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Found 101 results

  1. Would you rather set up your bench in a large uninsulated detached garage or small basement closet? Relevant context: -I live in the mid Atlantic so temps range from 0 - 100. However, I’m hearty...not too sensitive to hot and cold. -Basement area permits bench of only 40 inches wide by 30 inches deep. -Newby 650 reloader. -Not a huge volume shooter. Reloading mostly for PF and reliability. -I have children who crawl so I’m a little paranoid about lead safety. Buying bullets that are plated or coated. Would tumble outside in any event. -Not a ton of air circulation in basement. -Good neighborhood, so theft from garage isn’t much of a concern. -Anti-Gun neighborhood, so I’d feel some anxiety if kids are over to play or someone visits with garage door up. Opsec in basement would be much stronger. I’ve changed my mind a few times and am curious what you guys think from years of accumulated wisdom!
  2. Mpx and eggleston munitions

    Hey guys. Search came up with nothing. So if I missed it and am cloning a previous post please let me know i have a mpx carbine and have about 2000 124gn eggleston projectiles. Anyone have any experience with them through a pcc? Any load data with numbers would b sweet. Wanting to use these bullets but afraid to in open so figure try through the rifle. Thanks for any help In advance. Happy turkey day!
  3. VIHTAVUORI N320 VS Titegroup

    I have been loading with titegroup and love it because of the price I shoot alot for uspsa. I am running Gallent 125's and it smokes alot. I'm wanting to know if switching to n320 is worth the additional cost vs titegroup. I've heard titegroup and coated bullets just smoke alot and that's the name of the game. I'd switch if it really does shoot cleaner and smoke less.
  4. So my wife said she was fine with me reloading. I’m about half way through studying how to set up. Normally would dig in and take months researching myself but I need to get this thing bought before she hears what reloading entails or what it costs! -Shoot limited but may go to open one day -So 9, 40 are primary objectives. Maybe 45 and 223 as well. -I prefer to “buy once cry once” -Reloading in garage -Shoot two matches a month and practice. So probably on lower side of round count for this site. Target System and expected costs XL 650- $580 Die set 9mm- $60 Strong mount- $45 Scale- $100 digital or lever? Handbook- $25 Calipers- $30 Flip tray- $30 Case loader - $580 with one extra cal. Worth it? Buy at Double Alpha? Media tumbler- $50 recommendations? Inputs Bullets Primers Brass Powder Case lube Thoughts on where to buy the system and components? Am I missing anything? Making a common pitfall? Are there Mega Black Friday sales worth waiting for? Thanks!
  5. I'm thinking I'd like to try a powder baffle to help improve the consistency of my Dillon 650 over the course of a reloading session. Any thoughts on the Uniquetek baffle vs the Prairie Dog Perfect Powder Baffle? Uniquetek Precision Powder Baffle: Prairie Dog Perfect Powder Baffle:
  6. Federal vs Winchester

    I'll be running them in my stock 3. Winchesters run with my old load for my 34 but saw somewhere online that the Federals match are in stock. Is the extra 29$ per 5k is worth it?
  7. I recently found Precision bullets and they are by far the cheapest I have found. Has anyone used them yet? I'd be running them in a glock 34 with a kkm match barrel. Thank you
  8. In an effort to speed reloading/save money, I'm considering the Mini XL 650 Case Feeder over the Dillon case feeder system. Reviews online are spotty at best. Has anyone had any real experience with this system? Can you provide pros/cons vs the hi-dollar Dillon system? Thanks in advance, and sorry if this has been covered before.
  9. Shadow 2 load VV N320

    Does anybody have a load worked up for their Shadow 2 using VV N320 powder? Also what is beat OAL and Bullet weight for a stock Shadow 2? Thanks
  10. 9mm Major Pistol Powder?

    Any suggestions for Pistol Powder for 9mm Major USPSA open division? *currently using HS-6.
  11. Any good pistol powders but HS-6? Using for USPSA open division.
  12. I'm relatively new to reloading and, unfortunately, I've had a couple of squib loads, which has made me nervous about my reloading technique. I'm using a Hornady LNL, and my setup is the following: (1) resizing die, (2) powder drop/PTX expander, (3) bullet feeder, (4) seating, (5) taper crimp. I thought I was being careful about visually checking my charges, but apparently I've missed a few. I'd like to add an extra margin of safety by adding an RCBS lockout die (or I could use a Powder Cop, but I already have the lockout die). I thought I could solve the problem by combining the seating and crimping into one die to free up a station for the lockout die, but I'm using plated bullets, and I've read that seating and crimping simultaneously isn't a great idea with plated bullets. So what do I do? I've returned to using a single stage press for now, but there's no way I can crank out the number rounds I need that way.
  13. Brass for 9 major

    I'm new to reloading and new to 9 major. I have a quick question, how specific is 9mm brass needed in reloading for 9 major? I think I've read somewhere that you can't reuse 9 major brass as often and some say because of the pressure the wouldn't reuse it at all. I've also just stumbled across +P brass which I didn't even know was a thing. Should I stick with only new brass, once fired brass, processed range brass or +P brass?
  14. Reporting in from KY

    Hey all! New to the forum but no to shooting. I have been shooting for about 30 years or so. I have been a trainer in the shooting arts for about 23 years or so. Funny that I just now decided to give competitions a try. So I decided to try out USPSA and my first match will be on May 7th if I can get everything in order by then. I'm thinking of trying out the Limited Division with a major power factor in .40, I hope. I also just started reloading as well, so I am trying to learn as much as I can at this point. I have read that this is one of the best sites for competition and reloading information so I am hoping to learn a lot and give back as soon as I am able to. I don't know if it matters but I just picked up a Springfield Armory XD(M) 5.25" Competition in .40 S&W to use in competitions. I haven't shot it yet but I'm sure it will handle nicely. Pleasure to meet everyone. Mat
  15. Scrap or keep ?

