Ajohnson15

Shouldn’t be a length issue, guide rod seat length to the end of the recoil spring channel in the slide will match the same length as a 5inch 1911. Diameter of the guide rod is too small though (it’ll work but I personally prefer a tighter spring fit). Again really just need someone to make a guide rod that is stepped up before the seat for a short distance to better accommodate the round wire 1911 springs and then stepped down at the rest of the length to the front at the oem component diameter so the slide doesn’t have to be drilled out. Alternately you could just 3d print - 1.2”-1.75” long .330”ish diameter sleeve and attempt to press it on to your existing guide rod down to the base. Probably would work, (might use an adhesive in addition to the press fit). Probably cheaper than getting another tungsten made.

Eh, I usually just use like a brownells TCE or flush out after a session to just knock most of the crap out without fully removing and can’t say I’ve ever gotten it built up enough to need to actually remove extractor prior spring replacement interval. Running N320 for my reloads which seems to help.

Extractor will last a good 50k, spring might could use the occasional replacement every 10 or 20 though.

Cerakoted aluminum frame that’s not anodized even? Sounds like a cool sub 10k gun before fatigue cracks start to propagate

Na, needs a stepped up diameter section in the rear, that one is just a tungsten version of the standard one.

Should have been a compact railed module shown at some point in time. Not released, but obviously the part does exist.

Man, I’ve used the frames as literal hammers on more than a few occasions, that’s kinda impressive, have a picture? I probably have a spare or two somewhere

Someone really aught to just make a steel guide rod that’s ~.325 for the about 1.2 inches ahead of the spring seat and .240 the rest of the length to facilitate standard government length 1911 round wire recoil springs without boring the slide. Really the best upgrade is a 9lbs.

I mean publicly there’s been 3 different modules shown.

Interesting, actually bent or did you just dent the metal?

It’s 11 lbs.

Just looks that way, really just brought the standard front profile of a 1911 safety a in uniform amount, and added some material on the top to engage with slide still when locked. Slide being a bit wider overall would also require some compensation.

I mean if a shop wants the spec. It’s not all the different from a 1911. Might know a guy who would be happy to help.

Removing the little finger helps prevents eventual sear spring degradation. Otherwise they usually need retuned or would in some cases need replaced around 10-12kish. Not really a big deal, but did show up in lifetime, finger removal prevents it from occurring (finger on most sear springs will lightly graze the chassis during cycling which was the source)

It's like a 1911, but just reversible. Same procedure. Just lightly turn the lock key while sliding it in until it finds the groove. Once you find the groove, let go of the catch and continue to turn the key lightly until the catch snaps into position