kimberacp

Barnhart grips!!

Modify the mag catch and use STI magazines.

BTW, Rich is still in business!

ChuckS.... is correct! Spot weld a tab ontop of the ledge of the mag catch, mig welder. Just a tab. File flat. Remove the catch, insert the STI tube and u can see how the notch hole is taller, than the para notch hole. By welding a spot and filing it flat, all you are doing is rising the contact point to hold the mag. Para tubes notch hole can be filed upward to match the same slot as STI tubes. Simply fix. But do weld on a spare catch. So you have two. Just in case.

When i was using TG, 180 Zero, 1.170 oal, 4.6 TG. From a 5" gun. 72stick, is correct. TG has too much of a bark, to it. Too hot! I now use WST, 5.5 gr. Much better recoil.

Having the 20x scope is good to have but when you look at the hammer and sear through the scope, the parts are not in the frame. What really matters is the engagement of the parts when they are in the frame. So, by using a blue shapie as described earlier, that will clearly show how the points are contacting. Is there enough contact? Does it favor one hook more than the other? Good luck

Busy or not, the builder should put TOP priority on fixing it and getting it back quickly! Thats a joke to pay top dollar, the trigger doesn't even work!! Damn! This is custom work?????

Mark the sear with a blue shapie, assemble the trigger set. With or without the slide, dry fire . Without the slide , drop the hammer on your thumb, so as not to hit the frame. 10 times or so. Remove the sear, now look and see how the hooks are swiping on the sear face? Do this any time you replace or drop in any trigger parts. Buying a trigger package, dropping it in, does not guarantee your getting equal contact from both hooks on the sear! How do you know for sure? You don't...until you can verify it. Even a kit from Brazos. You need to "see", there is equal contact from both hooks! If , your not... no bueno. Especially, with a trigger pull under two pounds. When cleaning the lower portion, mark the sear with blue sharpie, assemble. So, the next time you clean and remove the sear, you can see if there are any changes in the contact points! Thanks, to " powder finger"! JMO

I tried the 200s from zero. Didnt care for them. Were not as accurate as I expected at 25 yds, considering it is a heavier bullet going at a slower velocity for a 170 PF. I used 4.8 WST @ 1.165 OAL. Using a 11 lb spring, had no issues with the reliability. FWIW, the 180 gr bullet is better suited for the 40 case.

no difference between the 2011 and 1911

send it back!

you can sand down the base of the sight to lower it. Dawson has a video, where he does exactly that, when fitting the front sights.

as much as it is important to use high quality parts, as you are. what makes the trigger job a "trigger job", is the contact area between the sear face and hammer hooks! along with everything else that contributes that.

IF...the magazine can wiggle in the frame and there is not enough of the ledge from the magazine catch fully engaged into the magazine body notch, along with the downward pressure from the bullets hitting up against the slide, this will push the magazine to fall out. I would test this by inserting a full magazine into the frame, wiggle it by grasping the bottom. Try to pull it out. With the slide on the gun and try it without the slide on. One last thought would be to try a stiffer magazine catch spring. It could be the recoil of the gun with a light spring, is not staying in place, combine with not enough engagement from the magazine catch ledge into the magazine body notch, will let the magazine to drop out. good luck

the .180 sight is 10-12 clicks out because it is not flush with the top of the slide. if it were... it probably wouldn't not be that many clicks out.