaging, didn't seem to swage a bit. I tried screwing the top ram rod down a little at a time and saw it hit the pocket and backed up a little.

Then I tried unscrewing the bottom rod (i.e. making the bottom swage rod ride higher), didn't quite catch it and was in a haste (arggghhhh) wouldn't you know it, the thread on the bottom broke due to the force.

How do you set it up?

Thanks!

BTW (have ordered new rods from Dillon, arrives on Monday

Edited November 5, 2010 by charliez

[bdpaz]

How do you set it up?

Have you tried the instructions in the manual? You can download it at: http://www.dillonhelp.com/manuals/english/Super-1050-Manual-May-2007.pdf

I followed the instructions setting mine up but I don't know if it actually works because I have only loaded pistol calibers and haven't had any crimped pockets. It is good for finding small primer .45s

[charliez]

Ah yes, I forgot the additional details (223 Rem, small rifle pocket).

I have the instructions, but thought there was extra magic involved

[pjb45]

There is magic. Mostly black.

For the 223, the swaging will only work with brass of the same head stamp, when it changes you have to readjust the swaging parts. I gave up and purchased the super swage.

I do not swage pistol brass.

I ran my 1050 for 5 years loading 40 and 9 without the swaging parts.

PM me later if you want to talk about it in detail.

[Aircooled6racer]

Hello: I use the swager for 223 on my RL1050. The secret is to cut the different types of 223 brass so it is only a 1/4" tall. That way you can see the thickness of the base of the brass. This also allows you to setup the swager correctly for all the brass you are using. If you can sort by headstamp that is best but the swager can be setup to do all the different brass if you have the sample pieces. I use either my lathe to cut them or a plumbers tube cutter to cut the brass. I also have sample pieces for 9mm,40,45acp etc. Thanks, Eric

[charliez]

Hello: I use the swager for 223 on my RL1050. The secret is to cut the different types of 223 brass so it is only a 1/4" tall. That way you can see the thickness of the base of the brass. This also allows you to setup the swager correctly for all the brass you are using. If you can sort by headstamp that is best but the swager can be setup to do all the different brass if you have the sample pieces. I use either my lathe to cut them or a plumbers tube cutter to cut the brass. I also have sample pieces for 9mm,40,45acp etc. Thanks, Eric

Thank you for the tip! I'm using all Lake City brass, so this should be a simple setup. I have mixed brass in another batch where the tip is useful.

[AWLAZS]

I cut away part of the bottom of the case so I can see how much to adjust the depth the swager.

[dansy]

First thing I did is to take it off my 1050

[charliez]

Dremel - check

Cases - check

Fedex - Tuesday

or

Lathe & stock bar - check

Machining clue - ummm none

or

Find local parts source ...

Tuesday it is

[pjb45]

The problem that Aircooler and I have is that he is a Northeast Heights guy and I am from the North Valley. He is into all this chopping and sorting stuff. Changing this and changing that, experimenting stuff. Us lazy North Valley boys want it to be nice and simple to make more time for drinking cervazas.

Take it off, buy a Super Swage, which you only have to do once and you can do it while curling your elbow. For the non-navy types, that means drinking imported water from Holland in the green bottled.

[noylj]

I have followed the instructions and still don't get it. I know of no one who could section cases for me and I see no reason why that should be required.

What I am doing is waiting until I find a case that needs to be swaged (I assume that having the machine stop when the primer can't be fed will tell me) and adjusting it then.

What I did once was to put my Lee decapping die in station 2 and a Lee FCD (without the crimp guts) in station 3 to just barely resize my .38 Special brass for loading wadcutters for my S&W M52. Worked fine, but then I simply stopped sizing them at all.

[DougCarden]

Here is what I do.

I set up the uppper portion to be tight on the case bottom when the toolhead is down. You will need to do this multiple times to make sure it is tight, but not too tight. You then need to lock it down. You will find the sweet spot.

I then adjust up the swage rod until it is putting pressure on the case, and increase it until I think I am there.

I then use a hand priming tool and prime some brass that I know was crimped. If I encounter any resistance I increase the swage. You can also use your priming system to do this, but the hand tool is much faster.

It is just another way to do it....

Go slow and you will get it figured out...

Good luck,

DougC

[Jerome Poiret]

I know of no one who could section cases for me and I see no reason why that should be required.

I use a dremel with a disc cutter, very easy to section the case.

Once you got one, adjusting takes a few seconds.

[charliez]

I know of no one who could section cases for me and I see no reason why that should be required.

I use a dremel with a disc cutter, very easy to section the case.

Once you got one, adjusting takes a few seconds.

I received the new small swager, and it still wasn't doing it right.

I checked out the backup swager rod (the one that goes inside the case from the top).

I believe I have found a design flaw with this. The backup swager rod does not actually touch the bottom of the case. It can't as the case mouth prevents the cone of the rod to advance. I did force the rod further, but that opened up the case mouth as a side effect (and something that I am disappointed in).