    This photo was posted in another forum. The question was to scrap or reload. Note that this was found because the user deprimed, cleaned their 9mm brass and inspected it rather than depriming on stage 1 during their progressive loading.
  16. So I want to start reloading, concern of mine is I live in an apartment. I read somewhere that it's a good idea to be in a well ventilated/open area when you send your brass through the tumbler, figured I could do that outside or at my girlfriends house. I was wondering if it's ok to do the reloading process in my bedroom? I have plenty room for a workbench, actually just built and set up a 5 1/2 foot workbench that's two feet deep for workspace. Should I be reload somewhere else other than the room I sleep in?
  17. Hello All, I'm new to open 38 and wondering which is better to reload 38 super or 38 super comp? My gun will handle both just trying to get a perspective on differences. thanks mark
  18. I understand this topic has been brought up before but ive already eliminated most of the comments people have suggested, Loading 147 gr polymer heads with N320 3.3 gr which used to work flawlessly in an M&P Pro. I now am getting about 1/5 rounds tumbling in the Shadow 2. Crimp is not removing any polymer off the heads. Tried reducing the powder. can anyone help me with this as i am stuck. Note: i would like to stick to 147 gr heads
  19. Hi gents. I'm in the process of configuring my two 550b presses (long story), and I'm wondering if the roller handle is worth the money over the stock handle? If so, why? Seems like a lot of money for an option. Thanks!
  20. I just purchased a STI Edge 40 S&W Competition Ready Pistol from Dawson. I would like to reload for USPSA Limited division and would prefer to not reinvent the wheel. What have others found to be an optimum reload for competition and accuracy? I would be interested to know what people are shooting in terms of bullet weight/brand/typd, powder mfg/type/weight, C.O.L. etc.) Thanks to everyone in advance for your advice.
  21. So I recently pick up a CK Arms Hardcore Open gun in 9mm and I'm about to start loading for it and I was wondering what, if any extra steps you take in your reloading process for 9 major? A little back story, I've been reloading 9 and 40 for a few years and my process is fairly quick and simple. For 9 it's sort, tumble, and load. Simple as that. I use a 550 so i just double check the case before I put it into the case. No Biggie. For 40 it's a little more in depth as I sort, tumble, push through size, then load it in my SDB. I also check the 1st, 5th, and every 100th round to make sure my powder bar is still set correctly. I'll be loading on my 550 and most likely I'm going to get a new quick change kit so I can keep my production and open loads separated and won't have to change everything every time. Also is a Redding competition seat die overkill? -Jim
  22. As our 1050s aged we noticed it was harder and harder to get consistent primer seating depth. We took a cue from out Ammoload and Camdex machines and developed a primer hold down for the 1050. This is very similar to the hold down in the swaging station on the 1050. It will accommodate 380, 9mm, 40 and 45. Installation and adjustment is very simple. Please see the video below for instruction. Can be used in the RL 1050 as well with modification to the diameter of the die. It will need to be turned down about .020" to work in the RL1050. Pricing is $17.50 shipped and can be purchased from our website. Click to purchase from our website.
  23. Hello, I will start my new season of IPSC. I am a newbie on reloading. I shot in minor production. I would like some informations on reloading. My goal is to be a minimum factor not more. Because like this, there will be less recoil, best gun control, faster return to target, so less time which is important for ipsc. (my wife shoot with me, and less recoil is better for her too) Im scared to load my cartridges for 125 PF. 1) because if there is a difference between my chrono record and the one on the competition, I may not pass and not being classed. 2) I was told that according to weather conditions, atmospheric pressure from one place to another, that can change the power factor? is it true ? how many this can change the power factor? In the end, I'd really like to know the smallest value of factor that I can take, without taking the risk of not passing the chrono on a competition. Finally, last question, the power factor influences really much the accuracy ? The research for the reduced recoil with light load will not going to influence so much on accuracy ? I heard that for the 9mm 124gr best power factor was 133, someone would already heard that and have some sources to prove it? sorry for my bad english, I try to do my best. Thank you for your reply. PS if needed : i shoot with cz75 sp01 shadow. bullet : 124gr LOS powder : n320 primer : sellier & bellot brass : wincester / magtech
  24. I apologize if this has already been ask. Is it possible to reload 22-250 on my Dillon RL550B? Can RCBS dies be used on this loader? I don't see that Dillon makes dies in that caliber. Thanks.
  25. Guys and gals, I am in the process of planning/constructing a case collator or feeder if that what some may call it because I like to tinker and I am also all about saving money. The question I have is after watching video after video of folk's builds is, have any of you that have made one put some type of clutch contraption on yours, and if so, how did you do it. I have only found one person so far that I have seen that has a clutch on it. Everyone else seems to be just running theirs without worrying about a hangup. I have read about one guy that put some type of sensor on his that shuts off it it detects some type of interruption. I don't know how it worked, but his was electronic. I am wanting to build just a basic case collator that is effective. I do value my time, but I also as mentioned before, like to build things like this for fun and it will be used often, so I am not worried about putting 4-6 hours in a project like this. I think in the end, if it works well and looks decent, and I haven't dropped 100.00 bucks in it, problem solved and I had a good time doing it. Thanks in advance guys. Have a safe weekend. EW
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