Jeff Phillips

Absolutely

I have used the now defunct master-blaster bullets which were a polymer coated bullet. That type of coating worked well, but left a lot of residue in the barrel. recently I have run several thousand bayou bullets. They ran well; however, they seemed to have some slight dimensional inconsistencies which forced me to case guage every round.

That is my understanding as well, but until the manufacturer says that on record, I still approach it with a little caution.

Or ball bungies

Another benefit to a 7' high wall made from 2x2's is that you have the ability to leave a vertical 2x2 stub protruding from the top which gives you a convient place to fasten the tops of adjacent walls together,

One labeling trick I discovered is to simply peel off the labels from the powder cans, cut them to size, and stick them to the powder hoppers. Makes identification a snap.

One thing that helped me early on is Was to define the what the trigger pull cycle looked like. Here is what I mean: usually when people talk about pulling the trigger the cycle goes prep, break, then reset. What I found works better is to think of it as break, reset, prep. By making the prep the last step in the cycle, I was able to train my self to minimize the chances of skipping the prep step. As you get faster the swell between prep and break goes almost to zero, but the simple mindset of a ending with the prep the. Allows you to put more attention on the brake which is what has the most influence on your accuracy. seems goofy, but it works.

I used to run a standard gas block, full mass rainier arms bolt/carrier, and standard carbine buffer with a rifle length gas system. last year I went all JP with the setup. Adjustable gas block, LMOS carrier, enhanced bolt, and silent captured recoil spring. The setup is absolutely amazing for recoil reduction and the JP carrier is super easy to clean. the one thing about running the rifle length gas system is that I am running the adjustable gas block nearly wide open. In my case, I don't think the adjustable block makes any difference.

I have 3 KKM barreled guns. Two in .45 and one in .355. They are my favorite and extremely accurate. They can be tight, but I have found the EGW case guage matches with them almost perfectly.

close, but more like this https://www.amazon.com/Never-Seez-NSBT-8-Regular-Anti-Seize-Compound/dp/B000KZCU26 it says it has copper particles, but it is a dark gray color in the can. So far I haven't noticed any staining, but then I'm not too particular about it anyway as the brass brush I use for cleanup typically leaves a light gold color on the brake anyway. i have put it on the outside of the brake. I'm still experimenting with how much to use and am going fairly light as I don't want a gelatinous glob of goo inside the suppressor. i have done two range trips so far, and one light cleaning and am pleased, especially considering the alternative.

Agreed, the last thing you want is the goofy extra weight swinging around during a stage, or worse yet actually RINGING...... speaking from experience it kinda throws off your groove. ....or with my luck I'd put it in my back pocket and fall on it but then, the whole thing is slightly academic.....it's a company phone and that's what IT departments are for! :-)

I have shot 10's of thousands of Winchester primers without a single problem,but one recent quirk in the last couple of years is a slight dimensional difference between them and the CCI's. not enough to affect loading, but CCI LP run fine through a vibra-prime and WIN LP will not. At least with my specific one. i know this is more of a powder thread, but because primers are getting mentioned it is worth noting that there are other considerations in primer choice besides just powder/primer performance.

I just grabbed a can of the same stuff we use at work on flanges and bolts. Looks like it is called Bostik Never-Seez regular grade

Sheared a lug off of a bolt. It was one of the lugs next to the extractor. Don't recall if it was above or below. The failure wasn't match ending as it ran with the missing lug, but the broken lug got jammed in the barrel extension which ended the stage as the rifle couldn't go into battery.

So I have been having an awful time with my Surefire Socom 556SB sticking on the muzzle brake after shooting sessions. I'm not talking about a little resistance here, seriously stuck! I called Surefire and they had no real suggestions to offer. I had an epiphany in my shop the other day and grabbed a can of anti-seize, applied a light coating to the muzzle brake, and my problem has been solved. The stuff is rated for 1,800 degrees, so it should handle the temperature. Hopefully this suggestion may help someone else with a similar problem.