RodeoClown

that's really helpful, thanks to all responders!

I keep hearing about the tapering of the return spring carrier ... Does anybody maybe have a picture of such a tapered return spring carrier, or could maybe explain where one tapers it? Much appreciated.

This is what I use ... It was pretty easy to make, fits into the bottom of the tool box I keep my revolvers in, and holds 50 moonclips.

+1 for the Speedsec holster. I use it both for both my 686 and 627 and need to make no adjustments whatsoever. If locked it definitely won't fall out, if unlocked it should pass the 'hop test'. I've tried it several times and the gun never fell out. Not that I'm at the level of shooting where having the fastest holster makes a difference, but I seem to spend an inordinate amount of time trying to figure out what the best equipment is and I would bet the Speed Sec the fastest holster on the market. I just couldn't see how one could make a holster that has any less retention and still be secure.

I bobbed the hammer on mine and I didn't find it hurt reliability.

I'm using a Speedsec/Extreme holster for my 686, and I think it's great! It's fast, adjustable in all directions and you could also use it for any N-frame revolver.

Nice! How are you shooting with it? Do you find the extra barrel length makes a considerable difference in accuracy?

I like the idea of the case mouth deburring tool. I assume that Brownell's sells those. Also, as I don't own a dremel, maybe this is the time to get one. What dremel bit is that?

I'm going to order that Brownell's tool that haras suggested. Is it pretty straigtforward as to how to champfer a cylinder or are there things I should specifically watch out for?

Thanks everybody for their input! Gary, as to the gun, it's brand new, I picked it up and shot it for the first time yesterday (The good news is at least it shot where it was supposed to. The last 627 I bought didn't even do that). Also, I don't think it's the moonclips, they're Hearthco. The bullets are 158gr jacketed RN Berry's and the brass is Remington. Dave personally told me that Remington is the best brass along with Federal for his moon clips. Also, I've been using the exact same combination on my 686 and it works perfectly. Like you suggested, I cleaned out the cylinder with a chamber brush mounted on a drill, and it took off the burr somewhat. Now they're dropping in, even though not quite as smoothly as on my 686. I'd like to now go the champfering route, I think that should take care of the rest of the issue. I've read on this forum that people have widely varying opinions as to how much to champfer and what tools to use. My sense is better too little than too much. What do you guys (and girls) think? What tool to use and how to best do it?

I just got a 627 today, but when I tried to drop in a moon clip, it wouldn't go in smoothly. I checked the charge holes individually, and on a couple of them there must be some kind of burr because I have a hard time getting the bullet in and out. I figured rather than starting to file around on the charge hole, maybe I should invest in a champfering tool from Brownells and champfer the holes. But then, since on six of the eight holes the bullets do drop in, maybe I should just take a fine file and file the edge of the remaining two holes to make the bullet go in smoothly as it seems the charge holes are already champfered from the factory, but only slightly. What to do? Also, if you guys feel I should go for the champfering option, could you let me know how to champfer the holes and what tools to buy? I have a couple of other revolvers so I figure it could be worth the investment. Thanks.

Again, thanks everybody for their input. Today, I spoke to customer service at S&W and they will send me a regular sized hand. My hand was 90 thousands, the hand they will send me is 94 thousands, an oversized hand is 98 thousands. They told me that a regular sized hand should do the job. Based on what I read, I also checked the extractor star, but it doesn't seem to have too much wear on it, so I have a feeling that just fitting the hand should do it. I'll let you guys know what happens when I get it back. Again, thanks everybody.

Everybody thanks for their input! I think I'd like to try the above suggestion. I measured the thickness of the hand (90 thousands), will call S&W tomorrow, and order a hand just a little bit thicker. Also, I tested several of my revolvers in SA mode and all of them were late on several charge holes, though not all of them. I also tried to understand how timing works, so I watched the hand with the side plate off as I pulled the trigger. It seems as the hand pushes the ratchet up, it gets pushed to the right against the right side of the window frame. So, if I had a slightly thicker hand, it would push the cylinder over just a little bit quicker putting the gun back into timing. Did I understand that right? But on the other hand, if the hand were too thick it would start hanging up on the ratchet, right? Also, somebody mentioned something about broken springs. The way I understand it from watching the hand, there are no springs involved in the timing of the gun. Or are there? Again, thanks for all the input.

I didn't do too well on the Smith and Wesson website (They didn't accept my e-mail address, so I couldn't become a member), so I'm back here ... I'd like to give it a try to time the gun myself. It seems a hand costs less than fifteen dollars, so even if I mess it up a couple of times, at leastif it happens again, I'll know how to fix it. I've done my action job myself, so I have a little bit of an idea of what goes on inside a revolver. Might somebody be willing to walk me through as to what to do?

Thanks for the reply! I did that. But the problem I had before still remains: When I pull the trigger slowly, there's supposed to be that second click, meaning the cylnder stop is engaged, and on most charge holes it's not there. When the hammer falls, the cylinder still turns just that extra bit before engaging. I think that's how part of the bullet hit the forcing cone and splattered back at me. What should I do now?