I'll be calling Dillon in the morning to see what's up.

I found this with a section case, thanks for the tip!

[RiggerJJ]

I know of no one who could section cases for me and I see no reason why that should be required.

I use a dremel with a disc cutter, very easy to section the case.

Once you got one, adjusting takes a few seconds.

I received the new small swager, and it still wasn't doing it right.

I checked out the backup swager rod (the one that goes inside the case from the top).

I believe I have found a design flaw with this. The backup swager rod does not actually touch the bottom of the case. It can't as the case mouth prevents the cone of the rod to advance. I did force the rod further, but that opened up the case mouth as a side effect (and something that I am disappointed in).

I'll be calling Dillon in the morning to see what's up.

I found this with a section case, thanks for the tip!

Thats because the back up swage rod is also a case mouth expanding die...

jj

[charliez]

I received the new small swager, and it still wasn't doing it right.

I checked out the backup swager rod (the one that goes inside the case from the top).

I believe I have found a design flaw with this. The backup swager rod does not actually touch the bottom of the case. It can't as the case mouth prevents the cone of the rod to advance. I did force the rod further, but that opened up the case mouth as a side effect (and something that I am disappointed in).

I'll be calling Dillon in the morning to see what's up.

I found this with a section case, thanks for the tip!

Thats because the back up swage rod is also a case mouth expanding die...

jj

You're assuming it is? or is it documented as a feature?

To me it is a design flaw.

[RiggerJJ]

I received the new small swager, and it still wasn't doing it right.

I checked out the backup swager rod (the one that goes inside the case from the top).

I believe I have found a design flaw with this. The backup swager rod does not actually touch the bottom of the case. It can't as the case mouth prevents the cone of the rod to advance. I did force the rod further, but that opened up the case mouth as a side effect (and something that I am disappointed in).

I'll be calling Dillon in the morning to see what's up.

I found this with a section case, thanks for the tip!

Thats because the back up swage rod is also a case mouth expanding die...

jj

You're assuming it is? or is it documented as a feature?

To me it is a design flaw.

Not assuming anything. Call Dillon and ask em.

jj

[DownUnder]

The RL 1050 manual states:

Station 3: This station is totally unique. The case is supported from the inside and slightly expanded (not belled) while simultaneously a swager is driven into the primer pocket to remove any crimp.

[charliez]

The RL 1050 manual states:

Station 3: This station is totally unique. The case is supported from the inside and slightly expanded (not belled) while simultaneously a swager is driven into the primer pocket to remove any crimp.

Yes, I found this in the Super 1050 manual as well

Net, I successfully setup the swager using the cutaway cartridge method.

Pictures helps

I backed the swaging die about 1 inch so I could see whether the backup rod made contact to the base. This also allows me to see the bottom swaging rod making contact to the primer pocket.

Notice that I am using a brass case with a cutaway base to allow inspection of the rods' contacts.

The backup swager rod that is screwed into the swager die from the top.

Notice that the end of the rod tip does not contact the base of the case (hence the instruction of screwing in the rod until it makes contact with the base is misleading). It will contact the case mouth first.

There is a slight increase in diameter right above the case neck that will cause the neck to expand.

The reason this is NOT desirable is that expansion screws up the neck sizing that had already been done by the full resizing die (related to neck / bullet fit, tightness, hold).

I'll be creating a backup swaging rod that does not have the larger diameter to fix this design flaw on my lathe. BTW the Super Swager 600 does the same thing too. This must be by design on Dillon's part. However, I don't agree with it.

Finally as a puzzle to figure out, the primer system wasn't feeding primers, and found that little nub in the middle of the picture was missing. It's actually a bolt that fastens the ratchet system to the press body, and at the same time slides the primer feed system back & forth. An incorrect bolt (i.e. shorter than required) was used. Luckily I had the small parts kit and was able to fix that in a zip. The part number is #12486. This is only identified on page 13, and not on page 27 where the exploded diagram is.

There, that ends my troubleshooting, semi-educational, and setup rant.

Edited November 11, 2010 by charliez

[Faustgeist]

charliez,

Very interesting indeed!

Sry to resurect a very old post, but I was hoping you would update us on your efforts to thin the larger diameter top swqagin rod. Were you able to get the results you had hoped for?

Have you noticed this being much more extreem on swaging, say .380 or 30-06? I am new to the 1050 and am not certain if each caliber of rifle has it's own top/bottom swaging rod.

Thanks!

~Robin in SC

[dan46n2]

I disagree with some of the posts here claiming the SS will solve your problems. Different headstamps or years also require the SS to be readjusted. For most cases you can get by without adjusting it but its obvious when it needs adjustment, sometimes the case wont slip inside the SS and you have to finagle it. This even happens with the same headstamp and year but not often.