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Miranda

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Everything posted by Miranda

  1. I hear ballistic nylon will do that
  2. now now... we want to conjecture and guess and see how far afield we can get. ah anyway, I think YSRRacer was asking about the list... I am wondering what isn't operator error... If I write such a post, then we have your post again...with cause. so I am seeking a way to make clear that I don't care how the press found cause to balk... ever look at what die takes the most power to press? 4n2t0, I hope things are adjustable enough to get you making the ammo you need. my list was sorting out possibilities, ever consider what it would take to bend the press? I can't think up a way. and if there were an easy check, I'd test it. sure is a puzzle tho. miranda
  3. I was sitting here puzzling on this and thought here is a list of things that could directly tilt a case or some how cause this. bottom of case not square schmootz in the carrier plate lifting the brass. bent plate broken (bent or cracked) press bent ram top of ram dented or deformed detent ball or notch worn past tolerance weak detent spring shell plate advance not advancing properly something moving the shell plate during stroke die not square to press a notch on mouth of die snagging case are there more? I am thinking about the advice to tighten the lock rings of the dies with the press at the top of the stroke and with all 5 stations cased. It is a pretty simple machine. the problem should not be all this hard to find. miranda
  4. I should explain, I saw the circled spot and thought you are not using an alignment pin. I believe mine pokes out a bit more than the one photoed. the alignment looks poor... pins in place means the shell plate is the next suspect. usually the primers get bent when that gets miss-timed. k a wild guess, the detent ball has a big dent that acts like a gear. I think an alignment tool is in your future... miranda
  5. are both alignment pins out? I know some have said they use only one. miranda
  6. If I did advocate for making primers, I don't for powder. Making powder, while easier, requires enough volume that it becomes a bit more dangerous. It takes a while to get consistent. I also am wary of the result from the chemicals in a double base. from previous primer shortages, once the primers reappear, the powders get tight. Ah well, I am outta rifle powder... dingit. miranda
  7. posting to keep track of this thread... I want a collator. the simplicity of the vibra-prime is tempting and for the price I can hope the rf-100 is a good unit. (It has a good rep.) my tinkerers soul wants to get a close look at the DAA unit and the reports are all over the map. so I am not springing for a new one. I still fill by hand because I do not like shaking or rattling primers. I think I'd like a unit to have a mild hum and no other clicks or clacks. it is a challenging task to automate. miranda
  8. potential issues... the only one I can think may catch you off guard... do not go to a larger diameter bullet without lowering the powder. plated and jacketed bullets will perform differently basicly, jacketed bullets perform as a larger diameter for the same measurement as plated. and the usual disclaimer--> all else kept the same. miranda
  9. hmmmm. only because you got me thinking... grounding the press has gained you a large improvement. and if static is the cause, running the press fast generates enough static to have the problem rise again. this is what I'd do to test that idea. use alu foil because it can be placed under the hopper lid take a strip about 3/8 inch wide and have one end go into the powder up over the top of the hopper and replace the lid the other end set against a metal part of the press. that should give the static in the powder a path to lose energy/static. If static is the problem, that should get the last out. most powder has a graphite coat to fight against a static build up. I use aluminium tape for this, and I started it as a way to keep the hopper lid a bit more firmly in place. luck miranda
  10. when on the press does the adjuster for the measure bump into anything? another idea that crossed my mind.
  11. ok, my problem and that solution are not your problem. you are about to start a "how do i flipping fix this problem device" research project. your problem is filling the measuring cup. the speed of rotation can't fling powder out because the powder is supposed to be weighing on the drum and once in motion the side of the drum keeps the powder. To fling needs open space to toss the powder. because I do not know what is before you, here are some obvious ideas. look for obstructions in the intake to the measure and down in the throat look for the measure being in the correct stop the mouth of the cup should be a straight shot in there. your description is most consistant with the drum not getting to open. buuut it is possible to overshoot the opening and you may have a tooth in the gears that is jammed somehow. miranda
  12. speed does have an effect of any automatic powder dispenser. the lee auto-drum... is timed such that there is little open/dump time at the top of the stroke. If the dispenser had an over run area where the dump opened sooner and then stayed open, that would create more time in the stroke for the drop. I pulled the handle to the bottom and counted one-onethousand because it took that long to fill the 223 case. If speed of reloading is important, use a different powder drop. the gears and slides and stops were not designed to take what a 650 can pound out. I had two extenders on the drop and I like it. The auto drum came out of the rifle side of reloading, that works is often done on a single die press I loaded 223 at more than 400 RPM so the drop is not a slouch. some one here had drum with what I believe was a broken gear set and I wanted to get a hold of it and try some ideas. when I restart my loading I may order a victim to tinker. I have not had any powder cross check fail from the dispenser the weights are more consistent than with the auto-disk and the dillon (I did not test 223 dispensing, just pistol) so you can have a benefit if you can stay within design limits. miranda
