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JDMahan

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    John Mahan

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  1. Sorry, that one is in regular use. I just stopped shooting and loading revolvers.
  2. When I want to reuse bullets, I use the kinetic type
  3. For minor, and for general practice and range use, i load them until cracked or lost. For major, or important comps, I only use 1-2 fired. I do gauge all loads as I work
  4. If you were closer to me (Colorado) I would gladly trade 1-2 thou. Spp I have, Srp I'm getting low on.
  5. 9mm or 38? I have a 38 I'm not using.
  6. Just grasping here, but since you said old cases, several years ago there was a run of Winchester 9mm cases with off-center primer holes. They were especially incompatible with Win. Primers. More recently, S & B 38 special cases have the same issue. Keep us posted...
  7. That's a tough one, since the primer is correctly oriented going forward. You might check to make sure your shell plate is tight enough to hold the case in a consistently proper location. I had an issue with the little 'paperclip' spring; sometimes the case wouldn't be held all the way back in proper location. I never got any upside down, but a couple sideways, and some kind of deformed from being slightly off center. Hope this helps
  8. One other reason to buy new brass: Some moonclips work best (or only work) with certain headstamp. If/when you get into revolvers for competition, you want a good supply of the headstamp(s) that function with your moonclip/gun combo John
  9. I'm sure Smith & Wesson will treat you right. Make sure to report back with follow-up. John
  10. This is a good point. It was noticeable, usually just on one side of the case. John
  11. I second the make-up sponges, and also the make-up removal pads. Dirt cheap (I steal mine from my daughter), and handy sizes. Bullseye shooters mix their own brew (generically "Ed's Red) http://www.gunsandgunsmiths.com/eds-red/ Folks swear by it. John
  12. Hey: Got so excited ordering .38 sp brass, I forgot to answer the op's question. In Bullseye, it's fairly common to buy new brass (usually Starline) at the start of each season, for long line loads (50 yards slowfire) matches. This then goes in the bucket for shortine (25 yards timed and rapid fire), and then into the practice bin. These are very light loads, so the brass lasts forever, but the hardcore guys are looking for sub 2" groups at 50yrds. (Us hackers are happy with 3" groups, so pretty much any brass will do if the gun is sound) This refers to (mostly) .45; that's what all the cool kids shoot. John
  13. Thanks for this!! I can get all the 9, 40, and 45 I want, but nobody shoots .38 (more importantly, they don't leave it laying around), Placing order... Thanks again John
  14. I don't know if it is relevant, but I had a similar situation with my 625. Kept track of moonclips, headstamp, etc., no common thread. HOWEVER, it seemed to happen with light loads and long shooting sessions. Best I could figure, the light loads didn't expand enough, and I got fouling that (slightly, almost imperceptibly) impeded chambering. So the firing pin strike just finished the chambering. The 'light strikes' fired on second attempt. I now just brush the chambers (dry) when I'm shooting high round counts of light loads, and I haven't had a recurrence. Hope it helps, if it does thanks goes to the guy shooting a 686+ that told me about his similar issues. John
  15. Hey, you're close to me, I'm in Highlands Ranch. I don't think I could discern a .02g difference on my beam scale; I usually throw 10 and average. After working up (3 8 & 3.9), and down, 3.6, I think I've settled on 3.7, 1.12oal. Runs perfect, and very accurate. As a bonus, my 2 hks really likes this load too. Thanks for the input.
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