deolexrex Posted November 24, 2012 Share Posted November 24, 2012 Can anyone post the serial number ranges for the 1st, 2nd and 3rd gen SPX's? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarkCO Posted November 24, 2012 Share Posted November 24, 2012 Had 3 930JMPros in the 3Gun class yesterday. Anecdotal, but they outran the pumps and the Benellis... The 930s, Versa-Maxs, and SLPs all ran great. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KennyWiz Posted February 20, 2013 Share Posted February 20, 2013 Hi, Looking to remove the top rail from my "former" SPX. What goes into the threaded holes after I remove it? Is the there an OEM screw? Can I get a screw somewhere else? Sent from my iPad using Magic Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GunCat Posted February 20, 2013 Share Posted February 20, 2013 Hi, Looking to remove the top rail from my "former" SPX. What goes into the threaded holes after I remove it? Is the there an OEM screw? Can I get a screw somewhere else? Sent from my iPad using Magic Positive Stop Screws (IIRC the current Mossbergs use the 8-40 screw) http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/small-hardware/metal-screws/plug-screw-kit-prod792.aspx A call to Mossberg might get you as set free of charge Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KennyWiz Posted February 20, 2013 Share Posted February 20, 2013 (edited) Thanks bud! I tried calling Mossberg but sat in hold limbo for 30 minutes. I sent 5 emails and they replied to none. Edited February 20, 2013 by KennyWiz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bagdrag Posted February 20, 2013 Share Posted February 20, 2013 Hi, Looking to remove the top rail from my "former" SPX. What goes into the threaded holes after I remove it? Is the there an OEM screw? Can I get a screw somewhere else? Sent from my iPad using Magic Positive Stop Screws (IIRC the current Mossbergs use the 8-40 screw) http://www.brownells...it-prod792.aspx A call to Mossberg might get you as set free of charge Is there anything the matter with leaving them open? I ask because I haven't bothered to close them after removing my rail. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1bigtuna Posted February 22, 2013 Share Posted February 22, 2013 Anyone have a problem with the extractor pin backing out? Mine did partially this morning and caused it to lock the bolt back. Tapped back in and was fine. I am looking for a solution to fix that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maverickps Posted February 26, 2013 Share Posted February 26, 2013 I'm liking my 24" 930 a lot, but wanted to make loading easier, so I decided to try my hand at some mods. This is the first time I've done this kind of work so I was a more than a little nervous. I still need to do a little clean-up work and will probably do some more tweaking, but here's how it went: How'd I do, and any other suggestions? Did you almost grind out the serial opening the port? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dukduk Posted February 26, 2013 Share Posted February 26, 2013 the serial number isn't by the loading port Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LikesToShoot Posted February 26, 2013 Share Posted February 26, 2013 (edited) Anyone have a problem with the extractor pin backing out? Mine did partially this morning and caused it to lock the bolt back. Tapped back in and was fine. I am looking for a solution to fix that. You're talking about the extractor on the bolt backing out? Can you post a picture? I had a problem with my shell stop pin coming out that caused the bolt to lock back. It was my fault because I released the clip when cleaning the grove with a pick tool and didn't know what I had done. http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=161471 Edited February 26, 2013 by LikesToShoot Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mpom Posted March 7, 2013 Share Posted March 7, 2013 (edited) Thought I'd throw out my effort at slimming the rear end of handguard. Not sure if its useful to have done this since I have no plan (nor money) to go to "twin" loading style, but it sure looks better! Welded lifter courtesy of CRum. Mark Edited March 7, 2013 by mpom Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maverickps Posted March 8, 2013 Share Posted March 8, 2013 I picked up a 930 JM Pro 24" last week and tried it out over the weekend. Ran flawless, no failures as fast as I could pull the trigger. I did have the lifter grab my thumb pretty good when trying to speed load. I figure I will try a few matches before deciding if it needs to go in. I also feel they should have opened up the loading port a bit more like the pictures above this post. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mpom Posted March 9, 2013 Share Posted March 9, 2013 And deprive us of the opportunity to spend time and/or money on improving it? Just kidding. Suspect they already opened up the loading port a bit, going by the bevels in place. Additional work would likely raise the price above what their marketing people told them was their goal. Mark Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AncientShooter Posted March 15, 2013 Share Posted March 15, 2013 I have a new JM Pro with the 22" barrel and want to make it a easy to load as possible. Since I am new to this maybe you guys can help. Easing the port edges makes sense, but why weld the lifter? What does that give me? Also, any tips on how to adjust the setscrew behind the trigger? That totally confuses me since the gap to the trigger's back is so large. Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JesseCJC Posted March 16, 2013 Share Posted March 16, 2013 The fork gets welded on the lifter to keep it from biting you when your thumb doesn't get out in time Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AncientShooter Posted March 16, 2013 Share Posted March 16, 2013 The fork gets welded on the lifter to keep it from biting you when your thumb doesn't get out in time Makes sense..Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mpom Posted March 16, 2013 Share Posted March 16, 2013 WRT the overtravel screw; i screwed it towards back of trigger guard with hammer dropped till it made contact and a couple of turns more. then cocked hammer, held it back while unscrewing slowly, till hammer dropped. unscrewed 1/2 turn additional and called it good. All this after placing a drop of blue (med) lock tite on threads. Hope that makes sense. Mark Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AncientShooter Posted March 18, 2013 Share Posted March 18, 2013 WRT the overtravel screw; i screwed it towards back of trigger guard with hammer dropped till it made contact and a couple of turns more. then cocked hammer, held it back while unscrewing slowly, till hammer dropped. unscrewed 1/2 turn additional and called it good. All this after placing a drop of blue (med) lock tite on threads. Hope that makes sense. Mark Yes it absolutely did make sense and I did about the same thing, with slightly different methodology, today. In fact, my adjustment made a VERY fast cycling gun even faster. I have a Carver race Glock that should be this fast. I shot a box of birdshot with it and the gun is fast enough that I need to transition better just to keep up! Nice to have a gun I can 'grow' into. Liked it before - LOVE it now! Thank you all for the advice - really helpful group on this forum - my respects to you all. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darkvibe Posted March 18, 2013 Share Posted March 18, 2013 Thanks bud! I tried calling Mossberg but sat in hold limbo for 30 minutes. I sent 5 emails and they replied to none. I tried going through Mossberg for the screws. I have one set here that is too long and another set that is too small. They people that take calls there make me angry every time I call. It's beyond me how little they know about their own guns. Just order the 8-40 positive stop screws from Bronwell's and save yourself the trouble. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jamie213 Posted March 18, 2013 Share Posted March 18, 2013 update mine is running like a champ just needed a few flats of ammo threw it, also I had the forcing cone work done way nicer on the shoulder then stock Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AncientShooter Posted March 24, 2013 Share Posted March 24, 2013 Two more dumb questions..... I have my gunsmith welding my liftgate so it won't bite, or as my 'smith said, " I'll turn that fork into a spoon!" But he asked if I wanted a ghost ring rear sight where the four screws fill the holes used for a rail on other 930 models. (I have a JM Pro) I have never shot a ghostring before, and am used to a single bead on a scattergun, but the idea has merit. So, my first question is : Do you guys employ a rear sight to match your fiber optic on the JM Pro, and would a ghost ring be a good choice for 3 gun? Second question: What size shot do you guys use? Do you load up based on a look at the course of fire and mix in bird shot with buckshot/slugs depending on what you see beforehand? Sorry for the newbie questions, but I have only seen 2 matches and this issue actually never occurred to me! Thanks again for your patience. Rick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dukduk Posted March 24, 2013 Share Posted March 24, 2013 (edited) no ghost ring but guncat did install an xs sights rear our club only allows lead shot in 7 shot or smaller (ie 8 or 9) for safety, we shot slugs at closer paper or further static steel. if the stage doesn't tell you what to shoot first (slugs or shot) then it's all strategy as we all know reloading is key for shotgun. well not missing and knocking em down is a bit more important and is what your reloading strategy should be based on. Edited March 24, 2013 by dukduk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AncientShooter Posted March 25, 2013 Share Posted March 25, 2013 no ghost ring but guncat did install an xs sights rear our club only allows lead shot in 7 shot or smaller (ie 8 or 9) for safety, we shot slugs at closer paper or further static steel. if the stage doesn't tell you what to shoot first (slugs or shot) then it's all strategy as we all know reloading is key for shotgun. well not missing and knocking em down is a bit more important and is what your reloading strategy should be based on. Thanks dukduk! The re-load strategy makes a number of things clearer. In one match I watched, all the shooters stopped after 8 stationary clays and loaded 4 slugs for 4 steel poppers, then ran more clays with a final reload of shot. The reloads seemed what that string was all about....now I KNOW it was. The rear sight is something I guess I'll have to think on... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AncientShooter Posted March 29, 2013 Share Posted March 29, 2013 Just got my JM Pro back from my 'smith. He did an admirable job welding the lifter and it does - as many of you said - make a remarkable difference. There is no hesitance when reloading - a smoother entry for the reloads and I don't even consider I might get bitten - HUGE improvement, (Are you listening Mossberg?) The other day, my gunsmith called and said it was done, but before I pick it up, he thought I should consider lengthening the forcing cone. We talked a bit and I do trust this kid, so I let him do it. I had taken some serious pattern shots before hand and went right to the range today to duplicate those pattern shots. Very nice improvement on the 930. Hardly a scientific study but the patterns were tighter right up to 40 yards - even up to 00 buckshot. On 25 shots at various ranges with various shot sizes, virtually ALL showed tighter patterns and fewer fliers. I thought there was less felt recoil, but that seems subjective. I think my Browning O/U sporting clays gun is next! Any of you guys do this? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GunCat Posted March 29, 2013 Share Posted March 29, 2013 (edited) Just got my JM Pro back from my 'smith. He did an admirable job welding the lifter and it does - as many of you said - make a remarkable difference. There is no hesitance when reloading - a smoother entry for the reloads and I don't even consider I might get bitten - HUGE improvement, (Are you listening Mossberg?) The other day, my gunsmith called and said it was done, but before I pick it up, he thought I should consider lengthening the forcing cone. We talked a bit and I do trust this kid, so I let him do it. I had taken some serious pattern shots before hand and went right to the range today to duplicate those pattern shots. Very nice improvement on the 930. Hardly a scientific study but the patterns were tighter right up to 40 yards - even up to 00 buckshot. On 25 shots at various ranges with various shot sizes, virtually ALL showed tighter patterns and fewer fliers. I thought there was less felt recoil, but that seems subjective. I think my Browning O/U sporting clays gun is next! Any of you guys do this? Many of the current generation of target guns already have the “lengthened” forcing cone area. We have a 525 Citori in the house (wife's gun) and I know it's forcing cones are already as long as then need to be. Edited March 29, 2013 by GunCat Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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