  13. try a search for 650 primer and see what you get... the one item I remember is that primer compound dust is another source for problems. so clean the primer tubes with a bore snake or a patch. I do not use a vibrating primer filler or any other primer collator. my patches all had a yellow ring after swabbing out the tubes. so clean the priming system every so often, and more often should you be using a mechanical aid to fill primer tubes. ... and I think the 750 is Dillon's attempt to improve the priming system. it is likely an improvement, I just want to avoid feeling like I should replace my 650. I have been told static discharges will easily light a primer consider adding static dissipation items to your safety equipment. miranda
  14. I size my cast lead to 357 This is the biggest I can fit into a case and have it chamber. lube is carnuba, wax, and alox The FC cases seem to be required. miranda
  15. Hi ColoradoNick, yeah there are often limits on large volume orders. I suspect you can get all you can afford, the limit often has the factory production as a reason. I suspect if you contacted any bullet maker, they could find a way to supply you with the volume you seek in short order. the nest question, is more difficult to answer I screwed up my multiplication and added or lost a zero. I was pretty much pointing out that a lot of inventory can be a lot of tied up cash. A 125 Gn bullet is 56 bullets per pound 100k bullets is 1785 pounds of bullets. if something besides 125 Gn bullets are going fast, the 125s are useless inventory. Far better to have not made them. it was an attempt to point out there is little reason for MG to play inventory games. I like MG bullets... they seem to be consistent. worth the small addition? yeah. AND...I can only state that I tend to make my own bullets. so that opinion has some age on it. MG may have changed since my last purchase. I can understand not wanting to check availability. Assume the bullets are available and order. they make the inventory... miranda
  16. Hi Nolan, A few years I was at a Cabin Fever show and looking at a booth selling a CAD/CAM package... one of the features was an exploded diagram rendering facility. I did note that some one was going to need to compile the drawings to get it to explode? ( the software had layers and file orientation annotations) mostly I was thinking that some one would need to order it done even if it were easier than eating pie. Thus I still think it will be a long time before it becomes common. I once thought it was 'normal' as I had a mop that came with one.
  17. the death of drafting is what I see as the most direct reason for the lack of exploded diagrams. In a few more decades I expect better software will generate those. The folks at FA are dealing with what I think is normal Chinese QC problems. The most accurate description is "none." From what I can tell, the press looks like a good design. How FA attends to the QC issues for the users is going to be the make or break point for future sales. At this rate I may have one a lot sooner than I expected initially. As this is a new product, perhaps getting a 'problem press' back from a customer is an excellent way to evaluate both press design and manufacturing issues ... an ongoing process of improving the product? It also can be a source for parts for the very few presses that fail. miranda
  18. oh daymn! it is real! well done. Farmer has a point... "Some guy's wife pissed off at him?? "
  19. doan mattr much for the press. be careful out there. and this thread is quite funny. miranda
  20. "a disassembled grease zerk" ok... how does one do that? I know you can get a ball out of a ball point pen by careful squeezing. zerks seem a bit too big for that method. miranda
  21. that is a hard tale to hear unfold. to be clear, I believe you and think it a poor response. I pretty much decided C.S. was just stating they will not sell parts. I also came to the conclusion that the take a photo of the missing part was a way to avoid stating we have no parts. the good news is that they are sold out of presses. (none to use as parts machines.) mostly I am wondering if they will stay in the press biz. that response will make it harder to sell more. miranda
  22. The motor is an induction type. often used for box fans and small appliances. They do not have brushes to spark and while the coils can fail and spark, that problem usually causes to motor to stop. miranda
  23. ok... preventing that fire. Pretty much any aerosol-can creates an air-fuel mix that will burn. As an item of note, the propellant is often propane. (am not sure in this case.) Source of sparks? The only item involved that will absolutely spark is the switch to stop and start the motor. Other on and off 120 volt switches can. Past that there is nothing easily tested to recreate the fire. the motor has a fan so any air-fuel will get stirred. Perhaps a static spark started there. Mostly I can't see how the air-fuel got into the switch to start the flame. The CO2 extinguisher is a good idea, be careful with it in an enclosed room. Make sure you can get to fresh air. It is a good lesson about why to keep lids on powder. I use one-shot... so I am thinking apply it outside. yow. miranda
  24. what you can do. your recipe 125 gn lead conical bullet 4.5 gn hp-38 1.124 oal... you target photo will not load for me... your loading is at about the end of the book advice I have. If you think more accuracy is possible... if power factor is not an issue, try varying just the powder to 4.2 gn one change and give em a solid run. see if you notice anything. I have a very mild, most accuracy center... hp jacketed 124 gn oal 1.30 and 4.3gn hp-38 powder more powder seemed like less control. lead bullets can be a problem for accuracy in any case, miranda
  25. HesedTech covers it well. If you want to test it yourself... get a thick 9mm case like the A USA case mentioned. S&B are similar in my experience. Then repeat what the OP did. Use a lead bullet if at all possible. Slowly press the bullet and case into the FCD. Stop when you feel any resistance. If your setup is like most, this will be the removal of the bell. mark the case with a sharpie after you remove just the bell. a black case is the goal here because you will need to see where the FCD crimps the case. now do the crimp and note the next place where you get resistance. the sharpie marks should still be on the top of the case, a ring near the base of the bullet and usually, a ring near the bottom of the case. With my lead bullets, it was rare the bullet did not fall out of the case. Try that test. If you used .356 or larger lead base bullet you will see the same result I had. Oooooof when you can't figure out why you have loose bullets in your cases, you start checking every little thing to sort out what is causing the problem. miranda
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